Bermuda Onions: Why This Sweet Heirloom Almost Vanished

Bermuda Onions: Why This Sweet Heirloom Almost Vanished

You’ve probably seen the name on a dusty seed packet or tucked away in a vintage recipe book. Bermuda onions aren't just a random produce item; they are the stuff of legend, a vegetable so central to an island's identity that the people living there still call themselves "Onions." It's a bit strange when you think about it. Imagine being so proud of a bulbous root that you adopt it as your national demonym. But once you taste a real one, it starts to make sense.

These aren't your standard, tear-inducing grocery store yellow onions. They're mild. They're remarkably sweet. Honestly, you can eat them sliced thin on a sandwich like you would a tomato, and you won't spend the next three hours regretting your life choices or carrying a scent that can peel paint.

But there is a catch. Most of what we call Bermuda onions today... well, they aren't actually from Bermuda.

What Are Bermuda Onions, Really?

Technically, the Bermuda onion is a variety of the Allium cepa species, specifically the "Yellow Bermuda" or "White Bermuda." They are flat-topped, sort of shaped like a spinning top that someone squashed down. Back in the day—we’re talking the late 1800s—they were the island’s biggest export. The volcanic soil and the salty Atlantic breeze created a flavor profile that was impossible to replicate elsewhere.

They belong to the short-day onion family. This means they start forming bulbs when the daylight reaches about 10 to 12 hours. Because Bermuda sits in a sweet spot of latitude, the onions grow fast and stay tender. They don't have that biting sulfurous punch because they don't sit in the ground long enough to get angry. They are harvested young, usually in the spring, which is why they are so succulent.

The Rise and Fall of the Onion King

Bermuda wasn't always a tourist trap for the rich and famous. Before the yachts arrived, it was a farming hub. By 1890, the island was shipping over 300,000 boxes of onions to New York City every year. People went crazy for them. They were the "it" vegetable of the Gilded Age.

Then, things got messy.

Texas farmers realized they could grow similar seeds in the Rio Grande Valley. They had more land. They had cheaper labor. They started marketing "Bermuda Onions" that had never even seen a passport. By the time World War I rolled around, the high shipping costs and the sheer volume of Texas-grown "fakes" basically crushed the original industry in Bermuda.

It's a classic case of a brand being so good that it becomes its own worst enemy. Nowadays, if you buy a "Bermuda" onion in a US supermarket, it’s almost certainly grown in Texas or California. The original heirloom strains in Bermuda are mostly grown in small backyard patches or by a handful of local farmers like Tom Wadson of Wadson’s Farm, who has worked hard to keep the authentic heritage alive.

Why the Flavor Is Different

It comes down to chemistry. Most onions are high in pyruvate. That's the stuff that makes your eyes sting and leaves that metallic aftertaste. Bermuda varieties are naturally low in pyruvate and high in water content.

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  • Texture: Crunchy, but breaks down easily.
  • Sugar content: Significantly higher than a standard Spanish onion.
  • Shelf life: Terrible. This is the big downside. Because they have so much water and sugar, they rot fast. You can't keep them in a cellar all winter. You eat them now, or you lose them.

Growing Your Own (The Only Way to Get the Real Deal)

If you want to experience the actual flavor, you kind of have to grow them yourself or visit the island in April. Commercial shipping just doesn't work for a vegetable this delicate.

You need to look for seeds labeled Yellow Bermuda (Crystal Wax) or White Bermuda. If you live in a northern climate, forget it. You won't get a bulb. These need the southern sun. They need to be planted in the fall so they can bulb up during the short days of late winter.

One thing people get wrong is the soil. They think onions need heavy fertilizer. Not these. If you over-fertilize with nitrogen, you get a giant green top and a tiny, bitter bulb. They need potassium and a bit of sulfur, but not too much. If the soil is too rich in sulfur, you lose that "sweet" characteristic that makes them famous in the first place.

How to Use Them Like a Pro

Look, don't cook these into a stew for six hours. That’s a waste. The heat destroys the subtle sugars and turns the delicate texture into mush.

The best way to eat a Bermuda onion is raw or very lightly pickled. Slice them paper-thin. Put them on a piece of toasted rye bread with some high-quality butter and a sprinkle of sea salt. That’s it. That’s the whole meal. In Bermuda, the traditional way to serve them is in a fish chowder (splashed with Sherry Peppers and Black Seal Rum) or baked whole with a bit of butter in the center.

The Misconception of the "Red" Bermuda

A lot of people think Bermuda onions are red. They aren't.

That confusion comes from the "Red Hamburger Onion," which is often cross-bred with Bermuda genetics to give it a milder taste. A true, old-school Bermuda onion is either a pale, waxy white or a light, straw-colored yellow. If it's deep purple, it’s a different beast entirely.

Finding the Authentic Seed

If you’re a gardener, don't just buy the first packet you see at the big-box store. Look for suppliers that specialize in heirlooms. Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds or Southern Exposure Seed Exchange often carry the more "pure" lines that haven't been hybridized for mechanical harvesting. You want the seeds that produce those slightly misshapen, flat bulbs. Perfection is a sign of a commercial hybrid, not an heirloom.

Quick Facts for Your Next Garden Party

  1. The "Onion" Nickname: Bermudians were called "Onions" as a joke by the British, but they liked it so much they kept it.
  2. The Great Flood: In the early 1900s, a ship carrying onions sank, and thousands of bulbs washed up on the shores of New Jersey. Local farmers tried to plant them, but the soil wasn't right.
  3. Nutrition: Like all onions, they are packed with Vitamin C and quercetin, but because you can eat more of them raw, you actually get more of the nutrients than you would from a pungent onion you have to cook.

Final Steps for the Home Chef

Don't let the name on the grocery store sign fool you. If you want the real experience of a Bermuda onion, you have to be intentional.

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  • Check the source: If you're at a farmer's market, ask the grower specifically if they are "Short Day" varieties.
  • Store them right: Never put these in the fridge. The humidity kills them. Keep them in a cool, dry place with plenty of airflow—hang them in a mesh bag if you can.
  • Eat them fast: Use them within two weeks of purchase or harvest.
  • Experiment with "Onion Pie": It’s a classic Bermudian dish. It’s basically a savory custard with heaps of sliced sweet onions. It sounds weird; it tastes like heaven.

Stop settling for those rock-hard yellow onions that haunt your breath for days. Find a real sweet heirloom, slice it thin, and understand why an entire island nation decided to name themselves after a vegetable.