You’d think a machine designed to clean things would, by default, stay clean. It doesn’t. In fact, modern high-efficiency (HE) washers are basically petri dishes for mold, biofilm, and detergent buildup if you aren't careful. If your gym clothes still smell a bit "off" even after a heavy cycle, or if you open the lid and get a whiff of a swamp, it is time to learn how to wash a laundry machine the right way.
Most people just toss a pod in and hope for the best. That’s a mistake.
The reality is that cold water washes and excessive fabric softener use have created a literal gunk crisis in American laundry rooms. Softener is basically flavored fat. When you use it in a machine that rarely sees water over 120°F, it coats the outer drum—the part you can't see—in a waxy film. Bacteria love this. They move in, throw a party, and create a "biofilm" that protects them from your regular detergent.
Cleaning the thing isn't just about aesthetics; it's about mechanical longevity.
The Vinegar and Bleach Myth
People love natural cleaners. I get it. But there is a massive misconception about using vinegar and bleach together. Never do this. Mixing them creates chlorine gas, which is toxic. Even using them one after the other without a thorough rinse cycle is risky for your lungs and the rubber seals in your machine.
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Vinegar is great for dissolving calcium (limescale) if you have hard water. Bleach is the king of killing mold. You have to pick a struggle. If your machine smells like a basement, go with bleach. If you see white, crusty flakes on the drum, go with an acid like white vinegar or citric acid.
According to various appliance repair technicians, including those at Sears Home Services, using too much vinegar can actually degrade the rubber bellows (the large gray gasket) on front-load washers over time. It's an acid. Use it sparingly.
Scrubbing the Parts You’re Ignoring
Before you even run a cleaning cycle, you have to do the manual labor. It's gross. You’ll need a toothbrush and some hot soapy water.
Check the detergent drawer. Pull it all the way out. Most machines have a little release tab you press so the whole drawer slides out. Look inside the cavity where the drawer sits. It’s usually covered in black spots. That’s mold. Scrub the drawer and the ceiling of the compartment.
The Gasket Nightmare
If you have a front-loader, pull back the folds of the rubber door seal. This is where socks go to die and where hair, lint, and stagnant water live. It’s the "gasket." Wipe it out with a microfiber cloth soaked in a diluted bleach solution. If you find a bobby pin or a coin stuck in there, pull it out. Metal rusting against the rubber will ruin the seal and lead to expensive leaks.
The Filter (The Secret Gross Spot)
Most front-load machines have a small door on the bottom front. Behind it is a drain pump filter. Warning: Put a towel down and a shallow bowl under it before you open this. A good half-gallon of smelly, gray water is going to pour out.
Unscrew the filter. You will probably find coins, hair ties, and a thick coating of slime. Rinse it under the tap. This is the single most common reason for "OE" or "Drain Error" codes on LG and Samsung machines. If the water can't exit fast enough, the dirt just settles back onto your clothes.
How to Wash a Laundry Machine: The Deep Clean Cycle
Once the manual scrubbing is done, it's time for the internal flush.
If your machine has a "Clean Washer" cycle, use it. This cycle is programmed to use more water than a standard load and often uses the highest possible temperature. If you don't have that setting, use the "Whites" cycle or "Heavy Duty" with the "Extra Rinse" and "Hot" water settings selected.
- Option A: The Oxygen Bleach Method. This is the safest for most people. Use a dedicated cleaner like Affresh or OxiClean Washing Machine Cleaner. These are formulated to break down slowly throughout the cycle.
- Option B: The Liquid Bleach Method. Pour one cup of liquid chlorine bleach into the detergent dispenser. Run the hot cycle. This is the "nuclear option" for smells.
- Option C: The Citric Acid Method. If you have hard water, pour half a cup of food-grade citric acid directly into the drum. It’s more effective than vinegar at removing scale and won't smell like a salad.
Do not put clothes in during this. It seems obvious, but people try to "multitask." Don't. You need the water to hit every square inch of that drum without being absorbed by a towel.
Top Loaders vs. Front Loaders
The physics of these machines change the cleaning strategy.
Top loaders, especially the older ones with an agitator, are prone to "scrud." That’s the technical term for the waxy buildup of soap and skin cells. Because top loaders use more water, they usually don't smell as fast as front loaders, but they still get gross. Fill it with hot water, add your cleaner, and let it sit for an hour mid-cycle before letting it finish draining.
Front loaders are all about the gasket and the drum's rear bearing. Because they use so little water, they can't always flush out the suds. If you see suds during a cleaning cycle when you haven't added soap, that’s "oversudsing" residue from your previous 50 loads of laundry. It’s a sign you’re using way too much detergent.
Most people use two to three times the amount of detergent they actually need. For a high-efficiency machine, two tablespoons of liquid detergent is plenty. Any more just creates a film that traps odors.
Why Your Washer Keeps Getting Dirty
You can't just clean it once a year and expect it to stay fresh. It’s a maintenance habit.
The biggest mistake? Closing the door.
When you finish a load, leave the door or lid open. Always. If you close it, you’re sealing moisture into a dark, warm box. That is an invitation for mold. Leave the detergent drawer cracked open, too. Air circulation is the cheapest and most effective way to prevent the need for frequent deep cleans.
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Also, stop using fabric softener. Honestly. It doesn't actually make clothes cleaner; it just coats them in a chemical film. If you want soft clothes, try wool dryer balls or a splash of vinegar in the softener compartment during the rinse cycle. The vinegar smell disappears when it dries, and it helps strip away excess soap.
Expert Maintenance Schedule
I suggest a "Clean One, Do One" rule. Every time you clean the machine, check the hoses at the back. Look for bulges or cracks. A burst washing machine hose is one of the leading causes of indoor flooding in North America. If yours are black rubber, consider upgrading to stainless steel braided hoses. They’re about twenty bucks and provide a lot of peace of mind.
- Every Load: Leave the door open. Wipe the gasket if you see standing water.
- Once a Month: Run a "Clean Washer" cycle with a tablet or bleach.
- Every Three Months: Clean the drain pump filter at the bottom.
- Once a Year: Pull the machine out and vacuum the dust behind it. Dust is a fire hazard and can make the motor run hotter than it should.
Knowing how to wash a laundry machine isn't just a "chore." It's an investment in your wardrobe. If your machine is dirty, your clothes aren't getting clean—they're just getting "perfumed" by detergent while the bacteria remains trapped in the fibers.
Actionable Next Steps
- Locate your manual (or find it online) and identify where your drain pump filter is.
- Buy a pack of washing machine cleaner tablets or a fresh bottle of bleach.
- Run a hot cycle today with no clothes.
- Start the habit of leaving the door ajar after every single load.
- Check your detergent bottle and actually measure out two tablespoons for your next load to see if it makes a difference in residue.
Keeping the machine clean is significantly easier than trying to scrub out mold that has already permeated the internal components. Once the smell gets into the outer tub's plastic, it is very hard to remove. Preventative maintenance is the only way to go.