You're scouring Craigslist at 2 AM. You see it. That slab-sided, boxy silhouette that only a Mother Mopar fan could love. Finding a 66 Dodge Dart for sale is a specific kind of addiction. It’s not the flashy Charger or the brawny Challenger that everyone sees in the movies. No, the 1966 Dart is the thinking man’s muscle car—or at least, the man who wants a reliable cruiser that won’t cost him a second mortgage.
But buying one of these today isn't like it was in 1995 when you could pick up a running GT for five hundred bucks and a case of beer. The market has shifted. Values are climbing because people finally realized these cars are actually bulletproof.
Why the 1966 model year is the weird middle child
Most people go for the '67 and up. Why? Because the '67 got the redesigned engine bay that could swallow a 440 big block without needing a shoehorn and a prayer. The 1966 is the final year of the early "A-Body" generation. It’s narrow. It’s light. It has that distinctive, almost European-looking grille and those circular taillights that look like they belong on a spaceship from a low-budget 60s sci-fi flick.
If you’re hunting for a 66 Dodge Dart for sale, you’re dealing with a car that weighs under 3,000 pounds. That’s lighter than a modern Honda Civic. When you pair that with even a mild V8, the power-to-weight ratio starts to get very interesting, very quickly.
The engine situation is basically legendary
You’ll mostly find two things under the hood of a surviving '66 Dart. First, the Slant Six. Chrysler’s "Leaning Tower of Power." It’s a 225 cubic inch straight-six tilted at a 30-degree angle. Honestly, it’s one of the best engines ever made. It’s slow. It’s noisy. It sounds like a sewing machine. But it will outlive you, your children, and probably the heat death of the universe.
Then there’s the 273 V8.
The 273 was the small-block king before the 318 and 340 took over. In the '66 Dart GT, you could get the "Commando" version with a four-barrel carb and 235 horsepower. Finding a real-deal Commando 273 car is the holy grail for this specific year. It’s zippy. It’s got that high-pitched Mopar starter whine that lets everyone in the parking lot know you’re about to leave.
What to actually look for when you're inspecting one
Don't let the shiny paint fool you. These cars were built as economy transport. They didn't have the rustproofing we have today. If you're looking at a 66 Dodge Dart for sale in the Rust Belt, bring a magnet and a flashlight. Or maybe a therapist.
Check the rear wheel wells. This is where Darts go to die. Water gets trapped in the inner fender lip and eats from the inside out. If you see bubbles in the paint right above the rear tire, the metal underneath is likely gone.
Look at the cowl. The area where the windshield meets the hood? If those drains get plugged with 50 years of pine needles and dirt, they rot. Fixing a rotted cowl involves removing the entire dashboard and cutting out the firewall. It’s a nightmare. If you see water on the floorboards after a rain, walk away unless you’re a master welder.
The torsion bar crossmember. This is crucial. Mopars don't use coil springs in the front; they use torsion bars. These bars anchor into a crossmember under the seats. If that crossmember is rusty or cracked, the front suspension is literally detached from the car's structural integrity. It’s a safety issue, not just a cosmetic one.
The weirdness of the 1966 parts market
Here is the truth: finding parts for a 1966 Dart is harder than finding them for a 1968.
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Because '66 was a one-year-only body style for many trim pieces, you can’t just flip through a catalog and find everything. The headlight bezels? Specific to '66. The grille? Good luck finding a straight one that isn't pitted to hell. The interior door panels? Different from the '65 and the '67.
Mechanical parts are easy. You can get a water pump at any local parts store for twenty bucks. Brake drums, shoes, master cylinders—all cheap and available. But if you buy a 66 Dodge Dart for sale that is missing its chrome trim or has a smashed taillight lens, you’re going to be spending months on eBay and at swap meets like Carlisle or Hershey.
A quick word on the transmission
Most of these came with the 904 Torqueflite automatic. It’s a great transmission. Shifts crisp. Lasts forever. But 1966 was the first year Mopar switched from the "push-button" shifter on the dash to a standard lever (either on the column or the floor). It makes the car feel a bit more modern, but some purists miss those buttons.
If you find a four-speed manual? Buy it. Immediately. The A-833 four-speed in an A-body is a riot to drive. It transforms the car from a "grocery getter" into a genuine vintage sports sedan.
Pricing: What should you actually pay?
The market is all over the place right now. I’ve seen baskets cases for $2,000 and pristine, survivor-grade GTs for $25,000.
- The Daily Driver ($7,000 - $11,000): This is a car with a Slant Six or a 273, maybe some faded paint, but it runs and stops. It’s got some "character" (scratches). This is the sweet spot for most hobbyists.
- The Project ($3,000 - $5,000): It doesn't run. The interior looks like a raccoon lived in it. It needs tires. But the frame is solid. If you can do the work yourself, this is a viable path.
- The Show Stopper ($18,000+): Laser-straight body, original 273 Commando, maybe the rare "D-Dart" factory drag car (though those are unicorn-rare and will cost way more).
You have to be careful with "clones." People take a basic 170 model and slap some GT badges on it. Check the VIN. A 1966 VIN starts with a letter indicating the model. 'L' is for Dart, 'P' is for Premium (GT). If the owner says it’s a GT but the VIN says otherwise, use that as leverage to drop the price.
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Customizing vs. Restoring
Honestly? Don't worry about keeping it 100% stock unless it’s a low-mile survivor.
The best thing about a 66 Dodge Dart for sale is how easy it is to upgrade. You can swap in disc brakes from a 70s Valiant or Aspen without much drama. You can drop a modern 5.7L Hemi in there if you have the budget and a good set of motor mounts from a company like Schumacher Creative Services.
The Mopar community is small but fiercely loyal. If you show up at a car show in a Dart, you’ll get more attention than the guy in the millionth red Mustang. People respect the underdog. They respect the boxy lines.
How to close the deal
When you finally find that 66 Dodge Dart for sale and you’re standing in someone’s driveway, keep your cool. Look at the tires. Are they dry-rotted? That’s $600 off the price. Is the gas old? That means the tank might be rusted inside.
Check the "Package Tray"—that flat area behind the back seats. If it's warped or DIY-cut for massive 6x9 speakers, it's a sign the previous owner was a bit of a hack. Look at the wiring under the dash. If you see a "rat's nest" of blue butt-connectors and electrical tape, you’re looking at a fire hazard.
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Real-world ownership reality
Owning a '66 Dart means you will become a part-time mechanic. You’ll learn how to adjust a carburetor. You’ll learn what a "ballast resistor" is (and you’ll keep a spare in the glovebox, because they always fail at the worst time). You’ll get used to the smell of unburned hydrocarbons and old vinyl.
It’s not for everyone. If you want Apple CarPlay and heated seats, go buy a Camry. But if you want a car that has soul, that talks back to you through the steering wheel, and that makes old men at gas stations tell you stories about their high school years, then the Dart is the one.
Immediate steps for the serious buyer
If you are ready to pull the trigger on a 66 Dodge Dart for sale, don't just wait for one to pop up on your local Facebook Marketplace. Broaden the search.
- Join the Forums: Head over to For A-Bodies Only. It is the single best resource on the planet for these cars. The classifieds there are often better than the general public sites because the sellers actually know what they have.
- Check the West Coast: If you can afford the shipping, a car from Arizona or California is worth $3,000 more just in the lack of rust. A "rust-free" car in Ohio usually means it only has some holes. A rust-free car in the desert is actually metal.
- Decode the Fender Tag: Under the hood, on the driver-side inner fender, there’s a small metal plate with rows of codes. Take a photo of it. You can use online decoders to see exactly how the car was built—paint color, interior trim, and engine options.
- Inspect the steering box: The steering in these can get "loose." If you can turn the wheel three inches before the tires move, the box is shot. It’s replaceable, but it’s a labor-intensive job on a V8 car.
Finding the right Dart takes patience. It’s about the hunt as much as the drive. Once you find a solid one, though, you’ve got a piece of American engineering that’s simple, stylish, and increasingly rare. Stop looking at the pictures and go see one in person. Just don't forget your magnet.