There is a weird, persistent rumor that circles back every few months. People swear up and down that some massive European conglomerate like LVMH or Kering quietly scooped up Gallery Dept. It makes sense, right? Usually, when a brand starts appearing on every NBA tunnel walk and gets name-dropped in half the tracks on the Billboard Hot 100, the "suits" have already moved in.
But honestly? That’s just not what’s happening here.
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If you’re looking for a board of directors or a shadowy private equity group, you’re going to be disappointed. Gallery Dept is owned and operated by its founder, Josué Thomas. It is a fiercely independent entity, which is exactly why the brand is so confusing, frustrating, and brilliant all at the same time. Thomas doesn't just own the name; he is the engine, the creative director, and the guy who famously tried to "kill" the brand when it got too popular for his own taste.
The Man Behind the Splatter: Who Is Josué Thomas?
To understand the ownership, you have to understand the person. Josué Thomas isn't a traditional fashion mogul. He grew up in Los Angeles, the son of two artists, which basically explains everything about his aesthetic. His father, Stefan Gilbert, actually had a womenswear label back in the day, so the "garment business" was in his blood, even if he didn't want to follow the corporate path.
Before he was selling $800 hoodies, Thomas was a tailor at Ralph Lauren. That’s where he learned the rules he eventually decided to break. In 2017, he officially launched Gallery Dept, but the vibe was always more "art project" than "fashion house." He started by repurposing vintage Levi’s and car coats in a 6,000-square-foot studio on Beverly Boulevard.
He didn't have a marketing team. He had a sewing machine and a very specific vision of what "luxury" should look like. To him, luxury wasn't a pristine gold logo; it was a pair of flared carpenter pants that looked like they’d been dragged through a construction site and then spray-painted by a local vandal.
That Time Gallery Dept "Closed" (But Didn't)
This is the part that trips up most people searching for the company's status. In September 2021, Josué Thomas dropped a bombshell on Instagram. He announced that he was withdrawing from the fashion industry. He posted this long, slightly cryptic message about how the industry was "polluting" minds and the environment. He even said, "I detest making disposable product."
The internet went into a tailspin. Resale prices on Grailed and StockX shot up instantly. People thought the brand was dead.
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But here’s the thing about owning 100% of your company: you can change your mind whenever you want.
Despite the "funeral" for the brand, Gallery Dept didn't disappear. Instead, Thomas shifted the focus. He launched the Art That Kills project and opened a new flagship in Miami. He didn't sell out to a corporation; he just hit the reset button on his own terms. By 2022 and 2023, the brand was back in full swing with high-profile collaborations with Lanvin and Vans. It turns out "withdrawing from the fashion industry" was more of a philosophical shift than a legal dissolution of the LLC.
Why Gallery Dept Ownership Matters in 2026
We live in an era where "authenticity" is a buzzword used by people who definitely aren't authentic. Because Josué Thomas still holds the keys, the brand maintains a level of gatekeeping that drives the mainstream crazy.
- Production stays in-house: A huge chunk of their high-end stuff is still handled right in Los Angeles. This isn't mass-produced in a factory that pumps out fast fashion.
- No outside investors: Without a board of directors demanding 20% growth every quarter, Thomas can afford to be "difficult." He can stop a product line because he doesn't like the vibe.
- The "Artist" Label: Thomas insists on being called an artist, not a designer. When you own the company, nobody can tell you otherwise.
The ownership structure—officially under Gallery Department, LLC—is registered in California. As of 2026, those trademark filings and business registrations still point back to the same home base in LA. There’s no evidence of a buyout or a merger.
The Lanvin Connection: Did They Buy In?
People often see the "Lanvin x Gallery Dept" logos and assume a merger happened. Lanvin is owned by the Lanvin Group (formerly Fosun Fashion Group), a massive Chinese conglomerate. When the two brands collaborated, it wasn't a takeover; it was a bridge.
Lanvin needed the street cred and the "cool factor" that Thomas has in spades. Thomas got access to the resources of a historic Parisian house. It was a partnership of convenience, but the ownership of Gallery Dept remained firmly with Thomas. If anything, the collaboration proved that an independent artist from LA could stand toe-to-toe with a global luxury giant without giving up the deed to his house.
What You Need to Know Moving Forward
If you’re looking to invest or just curious about the brand's stability, here is the ground truth.
1. Verify the tags: Because Gallery Dept is independent and uses vintage blanks, fakes are everywhere. Authentic pieces have specific distressing and "Art That Kills" branding that is hard to replicate perfectly.
2. Follow the "Art That Kills" project: This is where Josué Thomas is putting a lot of his energy now. It's more of a "cultural platform" than just a clothing brand, covering music, furniture, and film.
3. Expect the unexpected: Since there is no corporate oversight, the brand could "close" again tomorrow if Thomas feels like the "monotony" is returning. That’s the risk and the reward of following an artist-owned brand.
The most important takeaway? Gallery Dept isn't a "brand" in the way Nike or Gucci is. It’s a reflection of one guy's mood and his obsession with vintage textiles. As long as Josué Thomas owns it, expect it to remain unpredictable, expensive, and deeply personal.
Actionable Next Steps:
To ensure you are buying from the actual owner and not a third-party reseller or a counterfeit operation, only purchase directly through the official gallerydept.com website or verified luxury retailers like SSENSE or Mr. Porter. If you're interested in the creative evolution of the brand, check out the Art That Kills platform, which serves as the current home for Thomas's multidisciplinary work.