You’ve probably seen them everywhere—the thick, raised braids that look like they’re sitting right on top of the head. People call them "inside-out" braids or boxer braids, but officially, it's the Dutch braid. Honestly, if you can do a standard French braid, you’re already 90% of the way there, but that last 10% is where everyone usually messes up. It’s a literal inversion of the hand movements you’ve practiced since you were a kid.
Most people fail because their fingers have "muscle memory" for the French style. In a French braid, you cross the strands over the middle. To do a Dutch braid correctly, you have to force your brain to go under. It feels clunky at first. Your hands might cramp. But once that "under" motion clicks, you’ll realize it’s actually a more secure way to keep hair out of your face during a workout or a long day at work.
The One Rule of the Dutch Braid
The fundamental difference is direction. That's it.
When you French braid, the braid is hidden inside the hair structure. It’s flat. A Dutch braid pops out because you are creating a foundation underneath the hair. Think of it like a 3D effect. If you find yourself accidentally making a flat braid, you’re crossing over. Stop. Breathe. Remind yourself: Under, not over.
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Preparation is actually half the battle
Don't try this on freshly washed, slippery hair. It’s a nightmare. If you just hopped out of the shower and dried your hair, it’s going to slide right out of your grip. Professional stylists like Jen Atkin often recommend using a bit of dry shampoo or a sea salt spray to give the hair some "grit." This texture helps the strands lock together.
- Brush everything out first. Knots are the enemy.
- Use a rat-tail comb for clean parts if you’re doing double braids.
- Keep a few small elastic bands on your wrist. Searching for a hair tie while holding a tension-heavy braid is a recipe for disaster.
How to Do a Dutch Braid Step by Step (The Real Way)
Start with a small section at the hairline. If you take too much hair at the beginning, the braid will look bottom-heavy and lose that sleek "tapered" look. Divide that section into three equal pieces. Left, middle, right.
Now, take the right strand and pass it under the middle strand. The right strand is now your new middle. Take the left strand and pass it under the new middle. You’ve just completed one "stitch."
This is where the coordination gets tricky. You need to add more hair. Before you move the right strand again, grab a small section of loose hair from the right side of your head and merge it with that right strand. Now, take that combined, thicker strand and pass it under the middle. Repeat this on the left. Grab a thin slice of hair from the left side, join it to your left strand, and pass it under the middle.
Keep your hands close to the scalp. If you pull the hair away from the head while you’re braiding, the finished product will sag. It won't look "snatched." It’ll look like you slept in it for three days. You want tension, but don't pull so hard you give yourself a headache.
Managing the "Tail"
Once you reach the nape of your neck and there’s no more loose hair to add, you just finish with a regular three-strand braid. But remember: keep crossing the strands under the middle one. If you switch to "over" at the bottom, the transition will look weirdly twisted and broken.
Why Your Braid Looks Tiny (And How to Fix It)
A common complaint is that the braid looks like a thin little rope instead of those voluminous braids you see on Pinterest. The secret isn't having thicker hair. It's a technique called "pancaking."
Once the braid is secured with an elastic, start at the bottom and gently—very gently—tug at the outer loops of the braid. Pull them outward to flatten and widen them. If you start at the top, you’ll ruin the tension and the whole thing will fall apart. By starting at the bottom and working your way up, you’re creating volume without sacrificing the structural integrity of the braid near the scalp.
Troubleshooting the "Bubbles" and Bumps
Bumps usually happen for two reasons: poor sectioning or inconsistent tension.
If you grab huge, random chunks of hair, you’ll get "bubbles" where the hair isn't pulled tight against the head. Try to use "slices." Imagine your hair is divided into thin, horizontal layers. Use your pinky finger or a comb to pick up a clean, straight line of hair each time you add to a strand.
If you lose your place, don't panic. You can usually feel with your fingers which strand is "on top." In a Dutch braid, the middle strand should always feel like it's sitting "above" the two side strands that just crossed under it.
Product Recommendations for Longevity
- Texture Powder: If your hair is fine, puff some of this into the braid before pancaking. It acts like "Velcro" for your hair.
- Strong Hold Hairspray: Use this to tame flyaways, especially around the temples.
- Lightweight Oil: A tiny drop of argan or jojoba oil on your fingertips while braiding can prevent frizz if you have curly or coily hair.
Advanced Variations
Once you’ve mastered the basic center braid, try the double Dutch. This is basically the "boxer braid" style. The key here is the part. Use a mirror to make sure your middle part is dead-center from your forehead all the way to the nape of your neck. Clip one side out of the way so you don't accidentally grab hair from the wrong section.
Some people prefer a "diagonal" Dutch braid that starts at one temple and curves around the back of the head. This requires a bit more spatial awareness, as you have to constantly shift the angle of your hands to follow the curve of your skull. It’s impressive, but honestly, it’s just the same "under-under-under" rhythm.
What Most People Get Wrong
People often think they need to be looking in a mirror the whole time. Actually, looking in the mirror can be distracting because everything is flipped. It messes with your brain's perception of "left" and "right." Try doing it by feel. Close your eyes and focus on the sensation of the strands moving under each other. Your fingers are smarter than your eyes when it comes to braiding.
Another mistake is trying to braid wet hair. While it seems easier to control, hair is at its weakest when wet. The tension of a Dutch braid can cause significant breakage if the hair is saturated. Wait until it’s at least 80% dry.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Attempt
- Prep the canvas: Apply a texturizing spray or dry shampoo to dry hair to ensure grip.
- Section cleanly: Use a tail comb to create a clear starting triangle at the forehead.
- Mantra time: Whisper "under" to yourself for the first ten stitches until the muscle memory takes over.
- Keep it tight: Maintain hand contact with the scalp throughout the process to prevent sagging.
- Pancake last: Never pull the loops until the bottom elastic is firmly in place.
- Mist and set: Use a high-hold spray to lock in the height of the braid.
The Dutch braid is more of a workout for your brain than your hands. It takes about five or six tries before it stops feeling like your fingers are made of wood. Just keep going under.