Let’s be real for a second. There is a reason why, every single October or whenever a themed party invite hits your inbox, the Cruella De Vil makeup look is the first thing people think of. It’s not just about the dalmatians. It’s the power. It’s that unapologetic, high-fashion villainy that makes you feel like the most interesting person in the room. Honestly, most people mess it up by going too "costume-y" and not enough "Couture."
If you look at the evolution of this character—from the 1961 animation to Glenn Close’s legendary 90s portrayal, and finally to Emma Stone’s punk-rock reimagining—the face is the anchor. You’re dealing with a specific color palette: stark white, deep charcoal, and a red lip so sharp it could cut glass. But how do you wear it without looking like a flour-covered ghost?
It’s about the bone structure. Cruella is all about angles.
The Secret to That Bone-Chilling Base
Most people grab a tube of cheap white greasepaint from a Halloween store and call it a day. Big mistake. Huge. If you want a Cruella De Vil makeup look that actually lasts through a dinner party or a night of dancing, you need to think like a pro makeup artist.
Start with a high-coverage foundation that’s about two to three shades lighter than your natural skin tone. You aren't going for "undead"; you're going for "aristocratic paleness." Brands like KVD Beauty or MAC are basically the gold standard here because they offer shades that are nearly white but still have a skin-like finish.
Why Texture Matters More Than Color
If the base is too matte, you’ll look flat. If it’s too dewy, the heavy contour won't stick. You want a "satin" finish.
Apply your base with a damp sponge. Press it in. Don't swipe. Swiping creates streaks, and streaks are the enemy of high fashion. Once you’ve got that ghostly-yet-glamorous canvas, you have to set it immediately. Use a translucent powder, but don't bake for too long or you’ll end up with "crease city" under your eyes.
Carving Out the Villainy: The Contour
Cruella doesn't have soft features. She has a face made of sharp lines and shadows. To get that Cruella De Vil makeup silhouette, you need a cool-toned contour product. Avoid anything warm or bronzy. We aren't going for a sun-kissed glow; we’re going for "I haven't seen the sun since I started planning my latest coat."
Find the hollows of your cheeks. Suck them in if you have to. Start the pigment at the ear and drag it down toward the corner of the mouth, stopping about two inches away. Blend it upward. If you blend it downward, your face will look saggy rather than snatched.
- The Nose: Cruella usually has a very slim, pointed nose. Use a small blending brush to run two thin lines of grey-brown shadow down the sides of the bridge.
- The Jawline: This is where you can get aggressive. Use a heavy hand to define the jaw, making it look as sharp as possible.
- The Temples: Bring that contour up around the forehead to shrink the face and focus all the attention on the eyes.
The Eyes: Smokey, Gritty, and Green
Depending on which version of Cruella you're channeling, the eyes change drastically. In the 2021 Cruella movie, makeup designer Nadia Stacey went for a 1970s London punk vibe. It was messy. It was intentional. It was gorgeous.
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For the classic look, you’re looking at a heavy cut-crease. Use a matte grey in the crease and a shimmering white or pale green on the lid. Fun fact: in the original animation, Cruella often has a subtle green eyeshadow. It’s a nod to her sickly, toxic personality. Adding a pop of lime or emerald green in the center of the lid adds a layer of sophistication that separates the amateurs from the experts.
Eyeliner Is Not Optional
You need a winged liner. Not a "cute" wing. A "I'm going to take over the fashion world" wing. Use a liquid liner for the sharpest edge possible. If you’re doing the Emma Stone version, you can actually smudge a kohl pencil along the lash line and use a stiff brush to pull it outward. It’s less precise but way more intimidating.
Don't forget the lashes. Huge, fluttery, slightly chaotic faux lashes are mandatory. If they feel a bit heavy, you’re doing it right.
That Iconic Red Lip
The lips are the focal point of the entire Cruella De Vil makeup aesthetic. It has to be red, but not just any red. It needs to be a blue-toned crimson. Why blue-toned? Because it makes your teeth look whiter and it pops harder against the pale skin and black-and-white hair.
- Prep: Exfoliate your lips. Dry skin is a nightmare with red lipstick.
- Line: Use a lip liner that matches your lipstick exactly. Overline just a tiny bit at the Cupid's bow to get that "pouty" look.
- Fill: Apply a matte liquid lipstick. Fenty Beauty’s Stunna Lip Paint in "Uncensored" or MAC’s Ruby Woo are the industry icons for a reason.
- Clean up: Take a tiny bit of concealer on a flat brush and go around the edges. This makes the lines look surgically precise.
The Brows: High Arch, High Drama
If your eyebrows are naturally straight, you’re going to have to do some work. Cruella’s brows are high and arched, almost as if she’s permanently surprised by how fabulous she looks.
Use a black or dark charcoal brow pomade. Draw the arch slightly higher than your natural one. If you're feeling brave, you can use the "glue stick method" to cover your outer brow hairs and draw a new tail that flickers upward toward the temples. This gives you that "sinister" lift that is so synonymous with the character.
Real-World Expert Tips for Longevity
If you're wearing this to a convention or a long party, you have to worry about the "white mask" cracking. Makeup artist Pat McGrath, who has created countless runway looks inspired by high-fashion villains, often emphasizes the importance of layering.
Don't just put on one thick layer of makeup. Put on a thin layer, set it, then add more where you need it. This "stuccoing" technique prevents the product from moving. Also, use a setting spray that actually works. Not a refreshing mist—a sealant. Something like Skindinavia or Urban Decay All Nighter.
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What Most People Get Wrong
The biggest mistake is ignoring the neck and ears. If your face is stark white and your neck is your natural tanned self, the illusion is ruined. You don't have to paint your whole body, but at least blend the foundation down your neck and onto your earlobes.
Also, watch out for the "raccoon eye" effect. If you use too much black shadow without blending it into a transition shade (like a soft grey or even a light brown), you'll lose the shape of your eyes entirely. You want depth, not a void.
Actionable Steps for Your Cruella Transformation
Ready to try it? Here is how you actually execute this without losing your mind.
- Map the face: Before applying any pigment, use a nude liner to sketch where you want the high points of your brows and the bottom of your contour.
- Start with the eyes: Always do your eye makeup before your foundation. Because you're using dark shadows and glitters, "fallout" is inevitable. If you do your eyes first, you can just wipe away the mess under your eyes before applying that pristine white base.
- The Hair Sync: Cruella’s makeup only works if the hair is right. If you’re using a wig, pin it back securely before you start your makeup so hair fibers don't get stuck in your wet foundation.
- Check the lighting: Check your makeup in natural light if possible. White-based makeup can look very different under warm indoor bulbs versus the harsh flash of a camera. If you're going to be taking photos, do a "flash test" on your phone to see if you have any weird white-cast or "ghost face" issues.
To truly nail the Cruella De Vil makeup look, you have to lean into the attitude. This isn't a look for the shy. It’s bold, it’s loud, and it’s unapologetically glamorous. Once that red lip is on and the brows are snatched, the rest of the world basically becomes your runway. Focus on the precision of the lines and the contrast of the colors, and you’ll have a look that’s far more "vogue" than "cartoon."
To ensure your look holds up, invest in a high-quality setting powder and a blue-red matte lipstick that won't budge during dinner. Focus on sharpening those cheekbones with a cool-toned contour to achieve that signature hollowed-out, high-fashion villain aesthetic.