You’re standing at the base of a 5.10a in Rumney or maybe a sun-drenched limestone crag in Kalymnos, and you pull that heavy, gold-plated chunk of metal off your gear loop. It’s the Petzl Grigri. Since 1991, this little device has basically redefined sport climbing safety, yet people still manage to use it in ways that make seasoned guides wince. Honestly, it’s a bit of a paradox. It is marketed as an assisted-braking device, which makes it feel "safe," but that feeling of safety is exactly where the danger creeps in.
I’ve seen it a hundred times. A belayer gets comfortable, their hand drifts off the brake strand to itch their nose or adjust their sunglasses, and suddenly the leader takes a whip. If you think the Grigri is an "autoblock" that lets you take a nap while your partner clips bolts, you’re wrong. It’s a tool. And like any tool, from a chainsaw to a spatula, there is a specific way to handle it so nobody gets hurt.
Getting the Basics Down: Loading the Rope
Before we even talk about catching falls, we have to talk about the orientation. It sounds stupid, but loading a Grigri backward is the most common "pro" mistake. Petzl actually engraved little icons on the inside of the faceplate to help you out—a little person icon for the climber side and a hand icon for the brake side. Use them.
Open the swinging side plate. Loop the rope over the cam. The strand going to the climber should come out the top, and the strand you hold should come out the bottom, right over the stainless steel friction plate. If you do this backward, it’s just a very expensive, very heavy, non-functional pulley. Always, and I mean always, perform a pull test. Once the device is clipped into your belay loop with a locking carabiner (and that carabiner is locked!), give the climber’s end a sharp upward tug. The cam should engage immediately. If the rope slips through, stop. You’ve messed up. Fix it before your climber leaves the ground.
The Golden Rule: The Brake Hand Never Leaves
This is the hill I will die on. The "assisted" part of "assisted-braking device" is a helper, not a replacement. You've got to keep your hand on that brake strand.
The mechanism inside a Grigri is a camming unit. When the rope moves quickly—like during a fall—it creates friction, which rotates the cam and pinches the rope. But if the fall is slow, or if the rope is skinny and brand new (like those fancy 8.5mm triples), the cam might not engage instantly. Your brake hand provides the initial tension that forces the cam to pivot. Without that hand, you’re just a spectator to a potential ground fall.
Giving Slack Without Fumbling
Giving slack is where most people lose their minds. They try to pull rope through the device, it locks up, they get frustrated, and then they hold the cam down with their whole hand to "override" it. This is how accidents happen. If you hold the cam down with your palm and your climber falls, you might instinctively squeeze your hand shut, keeping the cam open and letting the rope zip through.
Here is how the pros do it. It’s called the "Gas Pedal" method.
- Your brake hand stays on the rope.
- Wrap your index finger under the "lip" (the plastic part) of the Grigri.
- Use your thumb to gently press down on the cam.
- While your thumb is holding the cam, pull the slack through with your other hand.
- Immediately release the cam and move your brake hand back to the standard belay position.
It’s a fluid motion. You’re only overriding the device for a split second while the climber clips. The moment they move on, you’re back to a closed system.
Catching a Fall (Softly)
Hard catches suck. They’re hard on the climber’s ankles, hard on the gear, and they make people scared to lead. Because a Grigri locks so aggressively, it tends to create a "static" catch. To counter this, you need to be an active belayer.
When you feel the rope go taut as your partner falls, don't just stand there like a statue. Take a small, controlled hop or step toward the wall. This tiny bit of movement adds dynamic stretch to the system. It turns a jarring "thud" into a soft "swing." However, don't do this if the climber is near the ground. If they are on the first or second bolt, your job isn't to be soft; it's to keep them off the dirt. In that case, sit back, keep the brake strand tight, and be the anchor.
Lowering Without the "Jerky-Jerk"
Lowering with a Grigri is an art form. You see beginners cranking the lever back, the climber drops five feet, the belayer panics and slams the lever shut, and the climber bounces like a yo-yo. It’s terrifying for the person on the rope.
The trick is in your brake hand, not just the lever. Hold the brake strand firmly. Use the lever as a clutch. Slowly pull it back until the cam starts to disengage. As the rope starts to slide, use your brake hand to regulate the speed. The lever stays in one position; your hand does the work. If things get too fast, don't just let go of the lever—though the newer Grigri + has an anti-panic handle that locks if you pull too hard—rely on your brake hand friction.
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The Skinny Rope Problem
We live in an era of "dental floss" ropes. Everyone wants a 9.0mm or even an 8.7mm lead line because it’s light. But if you are using an older Grigri 2 or the original "fat" Grigri, those thin ropes can be dangerous. They don't provide enough surface area for the cam to bite quickly.
If you’re using modern high-end ropes, make sure you are using the Grigri + or the latest version of the standard Grigri (often just called the "Grigri 2019" or later). These are optimized for ropes down to 8.5mm. Even then, if the rope is brand new and has that slippery factory glaze, you need to be twice as vigilant. It will run through the device much faster than your old, fuzzy 10.1mm gym rope.
Common Pitfalls and "Crag Habits"
Let’s talk about the "death grip." When people get nervous, they tend to clench. If you are clenching the device itself instead of the rope, you are bypassing the safety features. I’ve seen belayers get "bird-nested"—where the rope tangles at their feet—and they spend so much time looking down at the mess that they don't notice the climber has six feet of slack out.
Always keep your eyes on the climber. You should be able to feel the rope through your hands. If you need to manage your rope pile, do it with quick glances. Your primary job is the person on the wall.
Also, watch out for "creeping." This is when the belayer slowly wanders ten feet away from the base of the wall to get a better view. This is bad for two reasons. First, it creates a massive amount of friction if the climber falls, potentially pulling you into the wall and slamming your head. Second, it changes the pull angle on the first bolt, which can actually unclip a poorly positioned quickdraw (it's rare, but it happens). Stay close to the wall, especially for the first few bolts.
Maintenance: It’s Not a "Set it and Forget it" Tool
Grigris are built like tanks, but they aren't indestructible. Over time, the stainless steel friction plate—the part the rope rubs against—will wear down. If it starts to develop a sharp edge, it can core your rope.
Check the cam for grit. If you’ve been climbing at a sandy place like Red Rocks or the Creek, your device is going to get crunchy. You can clean it with warm soapy water and a toothbrush. Don't use heavy degreasers or WD-40. If you feel like the cam is sticky, a tiny drop of dry, wax-based lubricant on the pivot point is okay, but keep it far away from the areas where the rope actually touches.
Actionable Next Steps for the Crag
Knowing how to use a Grigri in theory is different from doing it when your partner is screaming at a crux 50 feet up. Here is what you should do next:
- Practice the "Gas Pedal" at home: Anchor a rope to something solid, put on your harness, and practice giving slack until the thumb-on-cam motion feels like muscle memory.
- Do a "Controlled Fall" session: Go to the gym with a partner you trust. Have them climb a bolt or two above the draw and take a fall while you practice the dynamic catch. It’s better to learn the "hop" in a controlled environment than on a sharp limestone arête.
- Check your rope diameter: Look at the middle marker tag on your rope. If it’s under 8.9mm and you’re using an older device, consider upgrading your belay tool to something rated for skinnier lines.
- Clean your gear: If your Grigri handle feels "mushy" or the cam doesn't snap back, give it a wash tonight. A clean tool is a predictable tool.
Belaying is a heavy responsibility. The Grigri makes it easier, but it doesn't make it effortless. Stay focused, keep your hand on the brake, and don't let the "assisted" label make you lazy.