You've seen them on Instagram. Those gorgeous, accordion-fanned spuds that look like they belong in a Michelin-star dining room but somehow end up on a random Tuesday night dinner plate. They're impressive. They're also, quite frankly, a massive pain if you don't know the trick. If you’ve ever wondered how do you make hasselback potatoes without ending up with a raw center or a pile of mushy starch, you aren't alone. Most people mess these up on the first try.
They're basically a cross between a French fry and a baked potato. Crisp on the edges. Fluffy in the middle.
But here is the thing: if you just slice a potato and throw it in the oven, you’re going to be disappointed. It won't fan out. The butter won't get inside. It'll just be a weirdly cut baked potato. To get that iconic look—and more importantly, that texture—you need to understand the physics of the tuber. It sounds nerdy, but it's the difference between a soggy mess and a side dish people actually fight over.
The Secret Technique: Why Your Hasselbacks Don't Fan Out
The biggest mistake is fear. You’re afraid of cutting all the way through the potato. I get it. If you snip the "spine" of the potato, the whole thing falls apart and now you're just making thick-cut chips.
Stop guessing.
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Get two wooden spoons or a pair of chopsticks. Place the potato between them. Now, when you slice down, the knife hits the wood before it hits the cutting board. It’s a physical fail-safe. This allows you to cut about 75% of the way through, leaving a solid base that holds everything together while the top opens up like a book.
Choosing the Right Spud
Don't use waxy potatoes. Red bliss or fingerlings look cute, but they hold too much moisture. You want starch. You want the Russet. Or, if you’re feeling fancy and live in the UK or have a great importer, a King Edward or Maris Piper. These varieties have a high starch content that dehydrates beautifully in the high heat of the oven, leading to those shatters-on-impact edges.
Honestly, even a Yukon Gold works if you’re careful, because they bring a buttery flavor that Russets lack, but you'll sacrifice a bit of that extreme crunch.
How Do You Make Hasselback Potatoes: The Double-Bake Method
Most recipes tell you to brush with butter and bake. They’re wrong.
If you coat a cold, raw potato in fat and shove it in the oven, the starch doesn't have time to release. The slices stick together. You need the "Two-Stage Polish" method.
First, rinse your sliced potatoes under cold water. Yes, even after cutting. You want to wash away the excess surface starch that acts like glue. Pat them bone-dry. If they're wet, they steam. Steaming is the enemy of crispy.
Now, the first bake.
Rub them with a high-smoke-point oil—think avocado or grapeseed oil—and a generous amount of kosher salt. Bake at $425°F$ ($220°C$) for about 30 minutes. At this point, they won't look done. They’ll look pale and slightly sad. But look closer. The heat has caused the slices to start pulling apart. They are "blooming."
This is your window.
The Flavor Infusion
Now you bring in the butter. If you use butter at the start, the milk solids burn before the potato is cooked. By waiting until the 30-minute mark, you're adding flavor right when the potato is open enough to receive it.
Mix melted unsalted butter with smashed garlic, thyme, or rosemary. Take a pastry brush and really get in there. Drip it into the crevices. Every single one. This is where the magic happens. Put them back in for another 20 to 30 minutes. The edges will turn mahogany brown. The garlic will toast. The kitchen will smell like heaven.
Common Pitfalls and Historical Context
Did you know these started at the Hasselbacken hotel in Stockholm back in the 1950s? A chef trainee named Leif Elisson is often credited with the creation. Back then, they were a luxury. Today, they're a Pinterest staple, but the original Swedish version, Hasselbackspotatis, usually involves a topping of breadcrumbs and parmesan.
If you skip the breadcrumbs, you're missing a layer of texture that the Swedes perfected decades ago. A light dusting of panko mixed with parmesan in the last 10 minutes of cooking creates a crust that is honestly addictive.
Why Temperature Matters
Don't go low and slow. This isn't a pot roast. If your oven is at $350°F$, you're just baking a potato slowly. You need the thermal shock of $400°F$ or higher to blister the skin. Professional kitchens often use convection settings to keep the air moving, which helps strip moisture away from the potato's surface even faster. If you have a "fan" or "convection" setting on your oven, use it. Just drop the temp by about $25°F$ to compensate for the efficiency.
Nuance in Seasoning: Beyond Salt and Pepper
Standard salt is fine, but smoked salt changes the game. Or better yet, use a bit of duck fat instead of butter.
Duck fat has a higher smoke point and a richness that makes a standard Russet taste like a steakhouse side dish. If you're vegan, a high-quality olive oil works, but you'll want to add a pinch of nutritional yeast or MSG to the oil to mimic that savory "umami" hit that butter provides.
Don't add fresh herbs like parsley or cilantro at the beginning. They will turn into black, bitter specks. Save the fresh greens for the very end, right before you hit the table. Chives are the classic choice for a reason—they cut through the fat.
Beyond the Potato: Variations That Work
Once you master the basic technique, you can apply this to other vegetables, though the results vary.
- Sweet Potatoes: They have way more sugar, so they burn fast. You have to drop the temp to $375°F$ and watch them like a hawk.
- Zucchini: It’s too watery. Honestly? Don't bother. It ends up as a soggy mess.
- Butternut Squash: This works surprisingly well but requires a very sharp knife and a lot of patience.
The potato remains king because of its structural integrity. It can handle the heat.
Practical Next Steps for Your Kitchen
Ready to try it? Don't overthink it. Grab two Russets tonight.
- Find your guards. Use those chopsticks. It’s the only way to ensure you don't cut through.
- Space your cuts. Aim for roughly 1/8th of an inch. Too thick and they don't crisp; too thin and they turn into chips.
- The Rinse. Don't skip the starch rinse. It’s the difference between a fused block of potato and individual crispy leaves.
- The Second Basting. Only add your garlic and aromatics halfway through. Burnt garlic is bitter and will ruin the whole batch.
- Finish with Acid. A tiny squeeze of lemon or a drop of malt vinegar right before serving brightens the whole dish and cuts through the heavy butter.
You’ve got this. The first one might be a bit wonky, but by the third potato, you’ll be a pro. Just remember: heat, fat, and starch management. That is the trinity of the perfect Hasselback.