Zagreb has changed. It's no longer just a "stopover" city on the way to the Adriatic coast. It’s a design hub, a coffee-culture capital, and, increasingly, a playground for high-end travelers who are bored of sterile, cookie-cutter glass towers. Right at the heart of this shift sits the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel.
You’ve probably seen the photos. The yellow facade, the sweeping Oleander Terrace, and that specific brand of "old world" charm that usually smells like dust and mothballs in other cities. But here, it’s different.
Honestly, the biggest misconception about the Esplanade—or the "Regent Esplanade" as many still call it, despite the brand change years ago—is that it’s a museum. People think it’s a place where you tip-toe through the lobby and speak in whispers.
It’s not. It’s actually where the city’s loudest, most interesting life happens.
Why the "Regent" Name Still Sticks (and Why It Matters)
Let’s clear up the brand confusion first. The hotel was famously part of the Regent chain from 2004 until 2012. Before that? It was the first Inter-Continental in a socialist country. Today, it’s a fiercely independent landmark.
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If you search for "Regent Esplanade Hotel Zagreb Croatia," you're looking for a ghost. The name legally died over a decade ago, but the standard it set remained. The 2004 renovation under the Regent banner, led by MKV Design out of London, is what gave the hotel its current soul: a mix of heavy Art Deco bones and 21st-century functionality.
Wait, why does this matter to you?
Because independent hotels usually go one of two ways: they either crumble without corporate oversight, or they become obsessively local. The Esplanade chose the latter. Without a corporate handbook from a HQ in London or Singapore, the staff here operates on a "yes, and" basis that you just don't find at the big chains in the city center.
The Orient Express Legacy is More Than Marketing
You'll hear the "Orient Express" mentioned in every brochure. It's easy to dismiss as a tourist trap narrative. But when you stand in the lobby, the geography makes sense.
The hotel was built in 1925 specifically because the passengers arriving at the Glavni Kolodvor (Main Station) from Paris and Istanbul had nowhere "civilized" to sleep.
- Dionis Sunko, the architect, didn't just build a hotel; he built a gateway.
- It was the first place in Croatia to host a "striptease" party (scandalous for the 20s!).
- It was the Gestapo headquarters during WWII (chilling, but true).
- It served as a soup kitchen in 1945.
This building has seen the worst and best of the 20th century. When you walk across the original parquet floors, you aren't just walking to your room. You’re walking where Josephine Baker, Alfred Hitchcock, and Elizabeth Taylor paced.
Does that make the Wi-Fi faster? No. But it makes the 11:00 PM drink at the Esplanade 1925 Lounge feel like you’re part of a timeline that actually matters.
The Food: Zinfandel’s vs. Le Bistro
If you’re staying here and you don't eat, you’ve basically failed the trip.
Most people gravitate toward Zinfandel’s. It’s the "big name" restaurant. Chef Ana Grgić Tomić has been running this kitchen for years, and she is a force. She recently secured a Michelin Green Star for the place, which is a big deal in 2026 as sustainability isn't just a buzzword anymore—it's how they source their truffles and Istrian olive oil.
But here’s the local secret: Le Bistro is where the heart is.
It’s smaller, glass-enclosed, and feels like a Parisian corner tucked into the Balkans. You go there for the Štrukli. If you haven't heard of it, it’s a traditional dough-and-cheese dish that is baked until it’s bubbling and slightly charred. They’ve been serving it since 1951. People in Zagreb literally have "Štrukli dates" here. It’s comfort food served on silver, and it’s surprisingly affordable compared to the tasting menus next door.
What it’s Actually Like to Stay (2026 Edition)
Expectations are a tricky thing. If you want a "smart room" where your iPad controls the curtains and the toilet talks to you, you might be disappointed.
The rooms are "vibe-heavy." We’re talking:
- High ceilings that make the 28-square-meter Superior rooms feel twice as big.
- Marble bathrooms that are actually marble, not the thin veneer stuff.
- Fluffy bathrobes that feel like they could absorb a whole lake.
Recently, under General Manager Ivica Max Krizmanić (who was named European Hotel Manager of the Year in 2025), the hotel has leaned hard into "invisible service." It’s that thing where you leave for breakfast and come back to find your charging cables neatly Velcro-ed and your shoes polished, without ever seeing who did it.
However, be warned: The hotel is popular. Like, really popular. During the Advent season (Zagreb’s Christmas markets are world-famous), the Oleander Terrace becomes the epicenter of the city. It’s beautiful, but it's loud. If you’re a light sleeper, ask for a room facing the park, not the terrace.
The Verdict: Is it Worth the Hype?
Look, Zagreb has newer hotels. There are chic boutiques opening up in Lower Town that have more "Instagrammable" neon signs.
But none of them have the Emerald Ballroom.
If you’re someone who appreciates the weight of a heavy door, the sound of a live pianist in the bar, and the feeling that you’re in a city’s "living room," the Esplanade is it. It’s the only hotel in Croatia that feels like it has a secret it’s waiting to tell you.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Visit
- Book the "Esplanade 1925" Tour: Most guests don't know the hotel offers a historical tour. Ask at the concierge; they’ll show you the hidden corners of the Emerald Ballroom and tell you the best Gestapo-era ghost stories.
- Order the Štrukli to-go: Yes, you can do that. They have a frozen version you can take home, but honestly, just eat it fresh at Le Bistro first.
- Check the Event Calendar: The hotel often hosts the "American Ball" or high-end fashion shows. If one is happening during your stay, the people-watching is 10/10.
- Walk to the Botanical Garden: It’s literally two minutes away. If you need a break from the "grandeur," it’s the best spot in the city to clear your head before heading back for a cocktail.
Don't just stay there because it's the "famous" place. Stay there because, in a world of temporary things, the Esplanade feels permanent.