You've got a slab of grey, cracked concrete. It’s ugly. Maybe it’s a patio that gets too hot in the summer, or a balcony that feels more like a prison yard than a relaxation spot. You want green. You want soft. Naturally, you’re thinking about installing artificial turf on concrete to fix the vibe.
It seems easy. Buy a roll, glue it down, call it a day. Right?
Actually, that’s how you end up with a moldy, bubbling mess that smells like a wet dog within six months. Putting fake grass on a hard, non-porous surface like concrete is vastly different from putting it on a crushed stone base in a backyard. You’re dealing with drainage physics that don't care about your weekend plans. Honestly, if you don't account for how water moves, you're just building a very expensive sponge.
The Drainage Problem Everyone Ignores
Concrete is usually sloped, but it isn't always sloped well.
When you lay a backing—typically a heavy latex or polyurethane layer—directly onto concrete, you create a seal. Rainwater hits the grass, seeps through the drainage holes in the turf, and then... sits there. It has nowhere to go. If your concrete has a "birdbath" (a slight dip where water pools), that water will stagnate under your turf.
This is where the smell comes from. Bacteria loves trapped moisture.
To do this right, you need to check the "fall" of your concrete. Grab a garden hose. Spray the area down and watch where the water goes. Does it run off the edge? Great. Does it sit in a giant puddle in the middle? You've got work to do.
Some pros, like the team at Purchase Green, suggest using a drainage cell or a "shock pad" layer. These are basically plastic grids or porous foam pads that lift the turf a few millimeters off the concrete. This creates a "void space." Water can then flow freely underneath the grass and follow the natural slope of the concrete to the drain or the garden edge. It’s an extra cost, but it's the difference between a lawn that lasts ten years and one you rip up in two because of the stench.
Choosing the Right Turf for Hard Surfaces
Not all grass is equal.
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If you're putting this on a balcony, weight matters. If it’s a high-traffic patio, durability is king. For concrete installs, I usually tell people to look for a shorter pile height. Why? Because you aren't infilling it as heavily as you would a traditional lawn.
Infill—the sand or acrylic beads you sprinkle into the grass—serves two purposes: it weighs the turf down and keeps the blades standing upright. On concrete, if you use too much infill and don't have a drainage cell, that sand can wash out and clog your patio drains. It's a nightmare.
Look for a product with a high "face weight" but a manageable pile height, maybe around 1.25 to 1.5 inches. You want something that feels plush underfoot but doesn't require four pounds of sand per square foot to look decent.
Why the Backing Matters
Check the backing of the turf you’re buying. You'll see two main types: hole-punched and flow-through (or "optimum flow").
Hole-punched is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a solid backing with holes every few inches. This is standard and usually fine, but on concrete, those holes have to align with your drainage plan. Flow-through backing is entirely porous. Water goes through every square inch of it. If you have a pet that will be using this area as a bathroom, flow-through backing is non-negotiable. You need to be able to flush that ammonia out completely, and hole-punched backing just won't cut it on a flat surface.
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The Step-by-Step Reality of Installing Artificial Turf on Concrete
First, clean the area. And I mean really clean it.
Any oil stains, loose paint, or crumbling concrete will prevent the adhesive from bonding. Use a power washer or a stiff deck brush with some trisodium phosphate (TSP) if it’s really grimy. Let it dry completely. This is the part people rush. If the concrete is even slightly damp, your glue will fail.
To Glue or Not to Glue?
You have two main options for securing the turf:
- Full Spread Glue: You cover the entire surface with outdoor-rated turf adhesive. This is common for commercial spots but makes the turf almost impossible to remove later without a jackhammer.
- Perimeter Bonding: You only glue the edges. This is usually the better bet for residential patios. It allows the center of the turf to "breathe" and move slightly with temperature changes.
Use a notched trowel. You want those little ridges in the glue to help it grab the backing. If you’re using seam tape for two pieces of turf, be meticulous. Turf grain direction is everything. If the "blades" on one piece are leaning toward the house and the other piece leans away, it will look like two different colors. Always point the grain toward the main viewing area (like your back door) for the most natural look.
The Secret of Infill
Even on concrete, you need some infill.
Silica sand is the standard. It’s cheap. However, if you have kids or pets, you might want to look into coated sands like Envirofill. It’s antimicrobial and doesn't get as hot. Concrete holds heat. In the summer, your "grass" can reach temperatures that will literally blister a paw or a bare foot. Using a cooling infill and a lighter-colored turf fiber can drop that temperature by 15-20 degrees.
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Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
- The "Wrinkle" Effect: Turf expands and contracts in the sun. If you glue it down tight on a cold morning, it might ripple when the sun hits it at noon. Let the turf "relax" on the concrete for at least 2-4 hours (preferably in the sun) before you do your final cuts and gluing.
- Ignoring the Edges: Unfinished edges look like a cheap rug. If your turf doesn't butt up against a wall, consider a transition strip or a metal "ever-edge."
- Using the Wrong Glue: Do not use Gorilla Glue or standard construction adhesive. You need a specialized turf glue that stays slightly flexible. Synthetic turf is basically plastic; it moves. Rigid glue will just crack and snap the bond.
Maintenance on a Hard Surface
Since you don't have soil underneath to absorb "stuff," maintenance is a bit different.
You'll need a power broom or a stiff nylon brush. Don't use metal—it'll shred the fibers. Every few months, brush the blades against the grain to perk them up. If you have a spill, use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water. It's safe, cheap, and kills any lingering bacteria without damaging the plastic.
If you have a dog, you'll need an enzyme cleaner. Without the soil's natural microbes to break down urea, the smell of dog pee on concrete can become overwhelming in the summer heat. A quick hose-down isn't enough; you need the enzymes to actually eat the proteins causing the odor.
Is It Worth It?
Honestly, yeah.
If you do the prep work—meaning the drainage and the cleaning—installing artificial turf on concrete can completely transform a dead space. It turns a hot, radiating heat sink into a usable "outdoor room." Just don't skip the drainage layer if you live somewhere with heavy rain. That’s the one mistake you can’t easily fix once the glue is dry.
Actionable Next Steps
- Perform a Water Test: Use a hose to identify where water pools on your concrete slab. If it stays for more than 20 minutes, plan for a drainage cell layer.
- Measure and Add 10%: Calculate your square footage but order extra. You’ll lose more than you think to "trimming" and ensuring the grain direction stays consistent.
- Order Samples: Don't buy from a thumbnail image online. Get physical samples and lay them on your concrete at different times of the day to see how the color changes and how much heat they retain.
- Source the Right Adhesive: Look for a polyurethane-based turf glue and a seam tape specifically designed for outdoor, all-weather use.