You’ve just touched down. Outside the window, the landscape looks like the surface of the moon—black lava rock, biting wind, and that weirdly clear Icelandic light. You’re at KEF. Most people call it Reykjavik Airport, but honestly, it’s in Keflavik, about 45 minutes away from the capital. If you’re staring at a Keflavik International Airport map on your phone while shuffling through the jet bridge, you’re already ahead of the game.
Iceland's main hub is a bit of a maze. It’s not that it’s massive like Heathrow or O'Hare, but it has grown in weird, organic spurts over the last decade. It’s lopsided. One minute you’re in a sleek, Nordic-designed glass hall, and the next, you’re squeezed into a basement-level bus gate that feels like a bunker.
Why the Layout is So Confusing
The Leif Erikson Air Terminal is the heart of the operation. It’s essentially one big building, but it’s split into two main areas: the North Building and the South Building.
Here is the kicker. You’ll spend most of your time in the departures hall on the second floor if you’re leaving or connecting. If you’re arriving from outside the Schengen Area—think USA, Canada, or the UK—you’re going to be doing a lot of walking. Like, a lot. The Keflavik International Airport map shows a long pier stretching out into the tarmac. That’s where the big planes live.
It’s easy to get turned around.
The airport underwent a massive expansion recently. They added the "East Wing." It’s gorgeous. It has these floor-to-ceiling windows where you can watch the clouds roll over the Reykjanes Peninsula. But it also means the walking distances have doubled since 2015. If your gate is in the C or D range, don't linger at the duty-free shop too long. You might have a 15-minute brisk walk ahead of you.
The Schengen vs. Non-Schengen Split
This is where travelers usually mess up. Iceland is part of the Schengen Agreement. If you are flying to Paris, Berlin, or Oslo, you stay in the "internal" zone. No passport control. You just walk to your gate.
But if you’re heading back to New York or London? You have to pass through passport control. This happens in the middle of the terminal. On many maps, this is marked by a clear boundary line. Once you cross that passport line into the non-Schengen gates (usually the D gates), there’s no going back to the main shopping area.
You’re stuck.
There are a few shops and a small cafe back there, but the "good" stuff—the big 66 North store and the high-end Icelandic design shops—is all in the main lounge. Check your gate on the Keflavik International Airport map before you commit to crossing that border. If your flight is delayed and you’ve already cleared passport control, you’re going to be sitting in a much smaller, more crowded area for a long time.
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Where to Actually Eat and Shop
Iceland is expensive. We all know this. But the duty-free at KEF is actually one of the few places where you can get a "deal," especially on alcohol. Locals do it too. You’ll see Icelanders landing from a flight and immediately sprinting to the arrival duty-free to stock up on slabs of Gull beer or bottles of Brennivín.
Why? Because the state-run liquor stores (Vínbúðin) have limited hours and much higher taxes.
If you’re looking for food, the upper level of the main terminal is your best bet. There’s a place called Jómfrúin that does traditional Scandinavian open-faced sandwiches. They’re pricey but legitimate. For something faster, there’s usually a Joe & The Juice. It’s a staple here.
Navigating the Ground Floor: Arrivals and Car Rentals
When you land and grab your bags, you’ll emerge into the arrivals hall. It’s usually chaotic. If you look at a Keflavik International Airport map for the ground floor, you’ll see the exit leads directly to the bus stops and the taxi rank.
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The Flybus is the most common way to get to Reykjavik. The tickets are available at kiosks right by the luggage carousels. Don't wait until you're outside in the rain to buy them.
Car rentals are a different story. Some companies, like Hertz or Avis, have desks right there in the terminal. Others—the smaller, cheaper ones—require a shuttle bus ride. Look for the "Car Rental Shuttle" signs outside. It’s a little yellow bus that loops around the various rental lots nearby. If you try to walk it with three suitcases in a gale-force wind, you’ll regret it. Trust me.
Hidden Gems and Quiet Spots
If you have a long layover, the airport can feel claustrophobic. However, if you head toward the newer C gates, there are often quieter seating areas with power outlets.
Most people congregate near the center of the terminal because that’s where the food is. If you just need to charge your phone and stare at a screen, move toward the extremities of the building. The math is simple: the further you are from the duty-free perfume section, the more likely you are to find a seat.
Is there a lounge? Yeah, the Icelandair Saga Lounge. It’s upstairs. It’s fancy. If you have the right status or a business class ticket, go there. They have actual Icelandic sourdough and a fireplace. It’s a vibe.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
Don't just wing it. KEF is efficient but unforgiving if you're late.
- Download a digital map before you land. Cell service in the terminal is great, but having an offline PDF of the Keflavik International Airport map saves you the hassle of hunting for a physical directory board when you're in a rush.
- Time your transit. If you are connecting from the US to Europe, you’ll likely arrive at a D gate and depart from an A or B gate. Allow at least 45 minutes for this, as you have to clear passport entry into the Schengen zone. The lines can be long if three Dreamliners land at the same time.
- Check the gate monitors constantly. Gate assignments at KEF change frequently. Just because your app said Gate A12 three hours ago doesn't mean it's still there.
- Fill your water bottle. Icelandic tap water is some of the best in the world. There are filtration stations near the restrooms. Don't pay $5 for a plastic bottle of the exact same stuff.
- Tax-Free Refunds. If you’ve been shopping in Reykjavik and have your forms ready, the Arion Bank desk in the departures area is where you get your cash back. Do this before you check your luggage in case they want to see the items, though they rarely do.
The layout of Keflavik is a reflection of Iceland itself: a mix of old utility and striking modernism. It’s a functional space that struggles with its own popularity. By understanding the split between the North and South buildings and knowing exactly where that passport control line sits, you turn a potentially stressful layover into a smooth transition. Keep your eyes on the signs, stay hydrated with that free volcanic water, and give yourself more time than you think you need to walk to the far ends of the pier.