You’ve probably seen those Pinterest photos where a woman’s hair looks like a cascading, intricate work of art. It’s thick. It’s textured. It looks like it took three hours and a team of professional stylists to assemble. Honestly, most people see a fishtail plait step by step tutorial and think, "Nope, my fingers don't move that way."
It looks intimidating.
Unlike a standard three-strand braid that we all learned in elementary school, the fishtail relies on a weirdly counter-intuitive two-strand system. It’s actually simpler in theory but way harder to master if you’re rushing. If you’ve ever tried it and ended up with a tangled nesting doll of hair that looks more like a messy bun gone wrong, you aren't alone. Most of us fail because we try to move too much hair at once.
The secret isn't in your hands. It’s in the tension.
The Anatomy of the Perfect Fishtail Plait
Before we even touch a comb, let’s talk about why this style works. A traditional braid overlaps thick chunks of hair, creating a bulky, rope-like structure. A fishtail, or "herringbone" braid as some old-school stylists call it, uses tiny slivers. This creates a flat, wide surface that catches the light differently.
Professional stylists like Jen Atkin—the woman responsible for basically every Kardashian hair moment—often emphasize that the fishtail is the ultimate "cheat" style. Why? Because it actually looks better when it’s a little bit lived-in. If you make it too perfect, it looks like a plastic doll’s hair. You want character. You want that slightly fuzzy, effortless vibe that says, "I just woke up like this," even though you spent twenty minutes in front of the bathroom mirror sweating.
Prepping the Canvas (Don't Skip This)
If you try to do a fishtail plait step by step on freshly washed, silk-smooth hair, you’re going to hate yourself. It will slip. It will slide. Your arms will get tired before you even reach your ears.
Dry shampoo is your best friend here. Or sea salt spray. You need "grit." According to hair experts at Bumble and bumble, the texture of the hair determines the longevity of the braid. If your hair is too clean, the tiny slivers you’re crossing over will just merge back into the main sections. You need them to stay separate.
Grab a brush. Get the knots out. If you have fine hair, maybe tease the roots a little bit just to give the braid some "anchor" at the top.
The Real Fishtail Plait Step by Step Breakdown
Okay, let's get into the actual movement. Forget everything you know about three-strand braids. We are working with two main sections. Just two.
First, split the hair. Divide your hair—or the section you’re braiding—into two equal halves. Hold one in your left hand and one in your right. This is your base.
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The "Sliver" Move.
Take a tiny, thin piece of hair from the outside edge of the right section. This piece should be no thicker than a pencil. Cross it over the top of the right section and tuck it under the left section. Now, it’s part of the left side.
Repeat on the left.
Take a tiny sliver from the outside of the left section. Cross it over the left and tuck it under the right.
That’s it.
That is the entire rhythm of the fishtail plait step by step. Right to left, left to right. The smaller the pieces, the more intricate the braid looks. If you take big chunks, it ends up looking like a weirdly distorted regular braid.
Why Your Arms Hurt and How to Stop It
Most people fail at the six-inch mark. Your deltoids start screaming. You lose your grip.
Here is a pro tip: Once you get past the nape of your neck, pull the braid over your shoulder to the front. This changes the angle of your hands, but you have to be careful. When you flip the hair over your shoulder, the direction of the "over-under" movement stays the same, but your perspective shifts. Keep the tension tight. If you let go, the whole thing unspools like a cheap sweater.
Common Mistakes That Ruin the Look
Let's be real—the first time you do this, it might look like a disaster.
- Uneven Sections: If one half of your hair is thicker than the other, the braid will lean. It’ll look lopsided.
- The "Gap" at the Nape: This is the most common issue. When people transition from braiding behind their head to braiding over the shoulder, they leave a loose loop of hair at the base of the neck.
- Too Much Hair: People get impatient. They start taking inch-wide chunks. Suddenly, the "fish" look disappears and you just have a lumpy mess.
To fix the "gap," make sure you’re pulling the strands down and back as you work, not out away from your head. Gravity is your enemy until the braid is secured with an elastic.
The "Pancaking" Secret
This is where the magic happens. A tight fishtail looks okay, but a "pancaked" fishtail looks expensive.
Once you’ve tied off the end with a clear elastic (pro tip: use those tiny plastic ones, not the thick fabric ones), start at the bottom of the braid. Gently, and I mean gently, tug at the outer loops of the braid to pull them outward. This flattens the braid and makes it look twice as thick.
If you do this right, you transform a skinny little plait into a voluminous masterpiece. If you do it wrong, you pull the whole strand out and have to start over. Use your thumb and forefinger. Just a tiny wiggle.
Variations for Different Hair Types
Not all hair is created equal. A fishtail plait step by step for someone with waist-length thick hair is a different beast than for someone with a shoulder-length lob.
For Short Hair:
Focus on a "French" fishtail. This starts at the crown of the head. You pick up new hair from the scalp as you go, just like a French braid, but using the two-strand fishtail method. It’s great for keeping bangs out of your face.
For Curly Hair:
Actually, you guys have it easiest. The natural texture of curly or coily hair holds the braid in place like Velcro. You don't even really need the "grit" products. However, be careful not to pull too hard, or you’ll lose the definition of your curls when you take the braid down later.
For Fine Hair:
You absolutely must use a volumizing powder. Products like Design.ME Puff.ME or even just a bit of cornstarch at the roots can give your hair the "oomph" it needs to not look like a rat's tail.
The Tools of the Trade
You don't need much, but a few specific items make this whole process way less of a headache.
- A Rat-Tail Comb: Essential for getting that perfectly straight center part before you start the fishtail plait step by step.
- Clear Elastics: Get the ones that match your hair color or are transparent. Big scrunchies at the end of a fishtail look dated and heavy.
- Hairspray (Medium Hold): You want something that allows for movement. If you use "helmet-head" spray, you won't be able to pancake the braid later.
- Dry Texture Spray: This is better than hairspray for the actual braiding process.
Beyond the Basics: The Side-Swept Look
If you’re wearing this to a wedding or a formal event, the side-swept fishtail is the gold standard. It’s romantic. It’s soft.
Start by gathering all your hair over one shoulder. Secure it with a "disposable" hair tie—one you don't mind cutting off later. Braid the hair using the fishtail plait step by step method. Once you're finished and the bottom is secured, take a pair of scissors and carefully snip the top hair tie.
This allows the top of the braid to loosen naturally around your face, giving you those soft, face-framing pieces without risking the whole braid falling apart while you’re working on it. It's a classic bridal trick.
Real-World Maintenance
How long does it last?
In my experience, a well-constructed fishtail can survive a workday and maybe even a gym session if you aren't doing high-intensity cardio. The beauty of it is that as it gets messier, it often looks better. The "fuzz" adds to the bohemian vibe.
If you want to sleep in it, use a silk pillowcase. Cotton will grab the hair fibers and pull them out of the braid, leaving you with a frizzy mess in the morning. A silk scarf tied around the hair also works wonders if you want to rock "braid waves" the next day.
Actionable Next Steps
Ready to try it? Don't just read about it.
Start by practicing on a small section of hair on the side of your head where you can see what you’re doing in the mirror. Don't try to do the whole back of your head on the first go.
Grab a texturizing spray—something like Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray if you’re feeling fancy, or a drugstore version like Not Your Mother’s. Spray it liberally through your mid-lengths.
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Divide that side section into two. Take a tiny sliver from the back, cross it to the front. Take a tiny sliver from the front, cross it to the back. Do this for just three inches. Tie it off. Look at the pattern. Once you see the "V" shape forming, you’ve mastered the mechanics.
The rest is just muscle memory and patience. Stop worrying about making it perfect. The most stylish fishtails are the ones that look like they've seen a bit of wind and a long day.
Finish the look by gently tugging the edges to widen the braid. If a few strands fall out around your face, leave them. It adds to the softness. You've now moved past the basic braid and into a style that actually has some personality.
Keep your movements small, your tension consistent, and your expectations realistic for the first few tries. Before long, you'll be doing this without even looking in the mirror.