Ever looked at a pair of skates and wondered why someone chopped a wheel off? It looks wrong. Seriously. For decades, the four-wheel inline setup was the undisputed king of the pavement, but then the 3 wheel roller skates—or "triskates"—showed up and basically flipped the script on what we thought we knew about physics and asphalt.
You’ve probably seen them. Those massive wheels that look like they belong on a small tractor rather than a boot.
The first time I saw someone flying down a boardwalk on 125mm wheels, I thought they were asking for a broken ankle. It looks unstable. It looks terrifyingly high. But then you try them. The weirdest thing happens: you realize that having fewer wheels actually makes you faster, more agile, and surprisingly, more comfortable on the garbage-quality pavement most of us have to deal with. It’s a paradox.
The Big Secret of Frame Length
People focus on the wheels, but the frame is the real hero here. In a traditional four-wheel setup (the "flat" 4x80mm or 4x90mm), the frame has to be long enough to accommodate all four wheels in a row. This creates a long wheelbase. It's stable, sure, but it turns like a bus.
3 wheel roller skates cheat. Because there’s no wheel in the middle, the center of gravity sits right over the middle wheel, and the overall frame length can be much shorter. This is why a 3x110mm setup can actually have a shorter frame than a 4x80mm setup. You get the speed of a giant wheel with the turning radius of a hockey skate. It’s genuinely a "best of both worlds" situation that felt impossible until brands like Powerslide started pushing the Trinity mounting system and big-wheel technology around 2015.
Bill Stoppard, a legend in the urban skating world, has been shouting about this for years. He’s right. When you’re weaving through pedestrians or trying to avoid a rogue pothole, that shorter wheelbase is the difference between a smooth pivot and a total wipeout.
Those Giant Wheels Aren't Just for Show
Let's talk about the 110mm and 125mm elephants in the room. Why go so big?
It’s about roll-over.
Imagine a tiny pebble. To a 72mm wheel, that pebble is a mountain. It hits it, stops dead, and sends you flying. Now, imagine that same pebble against a 125mm wheel. The wheel barely notices. It rolls right over the top. This makes 3 wheel roller skates the ultimate "bad pavement" tool. If you live in a city where the sidewalk looks like a war zone, triskates are essentially your monster truck.
There is a trade-off, though. You are higher off the ground. This means your leverage is different, and your ankles have to work harder to keep the skate from "flopping" inward or outward. If you’re a total beginner with weak stabilizer muscles, jumping straight onto 125s is a recipe for frustration. Most experts suggest starting on 100mm or 110mm wheels if you're making the jump from four wheels.
Weight Matters (But Not Why You Think)
Losing a wheel saves weight. That’s basic math. Less hardware, fewer bearings, less urethane. But the real benefit isn't just the grams you're saving. It's the friction.
Every wheel on the ground creates rolling resistance. By moving from four points of contact to three, you’re literally reducing the drag holding you back. This is why marathon skaters have almost entirely migrated to the 3x125mm setup. It maintains speed with significantly less effort. You push, you glide, and you just... keep going. It feels like cheating.
The "Middle Wheel" Pivot Point
In a 4-wheel skate, you’re balancing on a flat bridge. To turn, you have to lift the front or back wheels slightly or force the urethane to slide. With 3 wheel roller skates, the middle wheel acts as a natural pivot point.
Think about it like this:
- Front Wheel: Guides the direction.
- Middle Wheel: The axis of rotation.
- Back Wheel: The powerhouse for the push.
This setup makes "swizzles" and crossovers feel much more fluid. You can lean into a carve with a level of aggression that feels sketchier on four wheels. It’s kooky how much more "connected" you feel to the center of your foot.
However—and this is a big however—stability at extreme speeds can be an issue. Downhill longboard-style skating often still favors 4-wheel setups or even 5-wheel downhill frames because that extra-long wheelbase prevents "speed wobbles." If you plan on bombing a 40mph mountain pass, maybe stick to your long frames. For everything else? The three-wheel setup wins.
Reality Check: The Learning Curve
I won't lie to you and say it's easy. The first time you stand up on 110s, you feel like you’re on stilts. Your center of gravity is probably two inches higher than you're used to.
You will feel it in your shins. You'll feel it in your arches.
The leverage you have over the edge of the wheel is increased, which means if your technique is sloppy, triskates will punish you. You have to be precise with your "center edge." If you have a habit of pronating (collapsing your ankles inward), 3 wheel roller skates will amplify that mistake. It forces you to become a better skater. Is that a bug or a feature? Honestly, it depends on how much you like practicing your form.
Choosing Your Weapon: 100, 110, or 125?
Not all triskates are the same. Picking the right wheel size is basically choosing your character class in an RPG.
The 100mm Setup: This is the "Goldilocks" zone for people coming from 80mm wheels. It’s low enough that you don't feel like you're walking on clouds, but big enough to feel the speed boost. Great for urban commuting.
The 110mm Setup: This is the industry standard now. Most high-end freeskates, like the Rollerblade Twister or the Powerslide Next, ship with 110s. It’s the perfect balance of "I can go really fast" and "I can still jump off a curb without dying."
The 125mm Setup: This is for the speed demons. Marathons, long-distance trail skating, and pure adrenaline. It’s hard to accelerate—you'll feel like you're pushing through molasses for the first three strides—but once you hit top speed, you’re a freight train.
Hardware to Look For
If you’re shopping, don't just buy the first pair you see on a random marketplace. Look at the frame mounting.
The "165mm" mount is the old school standard. It works. But the "Trinity" mount (a three-point system) is arguably better for 3 wheel roller skates because it drops the boot lower between the wheels. This offsets that "high stilt" feeling. It literally brings your foot closer to the ground, which gives you more control.
🔗 Read more: Reebok Answer 4: Why Allen Iverson’s Best Sneaker Still Matters
Also, check the bearings. Big wheels take longer to get up to speed, but they hold momentum. You want high-quality bearings (ILQ-9 or similar) to ensure that once you get those big chunks of urethane moving, they stay moving.
What People Get Wrong About Triskates
The biggest myth is that they are "for experts only."
That’s nonsense.
A beginner can learn on 3 wheel roller skates just fine, provided they don't go straight to a 125mm racing setup. In fact, learning on a 3x100mm setup might be better for some because it teaches proper ankle alignment from day one. You can't "fake" good form on big wheels.
Another misconception is that they're "unstable." They aren't unstable; they're just more sensitive. It’s like the difference between driving a family sedan and a sports car. The sports car isn't "unstable," it just reacts to every twitch of the steering wheel. That’s what a triskate does for your feet.
Maintenance and the "3-Wheel Tax"
Here is the annoying part: Rotating your wheels is different. With four wheels, you have a specific pattern to ensure even wear. With three, it’s a bit more chaotic. You’ll find the front and back wheels wear down much faster than the middle one because of how most people push and brake.
You have to be diligent. If you let that middle wheel stay pristine while the others grind down, you’ll end up with a "natural rocker" that makes the skate feel even more squirrelly.
Also, big wheels are expensive. Replacing three 125mm wheels often costs more than replacing four 80mm wheels. Urethane isn't cheap, and the high-quality stuff used in big wheels (like Undercover or MPC brands) can bite into your wallet.
Actionable Steps for the Switch
If you're ready to ditch the fourth wheel, don't just wing it.
- Check your boot compatibility. If you have a removable frame, you might not need new boots. Many brands sell 3-wheel frames that fit standard 165mm or 195mm mounting points.
- Start with 110mm. It is the sweet spot. Going to 125mm immediately is often a shock to the system that turns people off the tech.
- Focus on "The Click." When you're on triskates, listen for the sound of your wheels. Because there are fewer of them, you can really hear when you're putting a clean edge down.
- Upgrade your socks. Serious. With the extra leverage and vibration from big wheels, cheap gym socks will lead to blisters. Get some thin, moisture-wicking skate socks (like those from MyFit or Rollerblade).
- Adjust your braking. If you use a heel brake, know that most triskate frames don't come with one attached. You’ll have to learn the T-stop or the plow stop. If you must have a heel brake, ensure the frame you buy is compatible with an aftermarket one like the Powerslide HABS (Height Adjustable Brake System).
Triskates aren't just a fad; they are a fundamental shift in how we move on eight (or six) wheels. They’ve made skating in cities fun again by turning cracked pavement into a playground. If you haven't tried them yet, you’re basically working twice as hard to go half as fast.