You find a crisp, small-head Benjamin Franklin staring back at you from an old envelope or the back of a drawer. It looks weird. The portrait is tiny compared to the giant, off-center faces we see today. It lacks that bright blue 3D security ribbon. Your first instinct might be to wonder if the bank will even take it. Your second instinct? Maybe this thing is a goldmine.
Honestly, the answer to are old hundred dollar bills worth anything usually falls into two camps: it’s either worth exactly one hundred dollars, or it’s worth a small fortune. There isn't much middle ground.
Most people assume age equals value. In the world of numismatics—that’s the fancy word for coin and currency collecting—age is actually one of the least important factors. Rarity and condition run the show. If you have a beat-up $100 bill from 1985, I hate to break it to you, but it’s probably just worth a steak dinner and some change. But if you’ve got a "Gold Certificate" from 1928? Now we’re talking.
The Reality of the "Small Head" Benjamins
The most common "old" bills people find are from the series years 1969 through 1993. These are the classic small-portrait notes. Because the U.S. government has never officially demonetized its currency, these are still legal tender. You can walk into a grocery store and buy $100 worth of eggs with a bill from 1977.
But should you?
Probably. For the vast majority of these notes, collectors just aren't interested. Millions upon millions of them were printed. Unless the bill is in "uncirculated" condition—meaning it looks like it was printed five minutes ago with zero creases, sharp corners, and original paper crispness—it’s just a hundred bucks. Collectors use a 70-point scale (the Sheldon Scale) to grade these. A bill that has been in a wallet for a week usually drops to a grade that makes it face-value only.
However, there is a catch. You need to look at the serial numbers.
✨ Don't miss: Why Being a Friend of Dorothy Still Matters
Why Serial Numbers Matter More Than the Date
When asking are old hundred dollar bills worth anything, you have to stop looking at Benjamin Franklin’s face and start looking at the green numbers in the corners. This is where the real money hides. Collectors go nuts for "fancy serial numbers."
Think about "ladders." A ladder is 12345678. If you have that, you aren't holding $100; you're holding thousands. Then there are "solids," where every digit is the same, like 88888888. Even "radars," which read the same forward and backward (like 42900924), carry a premium.
I once saw a 1988 series $100 bill sell for over $2,000. Why? It wasn't because it was old. It was because the serial number was low—00000005. The lower the number, the higher the heartbeat of a collector. Anything under 100 is a massive find.
Identifying Rare Series and Seal Colors
Before the 1990s, the U.S. printed money that looked a bit different. If the seal on the right side of the bill isn't green, you’ve hit the jackpot.
- Gold Certificates (Yellow/Gold Seal): These were printed back when you could actually trade your paper money for physical gold coins. The 1928 series is the big one here. Even in "meh" condition, these are worth significantly more than $100.
- Silver Certificates (Blue Seal): While $1 and $5 silver certificates are common, $100 versions are much rarer.
- United States Notes (Red Seal): These have a bright red seal and serial numbers. They were issued directly by the Treasury rather than the Federal Reserve. A 1966 Red Seal $100 bill is a classic collector's item.
The 1928 and 1934 series are generally the "cutoff" for what most hobbyists consider truly vintage. If you have a 1934 $100 bill, even with a green seal, it might carry a premium of 10% to 30% over face value just because they are becoming harder to find in bank vaults.
The Star Note Factor
Look at the end of the serial number. See a little star instead of a letter? That’s a replacement note.
The Bureau of Engraving and Printing doesn't like to waste paper. If a sheet of bills is messed up during printing, they destroy it and print a new one. But they can’t use the same serial number twice in a run. So, they replace the final letter with a star.
Are star notes worth more? Usually, yes. But it depends on the "run size." If they only printed 10,000 star notes for that specific series and district, they are rare. If they printed 3.2 million, they aren't. Websites like the My Currency Collection Star Note Lookup let you plug in your info to see if your bill is a rare bird or a common pigeon.
Misprints and Errors: The "Holy Grail"
The U.S. government is incredibly good at printing money. They rarely mess up. That's why errors are so valuable. If you find a $100 bill where the ink from the back is bleeding through to the front, or the seals are shifted way off to the side, or (the big one) the bill is cut crookedly with part of another bill showing—don't spend it.
Collectors pay a massive premium for "gutter folds" or "double denominations." A double denomination is the ultimate mistake: a bill printed with $100 on one side and $50 on the other. It sounds like an urban legend, but they exist. They're worth tens of thousands.
The Condition Crisis
Here is the cold, hard truth: the "old" bill you found in your grandfather's book is likely worth $100.
Why? Because he handled it.
Every time you fold a bill, you break the fibers in the paper. Once those fibers are broken, the "grade" of the note plummets. A 1950 series $100 bill that is crisp, white, and perfectly centered might sell for $150 to $200. That same bill with a heavy crease down the middle and some dirt on the edges is worth exactly $100. It’s a brutal market.
How to Check Your Bill Without Getting Ripped Off
Don't just walk into a pawn shop. They are in the business of buying low and selling high. They’ll give you $105 for a $150 bill.
First, go to eBay and search for your bill's series year and seal color. But—and this is the important part—filter by "Sold Items." People can ask whatever they want for a bill, but the sold listings tell you what people are actually paying.
Second, if the bill looks truly unique (like a red seal or a weird error), consider getting it "sleeved." Buy a PVC-free plastic currency holder. Do not use a paperclip. Do not use tape. Just keep it flat.
Actionable Steps for Your Old $100 Bill
If you're holding an old Benjamin right now, here is your checklist:
- Check the Year: 1928, 1934, and 1966 (Red Seal) are the heavy hitters.
- Check the Seal Color: Red, Blue, or Gold means you should definitely keep it.
- Inspect the Serial Number: Look for patterns (12345678), low numbers (under 00001000), or stars at the end.
- Feel the Paper: If it feels like a normal bill but looks "off," check for printing errors like ink smears or misalignments.
- Consult a Pro: If you think you have something rare, look for a dealer certified by the Professional Currency Dealers Association (PCDA).
- The "Bank Test": If it’s just a 1985 green-seal bill with a crease, and you need the money, just spend it. Banks will often pull these older notes from circulation to be destroyed and replaced with new ones, but they will always give you face value for them.
Most of the time, the mystery of are old hundred dollar bills worth anything ends with a slightly disappointing "just $100." But every once in a while, that old piece of paper is a winning lottery ticket. Take the ten minutes to look closely before you hand it over to a cashier. Once it's back in the banking system, it's gone for good.