Honestly, walking into a big-box store and seeing those click-lock planks makes you think it’s a weekend afternoon project. You see the "easy-install" labels and figure you'll be done by dinner. But then you get home, pull up the old carpet, and realize your subfloor looks like the surface of the moon. This is where most people mess up how to install laminate flooring before they even open a single box.
It's not just about the clicking.
If your floor isn't level within 3/16 of an inch over a 10-foot span, that expensive "waterproof" laminate is going to creak, groan, and eventually snap at the joints. I've seen it a hundred times. People spend three grand on materials and zero hours on prep. Don't be that person.
The Acclimation Trap
You can't just buy the wood and slap it down. Well, you can, but it’ll probably buckle in six months. Laminate is basically a high-density fiberboard (HDF) core topped with a photo of wood and a wear layer. Because it’s mostly wood byproduct, it breathes. It expands. It shrinks.
Manufacturers like Pergo or Mohawk usually demand 48 hours of acclimation. Take the plastic wrap off. Stack the boxes in a "log cabin" style—crisscrossed—in the room where they’ll live. This lets air circulate. If your house is at 50% humidity and the warehouse was at 20%, those planks are going to grow. If they grow while they're already locked against your walls, they have nowhere to go but up. That’s how you get "peaking," where the joints point toward the ceiling like a tiny mountain range.
Subfloor Surgery
Don't skip the level check. Get a long straightedge—a 6-foot level or even a very straight 2x4—and sweep it across the room. If you see light under it, you have a dip. If it rocks, you have a hump.
For concrete, you need a self-leveling compound. For plywood, you might be sanding down high spots or screwing down loose sheets to stop squeaks. It's tedious work. It’s dusty. But the floor is only as good as what’s under it. Also, check for moisture. Concrete emits vapor. Always, always use a 6-mil poly film vapor barrier on concrete. Even if the laminate has a "pre-attached pad," that pad is for sound, not usually for moisture. Read the fine print on the box. Most warranties are void the second moisture touches that HDF core from underneath.
The Layout Strategy
Most people start at the longest wall and just go. That's fine, until you get to the other side of the room and realize your last row needs to be a half-inch wide. Good luck cutting that.
Measure the width of the room. Divide by the width of the plank. If the remainder is less than two or three inches, you need to rip (cut lengthwise) your first row. It balances the room. It looks professional. It also makes the floor more stable.
Avoiding "H-Joints" and "Steps"
Your floor should look random. If your end-joints are all lined up or look like a staircase, it looks like a DIY disaster. Aim for a "stagger" of at least 6 to 12 inches between joints in adjacent rows.
- Start your first row with a full plank.
- Start your second row with a cut piece that’s at least 12 inches long.
- Start the third row with something different.
The goal is chaos. Controlled, beautiful chaos.
The Actual Installation of Laminate Flooring
Now, the fun part. The first row is the most important. Use spacers. You need a 1/4" to 3/8" gap between the plank and the wall. This is the "expansion gap." If you don't leave this, the floor will eventually hit the wall as it expands and then... buckle. Cover this later with baseboards or quarter-round molding.
The click-lock system is usually an "angle-angle" or a "drop-lock." For angle-angle, you tilt the new plank at about 45 degrees, shove it into the groove of the previous one, and fold it down. You’ll hear it. You’ll feel it. If it’s not flush, don’t force it. Take it out, check for debris in the groove (sawdust is the enemy here), and try again.
Door Jambs: The Pro Move
Don’t try to cut the laminate to fit around the door casing. It looks terrible. Instead, take a scrap piece of flooring, lay it upside down against the casing, and use a pull saw (or an oscillating multi-tool) to cut the bottom of the wood trim. Slide the flooring under the trim. It’s the difference between a "handyman" job and a pro finish.
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Tools You Actually Need
Forget those "all-in-one" kits that come with the tiny plastic tapping block. Get a heavy-duty tapping block. You also need a pull bar—essential for the last plank of every row where you don’t have room to swing a hammer.
- Miter Saw: For those quick end cuts.
- Table Saw: For ripping the long pieces.
- Jigsaw: For weird notches around pipes or vents.
- Rubber Mallet: A white one, so you don't leave black scuff marks on your new floor.
Common Myths and Mistakes
People think "waterproof" means you can turn the room into a swimming pool. It doesn't. Brands like RevWood or various high-end laminates are highly water-resistant on the surface, meaning a spill can sit for 24-72 hours. But if water gets under the floor—say, from a leaky dishwasher—the floor is toasted. The edges are the weak point. In kitchens or bathrooms, many pros recommend a tiny bead of PVA Type II glue in the tongue-and-groove or a silicone sealant in the expansion gap near wet areas to keep the core dry.
Another mistake? Using the wrong underlayment. If you put a thick, squishy foam under a thin laminate, the joints will flex too much when you walk. That constant movement eventually snaps the locking mechanism. Use the density recommended by the manufacturer. If the floor feels "bouncy," you did it wrong.
Maintenance Without Ruining It
Stop using steam mops. Seriously. The heat and pressurized moisture can delaminate the top layer and swell the joints. Just use a microfiber mop and a dedicated laminate cleaner (like Bona). Keep it dry. Sweep often. Grit and sand on the bottom of shoes act like sandpaper on the wear layer. Even the best AC4 or AC5 rated laminate will eventually dull if you're tracking in gravel every day.
Actionable Next Steps
Before you buy a single square foot, grab a 10-foot straightedge and check your subfloor flatness. If you have more than a 3/16" gap anywhere, buy floor patch or self-leveler along with your flooring. Order 10% more material than your square footage to account for waste and mistakes. Once the flooring arrives, pull it out of the plastic and let it sit in the room for a full 48 hours. Don't rush the acclimation; it's the most common cause of floor failure in the first year. Finally, undercut your door jambs before you start row one to ensure a clean, professional look throughout the house.