You’re standing in front of the bathroom mirror with a pair of kitchen shears. Stop. Seriously, put the poultry shears down. We’ve all been there—that late-night impulse where you decide your entire identity needs a shift, and somehow, side bangs feel like the cheapest therapy available. But there is a massive difference between the effortless, wispy fringe you see on Alexa Chung and the accidental "staircase" effect that happens when you lose your nerve halfway through a snip.
Learning how to cut in side bangs isn't actually about the cutting. It's about the geometry.
If you mess up the sectioning, no amount of fancy blending will save you. Most people grab a random hunk of hair from the front and hope for the best. That’s how you end up with bangs that start too far back on your crown or, worse, "side" bangs that somehow migrate to the center of your forehead like a confused cowlick. Honestly, it’s all in the triangle.
The gear you actually need (No, not kitchen scissors)
Professional stylists like Jen Atkin or Chris Appleton don't use the same tools they use to open Amazon packages. If you use dull scissors, the blade will push the hair as it cuts rather than slicing through it. This results in a jagged, uneven line that looks "chewed."
Go get a pair of actual hair shears. You can find them at any drugstore for fifteen bucks. You also need a fine-tooth rattail comb. This is non-negotiable for clean lines. You’ll want some clips—alligator clips are best—to keep the rest of your hair out of the danger zone.
And please, work on dry hair.
I know, I know. Your stylist cuts it wet. But they have years of training to account for "shrinkage." When hair is wet, it stretches. When it dries, it bounces up. If you cut your side bangs to your cheekbone while they’re soaking wet, they’re going to end up at your eyebrow once they’re dry. Unless you’re going for a 1920s flapper vibe, stick to dry, styled hair so you see exactly where the length lands in real-time.
Sectioning: The make-or-break moment
Find your natural part. Most people have a side part when they’re doing side-swept bangs, which makes sense. From that part, you’re going to create a triangular section.
The point of the triangle should start about an inch or two back from your hairline, aligned with the highest point of your eyebrow arch. Use the tail of your comb to draw a diagonal line down to the outer corner of your eye. Do the same on the other side.
Comb this section forward. Everything else? Clip it back. I mean it. If a stray long piece gets caught in your shears, you’re looking at a six-month regrowth commitment you didn't sign up for. Look in the mirror. Does the section look balanced? It should look like a small slice of pie resting on your forehead.
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How to cut in side bangs using the "twist" method
This is the secret weapon for beginners. It’s a technique used to create a natural slope without having to master complex hand angles.
- Hold your sectioned hair between your index and middle fingers.
- Pull it forward, but keep it loose. Don’t pull it taut like a guitar string, or you’ll over-cut.
- Twist the hair once. If you want your bangs to sweep to the right, twist the hair toward the left. If you want them to sweep to the left, twist toward the right.
- Slide your fingers down to where you want the shortest part of the bang to be. Usually, that’s the bridge of the nose or the tip of the nose.
Now, take your shears. Don't cut straight across. Hold the scissors at an upward angle and "point cut" into the ends. This creates a soft, feathered edge instead of a blunt, heavy block of hair. Basically, you’re nibbling away at the length rather than lopping it off.
Once you let go and the hair untwists, you’ll see a natural diagonal line. It’s kind of magical how well this works for a DIY job.
The "sliding" technique for more volume
Maybe you want something heavier, something a bit more 2000s emo-revival or classic "cool girl" fringe. The twist method is great for wispy bits, but for a true side-swept look, you might want to try "slithering."
Hold the hair at the angle you want the bangs to follow. If you want them to go from your nose down to your jaw, hold the section at that diagonal. Open your scissors slightly and literally slide them down the hair shaft.
Do not close the scissors.
If you close them, you’ll cut a chunk out. You are just using the edge of the blade to shave off length in a downward motion. This creates that tapered, layered look that blends seamlessly into the rest of your hair. It’s scary. Your hand might shake. If it does, go back to point cutting.
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Why your face shape changes everything
We need to talk about face shapes because a one-size-fits-all bang is a myth.
If you have a round face, you want longer, more angular side bangs that hit around the jawline. This draws the eye down and creates the illusion of length. If your face is more heart-shaped or long, you can pull off a shorter side bang that starts at the eyebrow. This breaks up the forehead and adds width where you need it.
Square faces look incredible with very soft, wispy side bangs that blur the sharp line of the forehead. Avoid blunt edges here; you want movement.
Fixing the "I went too short" panic
It happens. You got confident. You snipped, then you snipped again to "even it out," and suddenly you have a micro-bang that isn't sweeping anywhere.
First, stop cutting.
Second, grab a flat iron.
Sometimes a "too short" bang is actually just a "too bouncy" bang. Using a flat iron to pull the hair down and slightly to the side can gain you back a half-inch of perceived length. You can also use a heavy pomade to weigh the hair down. If all else fails, headbands are back in style, and hair pins are your best friends.
Maintenance and the "two-week" rule
Side bangs are high maintenance. They get oily faster than the rest of your hair because they’re sitting right against your forehead. Dry shampoo is your new religion. Just a quick spritz at the roots every morning will keep them from looking like sad, separated strings by noon.
As for trims? Don't wait until you can't see.
Trimming your own side bangs every two to three weeks keeps the shape. When you trim, only use the point-cutting method. Never, ever cut a straight line during a maintenance trim. You’re just dusting the ends to keep the "sweep" alive.
Actionable steps for your first cut
Before you start, make sure you have a clear workspace with good lighting. Natural light is best so you can see the shadows and how the hair falls against your skin.
- Prep the hair: Wash and dry your hair exactly how you normally wear it. If you usually flat iron it, flat iron it before cutting.
- Dry run: Hold the section of hair and move it around with your hands. See how it reacts to your cowlicks. If you have a strong cowlick at the front, you might need to cut the bangs slightly longer to account for the hair "jumping" up.
- The "Inch" Rule: Always cut at least an inch longer than you think you want. You can always take more off, but you cannot glue it back on.
- Check the blend: Once the main cut is done, unclip the rest of your hair and see how the bangs sit. If there’s a weird "gap" between the bangs and your long layers, use the point-cutting technique to softly bridge the two sections.
- Style immediately: Blow-dry the bangs with a round brush, directing the air from above to flatten the cuticle and prevent frizz.
Side bangs are a low-risk way to change your look, provided you don't rush the process. If you're feeling nervous, watch a few videos of professional stylists (not influencers) to see the "slide" motion in action. Most mistakes happen because of tension—pulling the hair too hard—or using the wrong scissors. Keep it loose, keep it dry, and take your time.