You’ve seen them. Those dusty, hand-painted figurines sitting on a shelf in a specialized hobby shop or tucked away in the "collectibles" corner of an estate sale. Usually, it’s Dorothy as the Queen—which, honestly, is a weird choice if you’re a purist about the 1939 film—and the Cowardly Lion as a Knight. Most people think a wizard of oz chess set is just a kitschy movie tie-in, but if you’re actually trying to play a game of chess, it’s a logistical nightmare.
Chess is about clarity. You need to know, at a glance, which piece is the Bishop and which is the Pawn. In most Oz-themed sets, you’re staring at a tiny plastic Scarecrow and a tiny plastic Tin Man, trying to remember which one moves diagonally and which one is just fodder for the opening gambit. It’s frustrating. Yet, for collectors, these sets represent a weird intersection of L. Frank Baum’s literary legacy and the sheer staying power of MGM’s technicolor fever dream.
Why collectors still hunt for the Franklin Mint edition
If you talk to anyone who actually knows their stuff, they’ll bring up the Franklin Mint. Back in the day, Franklin Mint was the king of "high-end" collectibles that your grandma probably told you would be worth a fortune one day. They weren't always right, but with the wizard of oz chess set, they actually did something decent. They used pewter. They used gold accents. They didn't just slap paint on cheap resin.
The Franklin Mint set is basically the gold standard for this specific niche. It features characters on bases that are color-coded or shaped to help you identify their rank, which solves the "is this a Pawn or a Rook?" problem that plagues cheaper versions. You have the Wicked Witch as the opposing Queen and the Great and Powerful Oz—or sometimes the Wizard’s balloon—serving as the King. The craftsmanship is heavy. It feels like something. When you capture a piece, you aren't just moving a toy; you're clunking a solid hunk of metal onto the table.
Finding one today is a chore. You’re looking at eBay or specialized auction sites like LiveAuctioneers or Heritage Auctions. Expect to pay anywhere from $300 to over $800 depending on whether the original glass-domed board is intact. Most of the time, the glass is cracked. People move houses, they drop things, and suddenly your Emerald City display looks like a construction site.
The problem with modern resin "collector" sets
Let’s be real: most modern sets you find on Amazon or at gift shops are junk. They’re made of polystone or plastic resin. They look okay from five feet away, but get close and you’ll see the paint lines are messy. Dorothy has a lazy eye. The Toto piece looks like a grey blob.
The biggest issue isn't even the aesthetics; it's the weight. A good chess piece needs a weighted base. If a stiff breeze or a bumped table knocks over the entire Yellow Brick Road, you’re going to lose your mind by the middle of the endgame. Most of these sets are top-heavy because the characters—like the Winged Monkeys—have wide silhouettes but tiny footprints.
If you’re buying one of these for a kid, fine. It’s a fun way to get them into the game. But if you're a serious player? You’ll hate it. You’ll find yourself constantly asking, "Wait, is Glinda the Bishop or the Rook?" Usually, she’s the Bishop, because of the wand, I guess? But it’s never intuitive.
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Breaking down the typical character-to-piece mapping
Most manufacturers follow a predictable pattern when designing a wizard of oz chess set, though it varies slightly:
- The King: Usually the Wizard himself or the Emerald City.
- The Queen: Dorothy (Good Side) vs. The Wicked Witch (Evil Side).
- The Bishops: Glinda the Good Witch and the Scarecrow (or sometimes the Tin Man).
- The Knights: The Cowardly Lion is almost always the Knight because, well, he’s a four-legged animal. It fits.
- The Rooks: Often represented by the farmhouse or the Witch's castle towers.
- The Pawns: Munchkins for the heroes, and those green-faced Winkie Guards for the villains.
What to check before you drop $200 on a vintage set
Don't just hit "Buy It Now." I've seen too many people get burned by "complete" sets that are actually missing the most important parts. Check the noses. Seriously. In these old sets, the Tin Man’s nose and the Wicked Witch’s chin are the first things to chip off.
Look at the board. Many wizard of oz chess set versions come with a thematic board that looks like the spiral of the Yellow Brick Road. These boards are often made of pressed wood or cardboard. If there’s any water damage or warping, the pieces won't sit flat. A wobbling Dorothy is a recipe for a bad afternoon.
Ask for photos of the bottom of the pieces. Real collector sets often have felt padding. If the felt is gone, the resin or metal will scratch your board. It’s a small detail, but it’s how you tell a serious collector from someone just cleaning out their attic.
Is it actually a good game of chess?
Probably not.
The truth is that themed sets are usually decorative. The "Staunton" design—the classic look we all know—exists because it's easy to recognize. When you're playing under pressure, you don't want to think about the narrative arc of the Tin Man’s heart; you want to see a Rook.
However, if you're using it as a centerpiece for a library or a film room, it’s a massive conversation starter. It bridges the gap between high-brow strategy and pop-culture nostalgia. Just don't expect to play a high-speed blitz game with it. You'll end up snapping a Winged Monkey's wing off in the heat of the moment.
Maintenance and the "Value Trap"
If you own a pewter set, keep it out of direct sunlight. Not because the metal will melt, obviously, but because the lacquer or gold plating can flake over decades. Use a soft, dry microfiber cloth. No chemicals. No Windex. Just a light dusting.
For the resin sets, be careful with the "Munchkin Pawns." They are tiny and incredibly easy to lose. If you lose one, the set’s resale value doesn't just drop; it craters. Nobody wants a chess set with 15 pawns. It’s like a puzzle with a missing piece.
One thing people get wrong is thinking these will appreciate like a fine wine. Honestly? They mostly hold their value rather than increasing it. You’re buying this for the joy of owning a piece of Oz history, not as a retirement plan. The market for Oz memorabilia is stable because the movie is a permanent fixture of Western culture, but it's not the booming "investment" the TV infomercials in the 90s claimed it would be.
How to source a quality set today
If you're hunting for a wizard of oz chess set right now, skip the big box stores. You want to look at:
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- Estate Sales: Specifically ones that mention "Hollywood memorabilia" or "Franklin Mint." You can often find these for a steal ($50-$100) because the heirs just want the heavy stuff out of the house.
- Etsy Artisans: There are some incredible 3D-printed or hand-carved sets that actually look better than the mass-produced versions. You can find "minimalist" Oz sets that use colors and subtle shapes rather than literal character faces. These are much more playable.
- Specialty Board Game Forums: Places like BoardGameGeek have "GeekMarkets" where enthusiasts trade sets. You’re more likely to get an honest assessment of the condition there than on a random marketplace app.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you’re ready to pull the trigger, do this:
- Decide on your material first. If you want "heirloom" quality, it’s pewter or bust. If you want a toy for the kids, go with the $40 resin sets from a movie memorabilia site.
- Measure your space. Some of these sets, especially the ones with the Emerald City boards, have a massive footprint—sometimes 20x20 inches or more. Make sure your coffee table can actually hold it.
- Verify the "Hero/Villain" split. Some cheap knock-offs just use the same characters for both sides but change the base color. It’s confusing and lazy. Make sure your set actually pits the heroes against the Wicked Witch's forces.
- Check the Rook height. In some poorly designed sets, the Rooks (the castles/houses) are shorter than the Pawns (the Munchkins). It looks ridiculous on the board. Look for a set with a clear height hierarchy.
The best way to enjoy a themed set is to treat it as art first and a game second. Set it up on a mid-game position—maybe a famous chess puzzle—and let it sit. It looks way better than a finished game or a starting lineup. It gives the characters "action" and makes the whole display feel alive.