You've probably seen a thousand photos of perfect, floor-length locs and thought, "I want that." But honestly? Most people mess up the start because they're impatient. They think you can just stop combing your hair and—poof—you’re Lenny Kravitz. It doesn't work like that. If you want to know how to do dreadlocks properly, you have to accept that your hair is about to go through a weird, messy, and sometimes frustrating teenage phase.
It's a commitment.
Dreadlocks, or locs as they are more accurately called in many cultures, aren't just "matted hair." They are organized structures of tangled strands that have matured over time. Whether you have Type 4C coils or straight Caucasian hair, the physics of the process remains the same: you are encouraging hair to knot and stay knotted. If you rush it with too much wax or weird chemicals, you end up with a moldy mess that smells like a wet basement. Don't do that.
Choosing the Right Method for Your Hair Type
Not every head of hair can handle every method. If you have fine, straight hair and try to do "comb coils," they will literally fall out before you finish your coffee. Conversely, if you have thick, kinky hair, you don't necessarily need to backcomb it into oblivion.
For those with textured or Afro-caribbean hair, comb coils or two-strand twists are usually the gold standard. You take a small section, apply a bit of locking gel (not too much!), and use a fine-tooth comb to twist the hair from the root to the tip. It looks like a tiny spring. Over time, the internal structure of that twist shifts. The hair sheds, but instead of falling to the floor, it gets trapped in the twist. That's how a loc is born.
If your hair is on the smoother side, you’re likely looking at backcombing or the twist and rip method. Backcombing is exactly what it sounds like. You take a section, tease it toward the scalp with a metal dread comb, and create a "bird's nest" of tangles. You then palm roll it to smooth the shape. It looks a bit crazy at first. You'll look like you got into a fight with a vacuum cleaner. But it creates the necessary friction for the hair to start locking.
The Crochet Method: The "Instant" Loc
A lot of people are turning to the crochet hook method because they want immediate results. You use a tiny 0.5mm or 0.75mm hook to manually pull stray hairs into the center of the loc. It’s a game changer. Experts like Seienstyle have popularized this technique globally because it works on almost any hair type.
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But be careful.
If you go too hard with the hook, you’ll snap the hair fibers. You’ll have locs that look great for three months and then suddenly break off at the root because you’ve turned the internal structure into Swiss cheese. It’s a delicate balance. You want it tight, but not "breaking point" tight.
The Stages of Loc Growth: What Nobody Tells You
Everyone talks about the "starter stage" and the "mature stage," but they skip the part where you look like a pineapple for six months.
- The Starter Phase: This lasts anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Your sections are neat. You feel cool. You’re constantly checking the mirror.
- The Budding Phase: This is where the panic sets in. Your hair starts to swell. The neat twists you had? They’re gone. Your hair looks frizzy, fuzzy, and twice as thick as it did before. People will ask if you’ve "done your hair" lately. This is actually a good sign! It means the hair is starting to knot in the center.
- The Teen Phase: Your locs are finally heavy enough to hang down, but they aren't quite "solid" yet. They might be lumpy. One might be shorter than the rest. It’s awkward.
- The Mature Phase: After a year or two, the locs are firm. They don't unravel when you wash them. This is the dream.
Why Your Choice of Products Will Make or Break You
If you buy a jar of heavy beeswax, you are making a massive mistake. I’m serious. Beeswax is waterproof. That sounds good, right? Wrong. Once it’s inside a loc, it’s almost impossible to get out. It attracts lint, dust, and smells. Eventually, you’ll have a gray, waxy buildup in the middle of your locs that looks like "dread rot."
Stick to water-based products. Aloe vera gel is a fantastic, natural alternative for hold. It washes out easily and doesn't leave a residue.
Washing is not the enemy.
There is a weird myth that you shouldn't wash your hair when you're figuring out how to do dreadlocks. That is disgusting and factually incorrect. Clean hair actually locks faster than oily hair. Sebum (your natural scalp oil) acts as a lubricant. Lubricated hair slides; it doesn't knot. You want your hair to be a bit "rough" and clean so the strands can grab onto each other. Just make sure you use a residue-free shampoo. If your shampoo smells like a tropical fruit basket and leaves your hair feeling "silky," it’s probably full of silicones that will prevent locking.
Sectioning: The Foundation You Can't Fix Later
The way you divide your hair on day one is the way it will look for the next ten years.
Do you want a brick-lay pattern? This is where the sections are staggered like bricks on a wall, so when the locs fall down, they cover the "parts" of the row below them. It gives a fuller look. Or maybe you prefer diamond sections? They look intricate and cool when tied back, but they can be harder to maintain.
Think about the size, too.
Tiny sections lead to "microlocs" or "Sisterlocks." They are high maintenance and require frequent re-tightening. Large sections lead to "congo" style or thick "bob" locs. Remember that a loc will eventually be about the thickness of the section at the base. Don't make the sections too small if you want thick locs, as the weight of the hair might eventually cause the loc to thinning at the root and fall off. It's simple physics: a thin anchor can't hold a heavy rope.
Maintenance and Long-Term Health
Once you've started, you need a routine. Palm rolling is your best friend. After you wash your hair, while it's still damp, roll each loc between your palms from base to tip. This helps keep them cylindrical and prevents them from becoming flat or "pancake" shaped.
Sleep with a satin or silk scarf. Or a bonnet. Or a dread sock. Whatever you call it, use it. Cotton pillowcases are lint magnets. Once lint gets woven into the internal structure of a dreadlock, it's there forever. You can't just brush it out. Over years, this lint can make the locs look dull and dirty even if they are freshly washed.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Interlocking too tight: If you use a tool to pull the end of the loc through the root (interlocking), don't pull it until it hurts. This causes "traction alopecia." You’ll end up with a receding hairline or bald patches.
- Over-maintaining: You don't need to retwist your hair every week. Doing so thins out the hair at the scalp. Give your hair a break. Four to six weeks between maintenance sessions is usually the sweet spot.
- Ignoring the scalp: People get so focused on the locs that they forget there's skin underneath. If your scalp is itchy or dry, use a light oil like jojoba or grapeseed. Avoid heavy greases.
Actionable Steps to Get Started Today
If you’re ready to take the plunge, don't just grab a comb and start guessing.
First, clarify your hair. Use a stripping shampoo to remove all the old conditioners and silicones. You want your hair as "naked" as possible.
Second, map your head. Get a friend to help you section your hair with small elastics. This allows you to see the "flow" of the locs before you actually commit to the tangling. Check the symmetry. Check the size.
Third, choose your tool. If you're going for the crochet method, buy a high-quality 0.5mm steel hook. If you're twisting, get some metal duckbill clips to hold the twists in place while they dry.
Finally, be patient. The first three months are the hardest. Your hair will look messy. You will want to quit. But if you leave it alone and keep it clean, the hair will do what it wants to do naturally: it will find its neighbor, it will tangle, and it will lock.
The most successful loc journeys aren't the ones with the most expensive products; they're the ones where the person just let the process happen. Stop touching it. Stop obsessing. Just let it grow.