You’re standing in Old San Juan, sipping a piña colada, and looking out at the ocean. You’ve seen the photos of Flamenco Beach—the rusted tanks, the turquoise water that looks like a Gatorade flavor, the white sand. You want to go. Now.
But here is the thing: getting to Culebra isn't always as simple as hopping on a bus. If you just show up at the old pier in San Juan thinking you can catch a boat, you’re going to be disappointed. That pier has been closed to Culebra traffic for years.
To make it to this tiny island paradise, you basically have two choices. You fly or you drive to the ferry. Both have quirks. Honestly, if you don't plan this at least a little bit in advance, you might end up stuck on the "big island" of Puerto Rico, staring at Culebra from across the water.
The "Fast and Splurge" Route: Flying from San Juan
If you've got the budget, fly. It’s that simple.
There are two main airports in the San Juan area you can fly out of. Most people use Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport (SJU) because that’s where their main flight lands. You just walk from one terminal to another.
Companies like Cape Air and Silver Airways operate out of SJU. The flight is short—maybe 30 minutes—and the view is incredible. You’ll see the reefs from above, and the plane is small enough that you’ll feel like an explorer.
Why fly from Isla Grande instead?
There is a second, smaller airport called Fernando Luis Ribas Dominicci Airport (SIG), often just called Isla Grande. It’s right near the Miramar and Convention Center district.
Air Flamenco and Vieques Air Link fly out of here. The tickets are usually a bit cheaper than SJU. For example, a round trip from SJU might run you $180 to $250, while SIG can sometimes be found for $130 to $160.
One big warning: these are tiny planes. We’re talking 8 to 10 seaters. If you’re a nervous flyer, bring some headphones. Also, weight limits are real. They will weigh your bag, and they might even weigh you. Don't take it personally; it’s just physics.
The "Budget and Adventure" Route: The Ceiba Ferry
Okay, let’s say you want to save your money for lobster dinners and snorkeling gear. You’re going to take the ferry.
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First, you have to get to Ceiba.
Ceiba is about 60 to 90 minutes east of San Juan, depending on how much "island time" the traffic is feeling that day. You cannot catch a ferry to Culebra from San Juan. You have to drive or take a taxi to the Ceiba Ferry Terminal, located at the old Roosevelt Roads Naval Base.
Getting to the Terminal
- Rental Car: Most people drive. There is a huge parking lot at the terminal. It costs around $11 to $15 per day.
- Uber/Taxi: An Uber from San Juan to Ceiba will cost you anywhere from $80 to $110 one way. It’s pricey, but if you have a group of four, it starts to make sense.
- Shuttles: There are companies like Go Puerto Rico Shuttle that do transfers.
The Ticket Struggle
The ferry only costs $2.25 one way. Yeah, you read that right. It’s incredibly cheap.
Because it’s so cheap, it sells out. Fast.
You need to buy your tickets online at the Puerto Rico Ferry (Hornblower) website weeks in advance if you’re going on a weekend. If you show up at the window on a Saturday morning without a reservation, your chances of getting on are slim to none.
There are two types of boats: the Passenger Ferry (fast, takes about 45 minutes) and the Cargo Ferry (slow, takes about 1.5 hours). Usually, you’ll be on the passenger one. Be warned: the "Culebra Canal" can be rough. If you get seasick, take a Dramamine an hour before you board. The locals call the ferry "The Vomit Comet" for a reason on windy days.
What happens when you land?
Whether you fly into the tiny Benjamin Rivera Noriega Airport (CPX) or hop off the ferry at the dock in town (Dewey), you aren't at the beach yet.
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Culebra is small, but it’s hilly. Flamenco Beach is a few miles away.
- Publicos: These are shared passenger vans. They hang out at the airport and the ferry dock. It’s usually about $5 per person to get to Flamenco.
- Golf Carts: This is the "Culebra way." Companies like Jerry’s Jeep Rental or Carlos Jeep Rental are the big names. Book these months in advance. Seriously. They will sell out, and walking in the Puerto Rican sun is no joke.
A Note on "Day Tripping"
Can you do Culebra in a day from San Juan? Yes.
Should you? It’s tough.
If you take the ferry, you’re looking at a 6:00 AM departure from San Juan to make a 9:00 AM ferry, then returning on the 5:00 PM boat. You’ll be exhausted. If you fly, a day trip is much more manageable. You can catch an 8:00 AM flight and be on the sand by 9:00 AM.
However, Culebra changes after the last ferry leaves. The day-trippers vanish, the stars come out, and the island gets quiet. If you can stay one night, do it.
Your Culebra Checklist
- Book the flight or ferry first. Don't book your hotel until you know you can actually get to the island.
- Pack light. Small planes have tiny cargo holds, and dragging heavy suitcases onto a ferry is a nightmare.
- ID is mandatory. Even though you aren't leaving the U.S. (if you're a citizen), you need a valid ID to board the planes and ferries.
- Download the app. The "City Experiences" app is what manages the ferry tickets. It’s much easier than trying to use the mobile website.
The most important thing to remember is that Culebra runs on its own schedule. Sometimes the ferry breaks down. Sometimes the weather cancels flights. Go with a "Pura Vida" attitude, bring plenty of reef-safe sunscreen, and you’ll find that the effort to get there is worth every second once you see that water.
Next Steps for Your Trip
Check the official Puerto Rico Ferry website for the current month's schedule, as they often release tickets in blocks 30 days out. If you prefer flying, look at Air Flamenco’s site specifically for the Isla Grande (SIG) departures to save on the airport taxes charged at the international hub.