Let’s be honest. Most people mess up when they try to make a hasselback potato because they treat it like a regular baked potato with some fancy slits. It’s not. If you just shove a tuber in the oven after cutting it, you’re going to end up with a soggy, bland center and edges that are somehow both burnt and chewy. It's frustrating. You want that accordion-style crunch that looks like a million bucks on Instagram but tastes even better.
I’ve spent years obsessing over starch content and heat distribution. The Hasselback—originally the Hasselbackspotatis—was served first in the 1950s at the Hasselbacken restaurant in Stockholm. It was a hit because it solved the age-old problem of the potato: the ratio of crispy skin to fluffy interior. By maximizing surface area, you basically turn a single vegetable into a giant french fry that still has a baked potato soul.
Why Your First Attempt Probably Failed
Most home cooks grab a Russet, slice it, brush on some melted butter, and hope for the best. That’s a mistake. You’ve got to think about the moisture. If the moisture stays trapped between those thin slices, the potato steams. Steaming is the enemy of the crunch. You want dehydration followed by rapid browning.
Another big issue? Depth. If you don't cut deep enough, the slices don't fan out. If you cut too deep, the whole thing snaps in half and you’re left with a pile of weirdly shaped potato coins. It's a delicate balance.
The Secret to the Perfect Slice
Don’t try to eyeball it. Seriously. Use the "chopstick trick."
Basically, you place the potato between two wooden chopsticks or the handles of two wooden spoons. When your knife goes down, it hits the wood before it can slice all the way through the bottom. This leaves about a quarter-inch of the potato intact at the base, holding the whole structure together like the spine of a book.
Choosing the Right Potato
You might think any old spud will do, but science says otherwise.
- Russets: These are high in starch and low in moisture. They get the crispiest edges, but they can be a bit fragile.
- Yukon Golds: My personal favorite for this. They have a natural buttery flavor and a medium starch level that holds its shape better than a Russet.
- Red Potatoes: Just don't. They're too waxy. They won't fan out properly and the edges stay soft.
The starch in a Russet, specifically the amylose content, allows for that "shatter" crunch we all crave. According to food scientist Harold McGee in On Food and Cooking, the way starch granules swell and then dry out under high heat is what creates that textured crust. If you use a waxy potato, the pectin holds the cells together too tightly. You get a firm bite, but no "snap."
How to Make a Hasselback Potato Step-by-Step (The Real Way)
First, preheat your oven to 425°F (220°C). Lower temperatures are for roasting; high temperatures are for crisping. You need that initial blast of heat to start the Maillard reaction.
1. The Prep Work
Wash the potatoes. Dry them. I mean really dry them. Water on the skin creates steam. Slice off a tiny sliver from the bottom of the potato so it sits flat on your cutting board. This prevents it from rolling around while you’re trying to use a sharp knife. Use your chopsticks and make slices about 1/8th of an inch apart. Thinner is usually better, but don't go so thin that the slices break off during the second basting.
2. The First Bake
Do not put all your toppings on now. This is where people go wrong. If you put garlic and herbs on at the start, they will burn into bitter black specks long before the potato is cooked. Brush the potato generously with an oil that has a high smoke point—avocado oil or clarified butter (ghee) works best. Regular butter contains milk solids that will burn at 425°F.
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Bake for 30 minutes. At this stage, the potato is just starting to "bloom." The slices will begin to pull apart.
3. The Interval Basting
Take them out. Now that the slices have separated, you can actually get flavor inside the potato. This is the crucial moment. Take a pastry brush and force seasoned butter (now you can use regular butter) down into the crevices. Add your salt, pepper, and finely minced garlic here.
4. The Final Crunch
Put them back in for another 20 to 30 minutes. You’re looking for deep golden brown edges. If you want to add cheese, do it in the last 5 minutes. If you put cheddar on for 30 minutes, you’ll just have a greasy, charred mess.
The Butter vs. Oil Debate
Is butter better? Kinda.
Butter has water in it (usually about 15-20%). When you use butter, that water has to evaporate before the browning starts. If you want the absolute crunchiest results, use duck fat or beef tallow. These fats are 100% lipid. No water. Professional chefs at places like The Fat Duck have experimented with various fats for years, and animal fats almost always win for texture because of their fatty acid profiles and how they interact with potato starch.
If you’re vegan, extra virgin olive oil is fine, but it has a lower smoke point. You might notice a slightly more acrid taste if the oven is ripping hot. Stick to a refined olive oil or avocado oil for the first half of the bake, then finish with the fancy stuff.
Infusing Flavor Without Burning
Garlic is the most common victim of the Hasselback process. To avoid the "burnt garlic" taste, try infusing your fat beforehand. Heat your oil or butter in a small saucepan with smashed garlic cloves and rosemary sprigs. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then strain it. You get all the aromatic compounds without the physical bits that turn into charcoal in a hot oven.
Beyond the Basics: Variations That Work
Once you've mastered the technique of how to make a hasselback potato, you can get weird with it.
- The Loaded Baked Version: In the last 5 minutes of baking, stuff thin slices of sharp cheddar between every third or fourth slit. Once melted, top with sour cream, chives, and real bacon bits.
- The Mediterranean: Use olive oil, lemon zest, and dried oregano. After baking, crumble some high-quality feta over the top.
- The Spicy Miso: Mix softened butter with a teaspoon of white miso paste and a dash of sriracha. This creates an incredible umami crust that regular salt just can't touch.
I once tried a sweet potato version. It’s harder. Sweet potatoes are denser and have more sugar, meaning they burn way faster. If you try it, drop the temp to 375°F and increase the time. They won't get as "crispy-shatter" as a Russet, but they get a nice caramelized edge.
Common Misconceptions About Soaking
You’ll see some recipes telling you to soak the sliced potatoes in cold water to remove starch. While this works for french fries, I find it’s counterproductive for Hasselbacks. You want a bit of that starch to help the base stay sturdy. If you wash away too much starch, the slices become flimsy. Instead of soaking, just make sure the potato is dry. Dryness is the most important factor for success.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Dinner
If you're planning to make these tonight, here is the sequence that guarantees success without the fluff.
- Check your oven calibration. Most ovens are off by 10-25 degrees. Use an oven thermometer. If your oven is actually at 400°F when it says 425°F, your potatoes will be soggy.
- Use a rimmed baking sheet. Don't use a deep baking dish. High sides trap steam around the base of the potato. A flat sheet allows air to circulate 360 degrees.
- Space them out. Don't crowd the pan. If the potatoes are touching, they will steam each other. Give them at least two inches of breathing room.
- Salt early and late. Salt the outside before the first bake to draw out surface moisture. Salt again after the basting to ensure the interior isn't bland.
The Hasselback is a lesson in patience. You can't rush the fan. If you try to force the slices open before they’ve softened in the oven, they will snap. Let the heat do the work of opening the potato, then you do the work of filling it with flavor.
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Start with a medium-sized Yukon Gold. It's the most forgiving variety for a beginner. Once you see those edges curling and browning, you’ll know you’ve moved past the "baked potato" phase and into the realm of legitimate culinary technique. Just remember: dry skin, high heat, and two-stage basting. That’s the entire "secret" summarized in six words.
Get your chopsticks ready and watch the edges. If they look like they’re browning too fast, move the tray to a lower rack, but don't drop the temperature. The heat is your friend.