Walk into any vintage shop or scroll through a "Stranger Things" mood board and you’ll see it immediately. That specific, aggressive vibrance. People think they know the era because they’ve seen a few photos of Madonna or a neon-drenched aerobic video, but the reality of 1980s hair and makeup was way more nuanced than just "big and bright." It was actually a decade of total structural rebellion.
The 1970s were about being a "natural woman." Think Farrah Fawcett’s soft feathers or the "no-makeup" makeup look of the disco era’s daytime hours. Then, the 80s hit like a freight train. Suddenly, looking "natural" was the last thing anyone wanted. It was about artifice. It was about power. If you weren't taking up physical space with your silhouette, you were doing it wrong.
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Honestly, the sheer amount of aerosol used between 1980 and 1989 probably kept several chemical companies in business single-handedly. But there’s a reason for it. This wasn't just vanity; it was a visual language for a world that was becoming increasingly corporate, digital, and loud.
The Architecture of 1980s Hair and Makeup
If we’re going to talk about the actual mechanics of the look, we have to start with the "Wall of Sound" equivalent for hair. It’s the perm. But not just any perm—the spiral perm.
For most of the decade, the goal was height. You’ve probably heard the term "mall bangs." This wasn't just a style; it was an engineering feat. To get that gravity-defying swoop, women (and plenty of men) used a technique called backcombing, or "teasing." You take a fine-tooth comb, pull a section of hair taut, and brush it toward the scalp until it forms a structural mat of tangles. Then, you douse it in Aqua Net.
It felt like straw. It looked like a cloud.
The Mullet and the Shag
It’s easy to joke about the mullet now. The "business in the front, party in the back" mantra has become a meme, but in the mid-80s, it was the height of gender-bending cool. Look at Joan Jett. Look at Pat Benatar. These women used short, spiky crowns to project an image that was distinctly tough. This wasn't the soft femininity of the past. It was jagged.
The crimping iron was another essential tool. Invented in the 70s by Geri Cusenza (co-founder of Sebastian Professional), it didn't really explode until the 80s. It added a zig-zag texture that made hair look twice as thick. If you had thin hair in 1984, you were basically invisible. Volume was the only currency that mattered.
Why the Makeup Was "Too Much" (On Purpose)
When people try to recreate 1980s hair and makeup today, they usually make the mistake of being too neat. The real 80s look was messy. It was applied with a heavy hand because it was designed to be seen under the harsh, flickering lights of a nightclub or the low-resolution glow of a CRT television.
Color theory went out the window. The rule was: "Yes."
- Eyeshadow: You didn't just pick one color. You used three. Electric blue on the lid, hot pink in the crease, and maybe a shimmering gold up to the brow bone. Brands like Maybelline and Revlon started pumping out palettes that looked like a box of highlighters.
- The "Draping" Technique: We call it contouring now, but back then, Way Bandy—one of the first celebrity makeup artists—popularized "draping." This involved using vibrant blush to follow the structure of the cheekbones, often blending it all the way up into the temples and even onto the eyelids. It created a sharp, angular mask of color.
- Lips: If the eyes were loud, the lips had to be louder. We’re talking fuchsia, fire-engine red, or even frosted metallics. Wet n Wild became a staple for teenagers because their lipsticks were cheap and the pigment was undeniably intense.
The Power Brow
We can't talk about this era without mentioning Brooke Shields. Her 1980 Calvin Klein ads changed everything. Before her, the 70s had favored thin, plucked brows. Suddenly, everyone threw away their tweezers. The "Power Brow" was thick, bushy, and often brushed upward with clear mascara or hairspray to look even more imposing. It was the facial equivalent of the shoulder pad. It said, "I am here, and I am taking up space."
The Counter-Culture: Goth and New Romanticism
While the "mainstream" 80s look was neon and bouncy, there was a darker side that was arguably more influential on modern fashion. The Goth subculture emerged from the UK post-punk scene. Think Robert Smith of The Cure or Siouxsie Sioux.
Their version of 1980s hair and makeup was a rejection of the mall culture. They used white face powder to look cadaverous. They used thick, smeared black eyeliner. Their hair wasn't teased into a neat "mall bang"—it was "ratty." It was birds-nest chic.
Then you had the New Romantics. This was the dandy look. Boy George and Adam Ant. They wore lace, ruffles, and makeup that was arguably more intricate than what most women were wearing. It was theatrical. It was a costume you wore to buy groceries. This era proved that makeup wasn't just for "beautifying"—it was for world-building.
The Professional Shift: The Working Girl Look
By the late 80s, the "Working Girl" aesthetic (named after the 1988 Melanie Griffith film) started to take over. This was the corporate version of 80s excess. The hair stayed big, but it became more "finished." The makeup shifted toward "power neutrals"—deep browns, terracottas, and brick reds.
This was the era of the "Power Suit." Women were entering the workforce in record numbers, and they used their appearance as armor. The makeup became matte. Dewy skin was out; a flat, powdered finish was in. It looked expensive. It looked serious.
Realities vs. Misconceptions
One of the biggest lies told by modern costume parties is that everyone looked like a neon disco ball. They didn't.
If you look at real high school yearbooks from 1985, you see a lot of "crunchy" hair and poorly blended blue eyeshadow. It wasn't always glamorous. It was experimental. People were trying to figure out how to use these new, high-pigment products. There were no YouTube tutorials. You learned from Seventeen magazine or by watching MTV and hoping you could replicate Cyndi Lauper’s eyeliner before your mom saw you.
Another nuance: the 80s were the first decade where "fitness" became a massive aesthetic influence. The "sweaty" look—shiny skin, headbands, and messy side-ponytails—was actually a fashion choice. It was the birth of athleisure.
How to Actually Reference the 80s Today
If you want to bring 1980s hair and makeup into the 2020s without looking like you’re wearing a Halloween costume, you have to pick one element and dial the rest back.
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- The Modern Shag: The "wolf cut" or "mullet lite" is everywhere right now. It uses the choppy layers of the 80s but keeps the texture soft rather than hairsprayed into a helmet.
- Blush Draping: Instead of using hot pink, try a soft terracotta or peach. Apply it high on the cheekbones and blend toward the temples. It gives an instant lift to the face.
- The Statement Brow: This never really went away. Keeping your brows full and slightly "undone" is the most direct link we have to 1980s beauty standards.
- Blue Liner: Instead of a full lid of electric blue, try a navy or cobalt wing. It pops against the skin but feels intentional and sophisticated.
The 1980s were about the death of "less is more." It was the decade of "more is more." While we might not be heading back to the days of four-inch-thick hairspray shells, the spirit of the era—that total fearlessness with color and shape—is exactly what's missing from the overly filtered, "clean girl" aesthetic of recent years.
Actionable Takeaways for Your Look
- Audit your hair products: To get 80s-style volume without the damage, look for "dry volume sprays" rather than traditional heavy-hold hairsprays. They provide grit and lift without the "crunch."
- Embrace the matte: If you’re tired of the "glass skin" trend, try a velvet-finish foundation and a setting powder. It’s a nod to the late-80s corporate look and photographed much better in harsh lighting.
- Layer your blush: Start with a cream blush for a base and top it with a powder blush in a slightly brighter shade. This mimics the "draping" effect while staying wearable for a 9-to-5 environment.
- Invest in a wide-tooth comb: If you’re going for big hair, never brush out your curls with a fine brush—it leads to frizz. A wide-tooth comb preserves the "clumps" of hair that give that 80s structural look.
The decade wasn't just a lapse in judgment. It was a period of intense creativity where the face and hair were treated as a canvas for identity. Whether you loved the neon or the goth-black, you can't deny that people were actually having fun with their reflection. That's a lesson worth taking into any decade.