You’re sitting at a red light, the radio is playing something you actually like, and then—poof. The engine just dies. No sputter, no drama, just total silence. You try to crank it, and it struggles. Maybe it starts after five minutes of begging, or maybe it’s officially a lawn ornament.
Honestly, it’s probably the crankshaft position sensor. This tiny, plastic-housed magnet is the "metronome" of your engine. When it stops ticking, the computer loses its mind because it doesn’t know where the pistons are. No timing means no spark, no fuel, and no movement.
But here’s the kicker: the crankshaft sensor replacement cost is one of those repairs that can either be a "twenty-minute driveway job" or a "sell your plasma" nightmare. I’ve seen people walk away for $120 and others get handed a bill for $850.
Why the Price Varies (It’s Not Just the Part)
Let’s get real about the numbers. On average, you’re looking at $180 to $350 for a standard sedan or SUV at a local shop. But that’s a huge "sorta" because the labor is where things get weird.
The sensor itself is cheap. Usually $40 to $110. But car engineers are sometimes practical jokers. On a 1990s Jeep Cherokee, the sensor is on the back of the engine block near the firewall. It’s annoying, but a pro can swap it fast. On a modern Volkswagen or a luxury Audi, they might have buried it behind the transmission or under the intake manifold.
If a mechanic has to take half the top of your engine off just to see the plug, you aren’t paying for a sensor. You’re paying for four hours of their life they’ll never get back.
The Breakdown: Parts vs. Labor
Labor rates in 2026 are hovering between $130 and $210 per hour depending on whether you’re at a "greasy floor" independent shop or a "fancy espresso machine" dealership.
- The Part ($45–$130): I strongly recommend OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) here. Brands like Bosch, Denso, or NGK/NTK are the gold standard. Buying a $15 sensor from a random site is basically asking to be stranded again in three weeks. These sensors are sensitive to heat and vibration; cheap ones melt or lose their magnetic signal the second you hit highway speeds.
- The Labor ($100–$600): This is the wildcard. A Ford F-150 might only take 45 minutes. A Chevy Silverado with a 5.3L engine might require the starter to be removed first. That’s an extra hour of work right there.
- The Diagnosis ($100–$160): Most shops will charge a "diagnostic fee" to plug in their scanner and verify the P0335 or P0336 codes. Sometimes they’ll waive this if you do the repair with them.
Real-World Cost Examples
Let's look at what people are actually paying right now. These aren't perfect quotes, but they're what you should expect to see on an invoice.
For a Honda Accord, you're likely seeing a total of $230 to $380. The access is decent, and parts are plentiful.
If you're driving a Ford Expedition, prepare for a hit of $350 to $530. Newer models (2020+) can even climb toward $900 if the sensor is located in a high-deconstruction area like the rear of the block.
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Nissan Altima owners usually get a bit of a break. It’s a common failure point, and the job is relatively straightforward, often landing between $150 and $240.
Can You Just Do It Yourself?
If you have a socket set and a little patience, maybe.
Basically, the job is: unplug the wire, unscrew one 10mm bolt, pull the old sensor out, and pop the new one in. Simple, right?
The "gotcha" is that these sensors often get "stuck." They’ve been sitting in a hot engine block for 100,000 miles. They get brittle. If you pull too hard and the plastic snaps, leaving the bottom half of the sensor inside the engine hole... well, you’re having a very bad Saturday. Now you’re calling a tow truck for a car that was technically "fine" an hour ago.
Also, some cars (mostly Chrysler, Dodge, and some GMs) require a "crankshaft relearn procedure." This means even if you swap the part, the car might still run like junk until a mechanic uses a high-end scan tool to tell the computer, "Hey, here’s the new guy." Your $20 Bluetooth scanner from the internet usually can't do that.
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Symptoms That Confirm You’re Not Imagining It
Before you drop the cash, make sure it’s actually the sensor.
- The "Ghost" Stall: You’re driving, and the engine just cuts out. No warning lights initially. It might restart after it cools down for 20 minutes. That’s the classic "heat soak" failure where the internal wiring of the sensor expands and breaks the connection.
- Tachometer Shenanigans: If you’re cranking the engine and the RPM needle stays at a dead zero, the sensor isn't sending a signal.
- Misfires and Vibration: Sometimes the sensor doesn't die; it just gets "lazy." It sends slightly wrong data, making the engine stumble or vibrate at stoplights.
- The Check Engine Light: Usually, you'll see a P0335 code. If you see this along with a camshaft code, it could also mean your timing chain has stretched—which is a much, much more expensive problem.
Actionable Next Steps
Don't just panic and tow it to the nearest shop.
First, get your own OBD-II scanner—a basic one is $30—and check the codes yourself. If you see P0335, you know what you’re dealing with.
Second, call two different shops. Ask them specifically, "What is the book time for a crankshaft sensor on my [Year/Make/Model]?" If one shop says 1 hour and the other says 4, someone is trying to overcharge you.
Third, if you're DIYing it, buy a can of penetrating oil (like PB Blaster). Spray the sensor area the night before you plan to pull it. It could save you from that nightmare of the sensor snapping off in the block.
Lastly, check your wiring harness. I’ve seen people replace the sensor three times only to find out a squirrel chewed the wire six inches away from the plug. A little electrical tape is a lot cheaper than a new sensor.
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Check your oil while you’re at it. On some engines, a massive oil leak from the valve cover can drip onto the sensor and short it out. If you don't fix the leak, your brand-new sensor will be dead in six months anyway.