Honestly, if you ask most people about a weekend trip to North Wales, they’ll immediately start talking about Llandudno. They want the Victorian pier and the punch-and-jelly feel of the Great Orme. But Colwyn Bay is different. It’s the town that people used to drive past on the A55, usually on their way to somewhere "better," but that’s a massive mistake. Over the last decade, Colwyn Bay has undergone a total transformation that isn’t just about fresh paint. It’s about a massive multi-million pound investment in the waterfront and a shift in how the town feels to walk through. It's gritty in parts, sure, but it’s authentic.
Colwyn Bay exists in this weird, beautiful liminal space between the Irish Sea and the dense, green hills of Conwy. It’s a place where you can find a world-class zoo five minutes away from a beach that looks like it belongs in the Mediterranean on a sunny day.
The Porth Eirias Shift and Why the Beach Changed Everything
For years, the beach at Colwyn Bay was, well, a bit depressing. The tide would come in right up to the wall, and the sand was patchy at best. That changed with the Porth Eirias development. They pumped thousands of tonnes of fresh sand onto the shore, creating a permanent beach that stays there even when the tide is high. It changed the entire psychology of the town.
Suddenly, people weren't just looking at the water; they were in it. You’ve got people out there on paddleboards at 7:00 AM. You’ve got Bryn Williams—a chef who actually knows what he’s doing with local Welsh produce—running a bistro right on the edge of the sand. If you haven't had the breakfast there while watching the mist roll off the water, you’re missing out.
The promenade now stretches for miles. You can walk, cycle, or skate all the way from Old Colwyn through to Rhos-on-Sea without ever having to dodge a car. It's flat, it's wide, and it’s arguably one of the best coastal paths in the UK for accessibility. It doesn't feel like a "seaside resort" in that tacky, 1950s way. It feels like a modern, functional piece of coastal infrastructure that people actually use for their daily lives.
Rhos-on-Sea: The Gentler Side of the Bay
Technically a suburb, but let’s be real, Rhos-on-Sea is the soul of the area. It’s got a much more "village" vibe than the main town center. While Colwyn Bay handles the big events and the train station traffic, Rhos is where you go for a quiet coffee or to look at the tiny St Trillo’s Chapel.
That chapel is wild. It’s the smallest in Britain. It seats about six people if they’re willing to get very cozy with each other. It’s built over a holy well and dates back to the 6th century. It’s a reminder that this isn’t just a Victorian holiday spot; people have been huddling on this coastline for 1,500 years trying to find a bit of peace.
The Welsh Mountain Zoo: Not Just a Place to See Lemurs
You can’t talk about Colwyn Bay without mentioning the Welsh Mountain Zoo. It sits high up on the hill overlooking the bay. Most zoos are flat, boring enclosures in the middle of nowhere. This one is built into the landscape. It was founded in 1963 by the Nickerson family, and it still has that independent, conservation-first feel.
Because it’s on a hill, you’re constantly getting these "blink-and-you’ll-miss-it" views of the ocean between the animal enclosures. They do incredible work with Red Squirrel conservation. It’s one of the few places in Wales where you can really see the effort being put into bringing back native species. Plus, the snow leopards have one of the best views in the country. Imagine being a big cat from the Himalayas and ending up in North Wales; honestly, the climate isn't that much of a shock for them.
The walk up there is steep. Really steep. If you’re not driving, be prepared for a workout that will make your calves scream. But the payoff is the Panorama walk nearby, which gives you a 360-degree look at the Carneddau mountains and the sea.
📖 Related: Why Party Cove Lake of the Ozarks Is Still the Most Infamous Mile in Missouri
Colwyn Bay’s Victorian Bones and Modern Struggles
The town center is where the "real" Wales comes out. It’s not a postcard. You’ve got the Victoria Shopping Centre and plenty of independent shops that have survived the rise of Amazon and the cost-of-living crisis. It's a bit of a mix. You’ll find a high-end vinyl record shop like Vini & Balu or a really great sourdough at a local bakery, and then a vacant storefront next door. It’s a town in transition.
The architecture is stunning if you look up. The Station Hotel and the various Victorian villas show how much money used to flow through here when the railway first brought the workers from Manchester and Liverpool.
One thing people often get wrong? They think the pier is still there. It’s not. Not really. The old Victoria Pier was a long-running tragedy of legal battles and storm damage. It was finally dismantled, but they’ve built a "truncated" version of it—a shorter, modern pier that displays some of the original ironwork and murals. It’s a compromise. Some locals hate it because it’s a stump of what it used to be; others love it because at least the legacy isn't completely gone.
Sport and Culture: More Than Just a Quiet Town
Colwyn Bay punches way above its weight when it comes to events. Eirias Park (or Stadiwm CSM) is the home of North Wales rugby. When the U20s Six Nations games happen here, the atmosphere is electric. It’s loud, it’s passionate, and it brings a totally different crowd to the town than the Sunday-stroll tourists.
Music, too. We’ve seen everyone from Elton John to Little Mix play in that park. It’s weirdly surreal to see global superstars performing in a park in Colwyn Bay, but it works. The natural bowl of the landscape creates great acoustics.
👉 See also: Why the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument is More Than Just a Palm Springs Backdrop
For the more low-key culture seekers, the Theatr Colwyn is a gem. It’s the oldest working cinema in Wales and one of the oldest in the UK. They still show a mix of arthouse films, live theater, and pantos. It’s got that smell of old popcorn and velvet that you just don't get at a Cineworld.
Why the A55 is Both a Blessing and a Curse
The A55 North Wales Expressway is the reason the town grew, and it’s the reason it struggles. It makes the town incredibly accessible—you can be here from Chester in 40 minutes or Manchester in just over an hour. But it also creates a physical barrier between the town center and the beach.
The planners have tried to fix this with improved bridges and walkways, but you never quite escape the hum of the traffic. You sort of just learn to tune it out. You focus on the gulls and the sound of the waves instead.
The Best Way to Actually Experience Colwyn Bay
If you want to do this right, don't just stay for two hours.
- Start at Rhos-on-Sea. Get a coffee at one of the kiosks and walk the sea wall toward the main bay.
- Hit the beach mid-morning. Even if it’s cold, the sand is great for a walk. If you’re brave, join the local "Blue Tits" swimming group for a dip.
- Lunch at Porth Eirias. Book ahead. Seriously. The seafood is caught locally and it’s spectacular.
- Afternoon at the Zoo. Take the car or the shuttle bus if it's running. Don't try to walk it with kids unless you want to carry them halfway up.
- Evening in the town center. Check out some of the real pubs. The Toad on the front is great for a pint with a view, or head into the side streets for some of the more traditional Welsh locals.
The weather is a factor. This is North Wales. It rains. A lot. But there is a specific kind of beauty in Colwyn Bay when a storm is coming in over the Irish Sea. The sky turns a bruised purple and the waves start jumping the sea wall. It’s raw.
🔗 Read more: Lahaina Before and After: What the Recovery Efforts Really Look Like on the Ground
What Most People Miss
People miss the history of the "Mountain of the Old Woman" (Bryn-y-Maen). People miss the fact that the town was a massive hub for the Ministry of Food during World War II. Thousands of civil servants were evacuated here to keep the UK’s food supplies moving while London was being bombed. There’s a whole layer of secret history involving bureaucracy and rationing that happened right in these hotels.
Colwyn Bay isn't trying to be a polished, fake version of itself. It’s a working town that happens to have a fantastic coastline. It’s a bit rough around the edges, but that’s where the character is. It’s cheaper than the South of England, friendlier than the big cities, and has better air than anywhere else I can think of.
If you’re looking for a place that feels "lived in" rather than just "visited," this is it. It’s the underdog of the North Wales coast, and it’s finally starting to win.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the Conwy County Borough Council website for the latest "What's On" at Eirias Park.
- Book a table at Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias at least a week in advance for weekend slots.
- Buy a "Dual Zoo" pass if you’re planning on visiting other attractions in the area to save on entry fees.
- Download the "Arriva" app for local bus timings if you want to explore the surrounding Conwy Valley without a car.
---