You’ve got a diamond face shape. Lucky you. Seriously, it’s one of the rarest out there, defined by those killer high cheekbones that basically look like they were chiseled out of granite. But here’s the thing: while your bone structure is the envy of everyone with a round face, it’s also a total nightmare to style if you don’t know what you’re doing. The narrow forehead and that pointy chin create a geometry that can make your head look a bit like a kite if you pick the wrong cut.
Getting diamond face male hairstyles right isn't about following a trend. It’s about physics. You’re trying to add width to the top and bottom to balance out those wide-set cheeks. Most guys mess this up by going too short on the sides. Big mistake. Huge. If you skin-fade the sides, your cheekbones stick out even further, making your face look incredibly pinched.
I’ve spent years looking at how different cuts interact with bone structure, and for the diamond shape, it’s all about volume and texture.
Why Your Cheekbones Are Your Best (And Worst) Feature
The diamond face is widest at the cheekbones. That’s your signature. Think Cillian Murphy or Robert Pattinson. If you look at their style evolution, they rarely go for the "high and tight" look. Why? Because when you have a narrow forehead and a narrow jaw, your cheekbones are the widest point of your skull.
If you cut the hair too close to the scalp on the sides, there’s nothing to bridge the gap between your temples and your cheeks. You end up looking like a diamond on a stick. Instead, you need "weight" around the temples. This creates the illusion of a wider forehead, which brings everything into a more "oval" (the gold standard of face shapes) alignment.
Honestly, most barbers will just give you a mid-fade because that’s what they do 40 times a day. You have to be the one to tell them to leave some bulk.
The Messy Fringe Is Your Secret Weapon
If you’re looking for the absolute safest bet, a textured, messy fringe is king. By letting the hair fall forward and over the forehead, you’re adding visual width to the top of your head. It disguises the narrowness of the hairline.
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I’m talking about something like a textured crop but with a bit more length. You want it to look like you just rolled out of bed, but in an expensive way. Use a matte clay. Avoid gels. Gels clump the hair together, which reveals the scalp and defeats the purpose of adding "bulk." You want the hair to look dense and lived-in.
A heavy fringe also softens the angularity of the face. Diamond faces are sharp. Sharp chin, sharp cheeks. Adding some messy, wavy texture on top provides a much-needed contrast to all those hard lines. It makes you look more approachable and less like a villain in a Bond movie.
Long Hair and the Diamond Shape
Can you pull off long hair? Absolutely. In fact, diamond faces are uniquely suited for mid-length to long styles.
Think about the "Man Bun" or just shoulder-length locks. When hair falls down past the ears, it hides the narrowness of the jawline. It fills in the "empty" space around your neck. If you have natural waves or curls, you’ve hit the jackpot. Let it grow.
The "Bro Flow" is a classic example. It’s tucked behind the ears, which shows off those cheekbones (show them off, don't hide them!), but the bulk of the hair sits at the back and sides, balancing the chin.
- Don’t go too long. If it hits the middle of your back, it might start dragging your features down.
- Keep it healthy. Split ends on a diamond face look twice as messy because the face shape is already so "busy" with its angles.
The Side Part: For When You Need to Look Like an Adult
Sometimes the messy fringe doesn’t work for the office. I get it. If you need something more formal, the classic side part is your go-to. But there’s a catch.
You cannot do a slicked-back, tight side part. That will make your forehead look tiny. Instead, you want a voluminous side part. Think 1950s Hollywood but with modern texture. You want the hair to have some height—a bit of a quiff at the front—before it sweeps to the side.
This height does two things. First, it elongates the top of the head. Second, the diagonal line created by the part breaks up the symmetry of the diamond, which can sometimes be a bit overwhelming.
Facial Hair: The Final Piece of the Puzzle
We can't talk about diamond face male hairstyles without talking about the beard. Your jaw is narrow. Your chin is likely a bit pointy. A beard is essentially makeup for men that allows you to "redraw" your jawline.
A thick, full beard is a diamond face's best friend. By growing out the hair on your chin and the sides of your jaw, you add the width that’s naturally missing. It squares off the face. Suddenly, you don't have a diamond shape anymore; you have a strong, masculine rectangle.
If you can’t grow a full beard, even heavy stubble helps. The key is to keep the beard shorter on the chin and slightly longer on the sides of the jaw to create that width. If you grow a long, pointy goatee, you’re just making your face look longer and pointier. Don't do that. It's a bad look.
Avoiding the "Kite Effect"
There are a few styles you should avoid at all costs.
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- The Buzz Cut: Unless you have the perfect head shape and zero insecurities, a buzz cut reveals every angle of the diamond. It’s high-risk.
- The Super High Pompadour: If you go too high without any width on the sides, you'll look like a cartoon character. Balance is everything.
- Thin, Flat Styles: If your hair is fine and you let it sit flat against your head, your cheekbones will look like they're trying to escape.
Real World Examples
Look at someone like Timothée Chalamet. He’s the poster child for the diamond/angular face. Notice how he almost never has short hair? It’s always messy, always has volume, and always has some length around the ears. He uses his hair to soften the intense angles of his face.
Then you have someone like Dane Cook back in the day. He often sported those spiky, textured looks that added width to the upper half of his head. It worked because it balanced his narrow forehead.
How to Talk to Your Barber
When you sit in the chair, don't just ask for "a trim." Tell your barber:
"I have a diamond face shape. I want to keep some weight around the temples and avoid a high fade. I need texture on top to add volume, and I want to make my forehead look a bit wider."
A good barber will know exactly what that means. If they look at you blankly, find a new barber. Seriously. Your face shape is too specific to trust to someone who only knows how to use clippers on a number two setting.
Maintenance and Styling Products
Your hair type matters just as much as the cut.
If you have thin hair, use a sea salt spray while it’s damp. Blow-dry it to get that volume. Use a light powder or a "dust" for hold. Anything heavy will weigh it down and make it look greasy.
If you have thick or curly hair, you’re in a great position. Use a leave-in conditioner or a curling cream. You want to embrace the natural bulk because it’s doing the work of balancing your face shape for you.
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Actionable Steps for Your Next Haircut
To get the most out of your look, follow these specific steps during your next grooming session:
- Audit your current look: Take a photo of yourself straight-on. Draw a line connecting your hairline, cheekbones, and chin. If it’s a clear diamond, you need width at the top.
- Grow it out: If you currently have a fade, wait 3-4 weeks. Let the hair around your temples grow until it can be styled with product.
- Experiment with the part: Try a slightly off-center part to see how it changes the perception of your forehead width.
- Invest in a matte clay: Avoid shiny pomades. Shiny hair reflects light and can make the "points" of your diamond face look even sharper. Matte finishes absorb light and create a softer look.
- Don't forget the eyebrows: Since your cheekbones and eyes are the focal point, keep your brows groomed. Don't over-pluck, but keep them tidy so they don't compete with your hair for attention.
Focus on creating volume where the face is narrow and keeping things soft where the face is wide. Your cheekbones are a gift—just make sure your hair isn't making them do all the heavy lifting.