A lot of people think New York wine started with a hipster movement in the early 2000s. Honestly, that’s just not true. If you want the real story, you have to look at a guy who showed up in America at age 52 with absolutely no money and zero English skills.
Dr. Konstantin Frank was a Ukrainian immigrant with a PhD in viticulture and a massive chip on his shoulder. Back in the 1950s, everyone—and I mean everyone—told him it was impossible to grow European "noble" grapes in the Finger Lakes. The experts at Cornell University basically laughed at him. They said the winters were too brutal and the vines would just die.
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They were wrong.
The Vinifera Revolution that Nobody Expected
Before Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery existed, people in New York were mostly drinking wine made from native grapes like Concord or Catawba. If you’ve ever had grape jelly, you know that flavor. It’s "foxy." It’s sweet. It’s... not exactly fine wine.
Konstantin knew better because he had already grown these grapes in the Ukraine, where the temperatures dropped way lower than they ever did in Hammondsport. He realized the problem wasn't the cold; it was the rootstock. By grafting European Vitis vinifera onto hardy, native-resistant roots, he proved he could grow world-class Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.
He didn't just plant a vineyard. He started a fight.
He used to tell people that if they drank wine from native hybrids, they wouldn't get pregnant. He was famously "ornery," a polite way of saying he was a stubborn genius who didn't suffer fools. In 1962, he finally founded his own winery on the steep, slate-heavy slopes overlooking Keuka Lake.
Today, those original 1958 Riesling vines are some of the oldest in the country. They aren't just plants; they're historical monuments that happen to produce some of the most complex juice in North America.
Why You Should Care About Old Vines
You hear "old vines" thrown around a lot in wine marketing. At Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, it actually means something. The deeper the roots go—and we’re talking decades of growth here—the more they can pull nutrients and minerals from the shale-heavy soil.
Older vines also self-regulate. They don't overproduce. They yield smaller berries with thicker skins, which gives the wine more structure and a specific "tension" that younger vines just can't mimic.
The Sparkling Secret
While Konstantin was the Riesling king, his son Willy Frank was the one who pushed the envelope into bubbles. In 1985, he started making méthode champenoise sparkling wine. He actually had to buy a separate property, Chateau Frank, because his dad was so focused on table wines.
- 2021 Brut: This is the current benchmark. It spends 36 months on the lees (the yeast), which gives it that "toasted brioche" vibe.
- Blanc de Noirs: Often made from 100% Pinot Noir or a mix with Pinot Meunier. It’s rich, savory, and punches way above its price point.
The family is now in its fourth generation, with Fred and Meaghan Frank running the show. Meaghan has been modernizing things, introducing more sustainable "VineBalance" practices and opening up experimental lines like the Helm Series, which pays tribute to the women in the family.
How to Actually Visit Without Looking Like a Tourist
If you’re planning a trip to the Finger Lakes in 2026, don't just show up and expect a spot at the bar. This place gets busy. It’s located about 15 minutes from Hammondsport, and the drive up Middle Road is gorgeous but winding.
The 1886 Wine Experience is the one you want if you’re a geek. It’s a two-hour deep dive into the cellar and the vineyards, paired with small bites. It has been voted the best winery tour in America by USA Today for several years running, and for good reason. It’s not just "here is a glass of white wine." It’s an education.
If you want something chill, head to Eugenia’s Garden. It’s their outdoor space named after Konstantin’s wife. You can grab a flight or a glass, sit in the sun, and look at the lake. No reservations are needed for the garden, but it’s weather-dependent.
What to Buy (The Pro List)
Don't just walk out with a bottle of Dry Riesling. Everyone does that.
- Rkatsiteli: This is a Georgian grape variety that Konstantin brought over. It’s one of the oldest known grape varieties in the world. It’s spicy, herbal, and totally unique.
- Saperavi: Another Georgian import. It’s a "teinturier" grape, meaning the flesh is red, not just the skin. The wine is dark, inky, and massive.
- Old Vine Pinot Noir: These vines date back to 1958. It’s the second oldest Pinot Noir planting in the U.S. It’s lean, earthy, and very "Old World" in style.
The Reality of Finger Lakes Terroir
One thing people get wrong about Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery is thinking the climate is easy now because of global warming. It isn't. Keuka Lake is deep, but it’s smaller than Seneca. It can freeze over in the winter. This creates a cooler microclimate that preserves the high acidity the winery is known for.
They also dry-farm most of their acreage. No irrigation. This forces the vines to work harder, which is why the wines have that distinct mineral edge. They aren't "fruit bombs." They're cerebral.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Cellar
If you want to experience the "Vinifera Revolution" at home, start with a vertical of their Rieslings. Buy a bottle of the current "Dry Riesling" and one of the "Reserve" or "Single Vineyard" bottlings (like the Margrit or Eugenia).
Try them side-by-side. You'll notice the Reserve wines have a weight and a "petrol" note that develops over time. That petrol smell? It’s called TDN, and in high-quality Riesling, it’s a feature, not a bug.
Store these bottles at a consistent 55 degrees if you can. The top-tier Rieslings from this estate can easily age for 10 to 15 years, getting better and more complex as they sit. If you're visiting, join the Vinifera Wine Club; it’s the only way to get some of the tiny-production library releases that never make it to retail shelves.