You finally bought that 75-inch OLED. It’s thin. It’s sleek. It’s basically a piece of digital art hanging in your living room, until you step back and see it: a tangled, black "waterfall" of cables spilling down to the floor. Honestly, it ruins the vibe completely. So, you start Googling how to hide wires in the wall because you want that clean, floating look you see on Pinterest.
But here’s the thing. Most people just grab a utility knife and start cutting drywall without thinking about what's actually behind the paint. Or worse, they tuck a standard power cord—the one that came with the TV—directly into the wall. That is a massive mistake. Like, a "your insurance might not cover the fire" kind of mistake.
The Fire Code Reality Most People Ignore
Before you touch a single tool, we have to talk about the National Electrical Code (NEC). Specifically, Article 400.8. It basically says that flexible cords (like the power cable on your TV or Xbox) aren't allowed to be run through holes in walls, ceilings, or floors. Why? Because those cords aren't rated for the heat buildup that happens in a closed wall cavity. They can also be easily damaged by sharp metal studs or even curious rodents, and if they start a fire inside the wall, you won't know until the smoke is everywhere.
If you want to hide wires in the wall safely, you need a power relocation kit. These are "in-wall rated" systems. Companies like Legrand or PowerBridge make these kits that basically act as an extension cord built into the wall. You get a recessed outlet behind the TV and a "power inlet" down by the floor. You connect the two with Romex—the same heavy-duty wire used for the rest of your house’s wiring—and then plug the bottom into a nearby wall outlet with a jumper cord. It’s code-compliant, it’s safe, and it won't void your homeowner's insurance.
Checking for Obstructions (The Knock Test is a Lie)
Think your wall is empty? Think again.
I’ve seen people start cutting only to hit a massive HVAC return duct or a plumbing stack. If you live in an older home, you might even find noggin headers (horizontal fire blocks) between the studs. These are pieces of wood installed horizontally to slow down the spread of fire. If you hit one of those, your "simple" project just turned into a nightmare of drilling through solid timber from a weird angle.
Use a high-quality stud finder. Not the $10 one that beeps at everything. Get one that detects AC wiring and metal. Franklin Sensors makes some of the most reliable ones because they use multiple sensors to show you the entire width of the stud. If the stud finder starts flashing like crazy, there’s likely a high-voltage line right where you wanted to cut. Don't be a hero. Move your hole two inches to the left.
The Physical Process of Running the Lines
Okay, let's say the coast is clear. You’ve got your kit. You’ve got your drywall saw.
First, trace the template provided with your brush plates or power kit. Use a level. Nothing screams "amateur hour" like a crooked outlet plate, even if it is behind the TV. When you cut, don't just jam the saw in deep. There might be a rogue wire or a plastic pipe just an inch behind the drywall. Shallow, controlled cuts are your best friend here.
Once the holes are open, you need to "fish" the wires. If you're lucky and there’s no insulation, gravity does the work. Just tie a nut to a string, drop it down, and grab it at the bottom. But if you have exterior walls with fiberglass insulation? You’re going to need glow rods or a fish tape. It’s a literal battle against the fluff.
Essential Tools for the Job:
- Drywall saw (fixed blade is better than folding).
- Fish tape or fiberglass glow rods.
- Phillips head screwdriver (for the "wings" on the junction boxes).
- Wire strippers (if you're doing the power relocation kit).
- A vacuum. Seriously. Drywall dust gets into everything—your carpet, your lungs, and even the vents of your brand-new TV.
What About HDMI and Data Cables?
While we’re talking about how to hide wires in the wall, don't forget the low-voltage stuff. HDMI cables, Ethernet, and Toslink (optical) cables don't carry high voltage, so they don't have the same fire risks as power cords, but they still need to be "CL2" or "CL3" rated for in-wall use. This means the outer jacket won't emit toxic fumes if it catches fire.
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Pro tip: always run more than you think you need. If you think you need two HDMI cables, run three. Or better yet, run a piece of 1-inch flexible conduit (smurf tube) between the holes. That way, when HDMI 3.0 or whatever comes out in five years, you can just pull the new cable through without cutting into your wall again. It’s future-proofing 101.
The Rental Loophole
Maybe you’re renting an apartment and your landlord is the type who loses their mind over a thumbtack hole. You obviously can't go cutting 4-inch squares out of the drywall.
In this case, you have two real options. One is a cord cover (raceway). These are plastic channels that stick to the wall and can be painted the exact same color as your paint. If you take the time to sand them and use a high-quality primer, they actually disappear pretty well.
The second option is a "fabric cord wrap." It sounds low-tech, but if you bunch your wires together and wrap them in a neutral-colored sleeve, it looks intentional and organized rather than chaotic. It’s not "in the wall," but it’s the next best thing for your security deposit.
Brick, Concrete, and the "Hidden" Struggles
If you’re trying to hide wires in the wall and that wall happens to be solid brick or concrete (common in lofts or basement suites), stop. Just stop. You are not going to "fish" wires through solid masonry.
You either have to build a "bump-out" wall—basically a thin frame of 2x4s and drywall over the brick—or you have to use surface-mounted conduit. Some people lean into the industrial look and use galvanized steel EM tube. It actually looks pretty cool if your decor fits that vibe. Otherwise, you’re looking at a major construction project involving a masonry channeler and a lot of mortar. Usually not worth it for a TV.
Finishing Touches and Aesthetics
Once the wires are through, don't just leave a gaping hole. Use brush plates or "nose" plates. These have a little rubber or bristle opening that lets the cables out while keeping the hole looking finished. It also prevents bugs or drafts from coming out of your wall.
Tighten the screws until the plate is flush. If the drywall crumbles—which happens a lot in older houses—you might need to use "old work" boxes that grip the back of the drywall for stability.
Actionable Steps for a Clean Setup
Getting this right isn't just about the tools; it's about the sequence. If you mess up the order, you'll end up with a wall full of "oops" holes.
- Identify the Wall Type: Tap the wall. If it sounds hollow, it’s drywall. If it sounds like a rock, it’s masonry.
- Locate Studs: Mark them with painter's tape so you don't leave pencil marks on your wall. You want to cut between the studs.
- Buy the Right Kit: Look for an "In-Wall TV Power and Cable Management Kit." Ensure it includes a recessed outlet.
- Check Cable Lengths: Most people forget that running wires inside a wall takes more length than running them straight. If your HDMI cable is exactly 6 feet, and your TV is 5 feet up, it won't reach once it goes into the wall and back out. Buy 10-foot cables.
- Test Before Closing: Plug everything in and make sure the TV turns on and the HDMI signal works before you screw the plates into the wall. There is nothing worse than finishing the job only to find out you have a dead cable.
Hiding wires isn't just about vanity. It’s about creating a space that feels calm and organized. When you remove that visual clutter, the whole room feels bigger. Just do it the right way—safely and legally—so you can actually enjoy your Netflix binge without worrying about the electrical work behind the screen.