You’ve seen it. If you’ve ever driven west out of Missoula on I-90 or glanced toward the horizon from the valley floor on a clear winter day, that sharp, pyramid-shaped tooth on the skyline is impossible to miss. It stands there like a sentinel. Most locals just call it the "shining peak," which is exactly what the Salish word Ch-Paa-Qn translates to.
Honestly, it’s one of those mountains that looks way more intimidating from a distance than it actually is to hike. But don’t let that fool you into thinking it's a walk in the park. The final stretch is a legitimate boulder scramble that will have you questioning your cardio and your choice of footwear.
What Most People Get Wrong About Ch-Paa-Qn Peak
For decades, this 7,996-foot summit was known by a different name—one that’s now widely recognized as a slur. In 1999, Montana moved to strip "Squaw" from its geographic features, and this peak was at the top of the list. While you’ll still see the old name on some crusty 1970s maps or find it crudely carved into trailhead signs by people who resist change, the official and respectful name is Ch-Paa-Qn Peak.
It’s pronounced "cha-pa-kwin."
Some folks think it belongs to the Bitterroots. Others argue it’s part of the Rattlesnake Mountains or the Ninemile Range. Geographically, it sits on the Reservation Divide, a high ridge that separates the Lolo National Forest from the Flathead Indian Reservation. It’s a bit of a geographic loner, which is why the views from the top are so ridiculously expansive. You aren't just looking at one range; you're looking at the Mission Mountains, the Bitterroots, and the Jocko Valley all at once.
Getting There Without Wrecking Your Car
The drive is half the adventure. Or half the headache, depending on what you’re driving.
Most hikers take the Ninemile exit (Exit 82) off I-90 and wind their way up toward the Ninemile Ranger Station. It’s a cool spot to stop if you’re into pack mules or forest history. From there, you’re heading onto Edith Peak Road (Road 476).
Here’s the deal: the road is rough.
I’m not saying you need a rock crawler, but a low-clearance sedan is going to have a bad time. Think potholes, sharp rocks, and sections so narrow you’ll be praying nobody is coming the other way. If you have a Subaru or a truck, you’re fine. Just take it slow. It’s about 15 miles of dirt road driving that feels like 50.
The Hike: From Forest to Boulder Field
There are two main ways up, but most people stick to Trail #707 or the Reservation Divide Trail (#98).
If you start from the higher trailhead on the divide, you’re looking at roughly a 6-to-7-mile round trip. The first few miles are actually quite mellow. You’re hiking through lodgepole pine and Douglas fir, occasionally breaking into meadows filled with bear grass or penstemon.
Then you hit the rocks.
The trail basically gives up about a quarter-mile from the summit. From there, it’s a choose-your-own-adventure scramble over massive granite boulders. It’s not "technical" climbing—you don't need ropes—but you will need your hands. Watch for the small flag or the cairns (rock piles) left by other hikers to stay on the easiest line.
Quick Stats for the Nerds:
- Summit Elevation: 7,996 feet (so close to 8k, it hurts).
- Elevation Gain: Roughly 1,200 to 2,300 feet depending on where you park.
- Difficulty: Moderate until the boulder field, then "spicy."
- Best Time to Go: July through October. Any earlier and you’ll be post-holing through snowdrifts.
The "Shining Peak" Experience
When you finally crest that last boulder, the wind usually hits you first. It can be 80 degrees in Missoula and 50 degrees with a 30-mph gust up here. Pack a windbreaker. Seriously.
The summit is essentially a giant pile of rocks with a 360-degree view. To the north, you’re looking down into the Jocko Valley and the lands of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. To the south, the Missoula Valley looks tiny.
There’s a legendary history here, too. Thousands of years ago, this peak would have looked like an island. During the era of Glacial Lake Missoula, water backed up by an ice dam in Idaho filled these valleys. If you look closely at the hillsides across the way, you can still see the "strandlines"—horizontal marks left by ancient shorelines. Standing on Ch-Paa-Qn Peak, you are standing above where that massive inland sea once churned.
Safety and Etiquette
This isn't a city park.
- Grizzly Country: You are in the heart of bear territory. This isn't just "bring bear spray" advice; it's "know how to use it and have it on your hip" advice.
- Weather: Afternoon thunderstorms in the Rockies are no joke. If the clouds start looking like bruised knuckles, get off the ridge. You do not want to be the highest point on a mountain of granite when lightning starts.
- The Scree: Going down the boulder field is often harder than going up. It’s a great way to twist an ankle or smash a knee. Take your time.
- Land Respect: Since the trail follows the boundary of the Flathead Reservation, stay on the path. The Salish people have a deep, spiritual connection to this land that predates "hiking" by several thousand years.
Practical Steps for Your Trip
Don't just wing it. Check the SNOTEL data or call the Ninemile Ranger Station before you go in June—snow lingers on the north faces long after it’s gone in town.
Bring a physical map. Cell service is non-existent once you drop into the Ninemile drainage. Download your Gaia or AllTrails maps for offline use before you leave the house.
Pack more water than you think you need. There aren't many reliable springs on the ridge, and the dry Montana air will suck the moisture right out of you during the scramble. If you’re hiking in late summer, the huckleberries might be out near the lower sections of the trail, which is a nice consolation prize for the uphill grind.
When you get back to the trailhead, check your tires. Those sharp rocks on the access road are notorious for "slow leaks." It’s worth the effort, though. There is something uniquely satisfying about sitting in a brewery in Missoula later that evening, looking up at that distant, pointy peak, and knowing you were just standing on top of it.
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To get started, pull up a current forest service map of the Lolo National Forest to verify which forest roads are currently marked as open, as seasonal closures often affect the high-altitude access points until late spring.