Walk into a high-end western wear shop in Fort Worth or a dusty tack room in rural Nevada, and you'll realize something immediately. Not all cowboy hats are created equal. In fact, wearing the wrong crown or brim for the job—or the region—is a quick way to look like a "greenhorn." Honestly, most folks think a cowboy hat is just a piece of felt with a dent in it. It’s way more nuanced than that.
The type of cowboy hat you choose says a lot about where you're from, what you do for a living, and even how much you know about ranching history. You've got the Cattleman, the Gus, the Brick, and the Open Crown, just to name a few. Each one has a specific "crease" that serves a purpose, whether that's shedding rain or keeping the wind from snatching it off your head.
Why the Crease Actually Matters
Most people think the dents in a hat are just for style. That’s mostly wrong. Originally, the way a hat was pinched or folded was a functional response to the environment.
Take the Cattleman crease. It’s the most iconic look you’ll see today. It features a single center crease and two side tucks. Why? Because ranch owners wanted a look that was distinguished but also practical. The deeper the center crease, the better the hat stayed on during a gust of wind. It’s the "standard" for a reason. If you go to a wedding or a rodeo today, 70% of the guys there are probably wearing a Cattleman. It’s safe. It’s classic.
But then you have the Gus crease. You might recognize this from Lonesome Dove. Robert Duvall’s character, Augustus McCrae, made this one famous, though it existed long before the miniseries. It’s got a high back that slopes down toward the front. It looks rugged. It looks like it’s seen a few miles. This style originally helped cowboys grab the crown easily to pull it down tight when the weather turned nasty. It gives you more "grab" room than a standard Cattleman.
The Brick and the Tom Mix
If you want something a bit more formal, you look at the Brick. It’s basically a modified Cattleman but with a squared-off top. It looks heavier. It looks more "business." You’ll see a lot of stock contractors and older cattlemen wearing this because it’s got a certain authority to it.
Then there’s the Tom Mix. Named after the silent film star, this is the "Ten Gallon" hat people joke about. It’s massive. It has a high crown and a wide brim with a specific "shoveling" effect on the sides. While it’s a bit much for everyday ranch work, it’s a staple in the entertainment side of the western world. It’s about being seen.
Materials: Felt vs. Straw
You don't wear felt in the middle of a Texas July. You just don't.
There is an unwritten rule in the West: Straw from Easter to Labor Day, felt the rest of the year. Of course, if you’re working in the brush, you might stick to felt year-round because straw won't survive a run-in with a mesquite tree.
Felt Hats: These are usually made from rabbit, wild mink, or beaver fur. When you see an "X" rating on a hat—like 10X, 20X, or 100X—it’s supposed to represent the percentage of beaver fur in the blend. Beaver is naturally water-repellent. A high-quality 100X beaver hat can literally act as a bucket for water and stay dry on the inside. It’s incredible. But here’s the kicker: there is no industry standard for what an "X" means. A 10X hat from Stetson might be totally different from a 10X hat from Resistol. You have to feel the "hand" of the felt. Is it oily? Is it dense? That’s how you know quality.
👉 See also: Why 2020 Broadway New York NY is More Than Just a Luxury Address
Straw Hats: These are for the heat. They’re breathable. Most are made from Shantung (which is actually a high-strength paper yarn), Panama straw, or Bangora. A good Shantung straw is surprisingly tough. It’ll handle a sweat-drenched afternoon and keep its shape.
The Regional Identity of the Brim
The brim is where things get really regional. In the Great Basin—think Nevada, Idaho, and parts of Oregon—you’ll see the "Buckaroo" style. These guys often wear a flat brim or a very slight "pencil roll" on the edge. They like a high, round "Open Crown." It’s a very distinct look influenced by the Spanish Vaqueros.
Down in Texas, the brims are often curled up more on the sides. This is partially because of the wind and partially because of the brush. If your brim is too wide and flat, it catches the wind like a sail. If it's curled, it cuts through.
And then there's the Coolidge or the Gambler. These have a flat top and a relatively flat brim. Think of what you’d see in a Mississippi riverboat movie. It’s not a "working" cowboy hat in the modern sense, but it’s a massive part of the historical type of cowboy hat lineage. It offers great sun protection but lacks the aerodynamic qualities needed for galloping after a stray calf.
Understanding the "X" Quality Scam
Let's be real for a second. The "X" system is kind of a mess. Back in the day, a 5X hat was a premium item. Now, you’ll see 1000X hats that are basically encrusted with gold or diamonds. Don’t get distracted by the number.
If you’re buying a hat for work, look for a 10X to 20X beaver blend. It’s the sweet spot for durability and price. Anything higher and you’re paying for the "prestige" of the finish. Anything lower and it might start to lose its shape after the first heavy rain. According to hatters like those at JW Brooks or Catalena Hatters, the felt's density is what matters most. If you can see light through the felt when you hold it up to a lamp, it’s not going to hold up to a Wyoming winter.
Shape Your Own Destiny
Most high-end hats are sold "Open Crown." This means they look like a giant dome when you buy them. You then take it to a professional shaper who uses steam to mold it into the specific type of cowboy hat you want. This is where the magic happens. A good shaper can look at the shape of your face and tell you that a Cattleman crease will make your head look too long, or a wide brim will overwhelm your shoulders.
It's a custom experience. The steam softens the fur fibers, and as the hat cools, those fibers lock into place. If you ever mess up your hat, don't panic. A little steam from a tea kettle can often bring it back to life, though honestly, it's usually better to let a pro handle it.
How to Wear It Without Looking Like a Tourist
There is a right way and a wrong way to put on a hat. First, look for the small ribbon or bow on the inside sweatband. That bow always goes at the back of your head. If you wear it in the front, you’re basically wearing your pants backward.
Also, never set your hat down on the brim. It’ll flatten out the shape over time. Always set it down on the crown (upside down) or hang it on a rack. This keeps the "tension" in the brim's curve.
Care and Maintenance
- Brushing: Always brush a felt hat counter-clockwise. This follows the natural lay of the fur.
- Drying: If it gets soaked, let it air dry naturally. Never put it near a heater. The heat will shrink the leather sweatband, and suddenly your expensive hat won't fit your head anymore.
- Handling: Pick up your hat by the brim, not the crown. Grabbing the crown repeatedly will eventually create "soft spots" in the felt or crack a straw hat.
The Actionable Step-by-Step for Buyers
If you’re in the market for a new lid, don't just order one online and hope for the best.
First, determine your environment. If you're in a humid climate, lean toward a higher beaver content felt to prevent wilting. If you’re in the desert, focus on a high-ventilation straw.
Second, identify your face shape. Round faces usually look better with a higher crown and a slight slant to the crease. Long, thin faces benefit from a lower crown and a wider brim to balance things out.
Third, find a local western shop that actually has a steam station. Don't buy a pre-shaped hat from a big-box store if you can help it. Having a hat shaped specifically to your head and your style makes all the difference in the world.
Finally, invest in a good hat can. If you're traveling, throwing your hat in the backseat is a death sentence for the brim. A $50 plastic hat carrier will save your $500 investment every single time. It's the most overlooked piece of gear in the western world, but honestly, it’s the most important.
Once you find the right type of cowboy hat, it becomes an extension of you. It takes on your sweat, your dust, and your history. It’s the only piece of clothing that actually gets better the more you use it. Just make sure you start with the right foundation.