Honestly, if you're looking for a "Black White Jordan 5," you aren't just looking for one shoe. You're actually stepping into a decade-long debate about nicknames, trademark lawsuits, and whether suede is better than nubuck.
Most people use that search term and expect to see the Oreo. Or maybe the Moonlight. Or maybe that new Reverse Metallic that just hit the shelves. It’s confusing.
The Air Jordan 5 is a loud shoe by nature. Designed by Tinker Hatfield in 1990, it was famously inspired by WWII P-51 Mustang fighter jets. You see it in the aggressive "shark teeth" on the midsole. But when you strip away the bright "Grape" or "Fire Red" colors and stick to a strict black-and-white palette, the silhouette becomes something else. It becomes a tuxedo for your feet.
The Oreo vs. Moonlight Identity Crisis
Here’s the deal. In 2013, Jordan Brand dropped a shoe that everyone immediately called the "Oreo." It had a black nubuck upper, a white midsole, and those iconic white-speckled shark teeth that looked exactly like crushed cookies. It was a massive hit.
Fast forward to 2021. Jordan Brand brings the shoe back. Same black upper. Same speckles. But suddenly, the official name on the box is the Air Jordan 5 Moonlight.
Why the name change? Basically, "Oreo" is a trademark owned by Nabisco. While sneakerheads will always call them Oreos, Nike had to pivot to "Moonlight" to keep the lawyers happy. If you are buying a pair today on the secondary market, just know they are functionally the same shoe.
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The 2021 version (CT4838-011) stays true to the 2013 original (136027-035). We’re talking:
- A buttery black nubuck upper.
- Clear lace toggles (a staple of the AJ5).
- A crisp white midsole that pops against the dark body.
- The "icy" translucent outsole that yellowed so fast on the 1990 originals.
The 2024 Reverse Metallic: A New Contender
If you've seen a white leather version recently, that's likely the Air Jordan 5 White Black, often called the Reverse Metallic (DD0587-110). It basically takes the legendary OG "Black Metallic" from 1990 and flips the script.
Instead of black nubuck, you get premium white leather. The black accents hit the collar and the midsole, while the "shark teeth" get a speckled silver finish. It’s a cleaner, more "summer" version of the black white Jordan 5 aesthetic.
Some purists hate the white leather on a 5, claiming it loses the "stealth fighter" vibe. Others think it’s the most wearable 5 in years.
Materials Matter: Nubuck vs. Suede vs. Leather
When you are hunting for these, the material is what determines how they’ll look in six months.
- Nubuck (Oreo/Moonlight): It’s soft. It looks expensive. But man, it's a magnet for dust. If you don't hit these with a protectant spray immediately, they’ll look "ashy" within weeks.
- Leather (Reverse Metallic): Much easier to wipe down. If someone steps on your foot at a concert, you aren't ruined.
- SE Craft (Anthracite): There is also the "Anthracite" 5, which mixes textures like suede and textile. It’s technically "black and white" (or at least very dark grey), but it feels more like a workwear shoe than a basketball sneaker.
What's Coming in 2025 and 2026?
The rumor mill is currently obsessed with the Air Jordan 5 Black Metallic Reimagined, slated for early 2025. While the OG is black and silver, the "Reimagined" series often tweaks materials or adds "aged" details.
We've seen reports that this version might include reflective piping or a slightly different "Nike Air" branding on the heel. For the hardcore collectors, the heel branding is everything. A "Jumpman" logo is fine, but that "Nike Air" logo is the holy grail of nostalgia.
How to Spot Fakes in the Black White Colorway
Because the Oreo/Moonlight is so popular, the market is flooded with "reps." If you are buying from a person rather than a verified store, check these three things:
- The Shark Teeth: On a real pair, the white speckles should be crisp, not blurry or gloppy.
- The Tongue: The AJ5 is famous for its tall, reflective 3M tongue. If it doesn't "glow" when you take a flash photo, or if it feels flimsy and thin, walk away.
- The Stitching on the Heel: Jordan 5s have a very specific curve to the heel. Fakes often look too "straight" or blocky.
Style Guide: How to Actually Wear These
The beauty of a black white Jordan 5 is the versatility. You can't really wear "Grapes" with everything. But these?
- The Streetwear Look: Baggy cargo pants (olive or black) that sit right on top of the tongue. Don't tuck the tongue in—let it breathe.
- The "Clean" Look: Slimmer black jeans and a plain white tee. It lets the speckles on the midsole do the talking.
- The Lace Swap: A lot of people swap the black laces for white ones. Honestly? It makes the shoe look a bit "busy," but it definitely emphasizes the Oreo theme.
Making the Choice
If you want the classic "Oreo" look, hunt for the 2021 Moonlight. It’s the most iconic version of the black-and-white theme. If you prefer leather and a brighter vibe, go for the 2024 Reverse Metallic.
Before you buy, check the manufacture date on the inside tag. Pairs from 2013 are now over a decade old. Even if they look "deadstock" (unworn), the glue can dry out, and the soles can crumble the first time you walk in them. If you plan on actually wearing your shoes, stick to the 2021 or 2024 releases.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Verify the SKU: If you want the "Oreo" look, search specifically for CT4838-011.
- Check the Midsole: Ensure there is no "fogging" in the Air unit, which indicates a leak or aging.
- Protect the Nubuck: If you buy the Moonlight, purchase a specialized suede/nubuck eraser and brush set; you’ll need it for the inevitable scuffs.