You just bought a Pachira aquatica. It looks great. The braided trunk and those vibrant, hand-shaped leaves make your living room feel like a tropical escape. But then, a week later, a leaf turns yellow. Then another. You panic. You grab the watering can because, hey, it’s a plant, it needs water, right? Stop. Honestly, the fastest way to turn your lush investment into a stick in a pot is by overthinking the simple act of how you water a money tree.
Most people treat their money trees like common houseplants, but these things are a bit weird. In their native habitats in Central and South American swamps, they can handle a lot of water. But stuck in a ceramic pot in a suburban living room? That's a different story. The environment is different, the drainage is usually worse, and the air is way drier. If you don't adjust your strategy, you’re basically drowning it in slow motion.
👉 See also: Platinum Blonde Curly Hair: Why It Is Harder Than It Looks (But Worth It)
The "Finger Test" Is Better Than Any Schedule
Forget the "water every Monday" rule. It’s a trap. Your house isn't a laboratory. The humidity changes when you turn on the AC, and the soil dries faster in July than it does in December. If you stick to a rigid calendar, you’re eventually going to water soil that is already saturated. That’s how you get root rot.
Root rot is nasty. It’s a fungal issue where the roots basically turn into mush because they can't breathe. To avoid this, you’ve gotta get your hands dirty. Stick your finger about two inches into the soil. If it feels even slightly damp, walk away. Put the watering can down. You want the top 50% to 75% of the soil to be dry before you even think about adding more moisture. This isn't just a suggestion; it’s the golden rule for keeping the Pachira alive.
I’ve seen people use moisture meters, and those are fine, but they can be finicky. Sometimes they give a "dry" reading when the tip is just resting against a piece of bark. Your finger doesn't lie. If the soil clings to your skin and feels cool, there is still moisture down there. Wait another two days and check again.
How Much Water Does a Money Tree Actually Need?
When it is finally time to water a money tree, don't just give it a sip. You want to soak it. This is called "deep watering." Take the plant to the sink or shower if it's big. Pour water in until it starts gushing out of the drainage holes at the bottom. This ensures that the entire root ball gets a drink, not just the top layer.
Why does this matter? Well, if you only give it a little splash every few days, the water never reaches the bottom roots. Those roots will eventually shrivel and die, while the top of the soil stays perpetually damp, inviting fungus gnats. It’s a lose-lose. By soaking it and then letting it drain completely, you’re mimicking a tropical rainstorm.
Drainage Is Not Optional
If your pot doesn't have a hole in the bottom, you’re playing a dangerous game. I’ve talked to so many plant owners who keep their money tree in a decorative "cachepot" with no drainage. They think they can just "estimate" the amount of water. You can't. Without a hole, the water just pools at the bottom, creating a stagnant swamp that kills the roots in days.
If you love the look of a pot without holes, keep the plant in its plastic nursery liner. Water it in the sink, let it drip dry for 15 minutes, and then pop it back into the pretty ceramic container. Simple. No mess, no dead plant.
The Humidity Factor Nobody Talks About
While the soil shouldn't stay wet, the air should. These plants love humidity. If you live in a place with harsh winters and the heater is constantly running, the air becomes bone-dry. Your money tree will hate this. The tips of the leaves will turn brown and crispy. This isn't usually a sign that you need to water the soil more; it’s a sign that the plant is thirsty for ambient moisture.
Don't bother with misting. Honestly, it doesn't do much. Spraying the leaves with a spray bottle raises the humidity for about five minutes, and then it evaporates. It’s basically useless. Instead, try these:
- A pebble tray: Fill a shallow tray with rocks and water, then set the pot on top (just make sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water).
- A humidifier: This is the pro move. Keeping the room at 50% humidity will make your money tree look like it’s in a jungle.
- Grouping plants: Plants "breathe" out moisture (transpiration). If you put a bunch of them together, they create their own little humid microclimate.
Troubleshooting the "Money Tree Lean"
Sometimes, after you water a money tree, you might notice it starts to lean or the leaves look heavy. This can be confusing. Is it too much water? Too little? Usually, if the stems are soft and squishy, you’ve overwatered. If the leaves are curling and feel like paper, it’s thirsty.
One thing people forget is light. A money tree that isn't getting enough bright, indirect light won't "use" the water you give it. Photosynthesis requires water. No light means no photosynthesis, which means the water just sits in the dirt. If your plant is in a dark corner, you need to water it significantly less than if it were near a bright window.
The Seasonal Shift
You have to change your habits when the seasons turn. In the spring and summer—the active growing season—the plant is hungry. It’s pushing out those cute new little light green leaves. You’ll find yourself watering maybe once a week.
But in the winter? The plant goes into a semi-dormant state. Growth slows down. The sun isn't as strong. This is when most money trees die because owners keep watering them on their summer schedule. In the winter, you might go three weeks without needing to touch the watering can. Trust the soil, not your habits.
Fertilizing While Watering
Should you add food? Sure, but only when it’s growing. Use a basic liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Do this once a month in the summer. Don't ever fertilize dry soil, though. It can burn the roots. Always water the plant a little bit first, then add the fertilizer-water mix. It’s a small detail that saves a lot of heartache.
Actionable Steps for a Thriving Money Tree
If you’re staring at your plant right now wondering what to do, follow this checklist. It’s the most straightforward way to get back on track.
- Check the pot. If it doesn't have a drainage hole, repot it into a terracotta or plastic pot that does. Use a well-draining mix—something like peat moss mixed with a lot of perlite or sand.
- Do the finger test. Stick your finger deep into the soil. If it's wet, wait. If it's dry to the second knuckle, proceed to step 3.
- The sink soak. Take the plant to the sink. Lukewarm water is best. Cold water can shock the tropical roots.
- Drench and drain. Pour water until it runs out the bottom. Let it sit for 20 minutes to ensure it's finished dripping.
- Assess the light. Move the plant to a spot with "bright indirect" light. Think of a spot where the sun almost hits the leaves but doesn't quite touch them.
- Boost the air. If your skin feels dry, the plant feels dry. Get a small humidifier or a pebble tray to help those leaves stay supple.
Keeping a money tree alive isn't about being a master gardener. It’s about being observant. These plants are actually pretty tough once you stop "loving" them to death with too much water. Let the soil dry out, give it a big drink when it needs it, and keep the air moist. Do that, and you’ll have a tree that actually looks like it belongs in a magazine rather than a compost bin.