You’re standing in the center of downtown Jacksonville, probably looking for a food truck or wondering why that fountain looks so 1970s. This is James Weldon Johnson Park. It’s 1.5 acres of brick and trees that feels like the city’s living room. Most people just walk through it to get to the library or MOCA next door.
They’re missing the point.
This isn't just a patch of grass. It’s Jacksonville’s oldest park, established way back in 1857. Back then, it was just a public square founded by Isaiah Hart. Honestly, if these bricks could talk, they’d scream. The park has seen everything from Confederate monuments to civil rights bloodbaths to modern-day jazz festivals.
The Name Change Wasn't Just About a Sign
For over a century, locals knew this place as Hemming Park. It was named after Charles C. Hemming, a Confederate veteran who donated a massive monument that stood here for 122 years. That monument is gone now. It was taken down in the middle of the night in June 2020.
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A few months later, the city renamed the space after James Weldon Johnson.
Who was he? Basically a polymath. He was a lawyer, a diplomat, and a key figure in the Harlem Renaissance. But for Jacksonville, he’s the man who wrote the lyrics to "Lift Ev’ry Voice and Sing" right here in town. You probably know it as the Black National Anthem. Renaming the park wasn't just a "woke" trend; it was a pivot back to a different kind of local heritage.
Ax Handle Saturday: The Day the Park Ran Red
You can't talk about James Weldon Johnson Park without talking about August 27, 1960. It’s a dark chapter. Roughly 200 white men, some linked to the KKK, showed up armed with baseball bats and heavy wooden ax handles. They weren't there for a picnic.
They targeted Black students from the NAACP Youth Council who had been staging peaceful sit-ins at nearby lunch counters like Woolworth’s.
The violence was brutal. It wasn't just a "clash." It was a mob attacking anyone who looked like they didn't belong in their version of Jacksonville. Police famously stood by and watched until a Black street gang called the "Boomerangs" stepped in to protect the students. Only then did the arrests start—mostly of the people being attacked.
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When you sit on a bench here today, you’re sitting on the site of a revolution.
Why 2026 is a Big Deal for the Park
If you visit right now, you’ll notice a lot of energy. That’s because 2026 marks the park’s 160th anniversary. The non-profit "Friends of James Weldon Johnson Park" is going all out. They’ve planned 160 events for the year.
It’s a mix of:
- Live at Lunch: Local musicians like Joe Watts playing jazz while you eat.
- Art Walk: The first Wednesday of every month, when the park turns into a massive outdoor gallery.
- Galaxy Fest: A STEM festival specifically for girls of color.
- The JAX Urban Book Festival: A celebration of literature and local authors.
Honestly, the park feels more alive than it has in decades. The "Charlie’s Cafe" area is usually packed with office workers from City Hall and the nearby federal building. It’s the kind of place where you’ll see a corporate lawyer in a $1,000 suit eating a taco next to a teenager on a skateboard.
The Redesign Controversy
There’s been a lot of talk about a massive redesign. The last big overhaul was in 1977, which gave us the heavy brick-and-mortar "plaza" look. Some people love the shade trees; others think the whole thing looks dated and "fortress-like."
The City of Jacksonville has been partnering with Hood Design Studio to figure out the next phase. The goal is to make it more "permeable." Basically, they want to take out some of the concrete barriers so the park flows better into the surrounding streets. They’re also looking at ways to honor the "Ax Handle Saturday" history more permanently.
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What You Should Actually Do There
Don't just walk through.
- Check the Food Truck Schedule: They rotate daily. One day it’s fusion tacos, the next it’s soul food or gourmet grilled cheese.
- Visit the Kids' Zone: If you have kids, the sculptural seating and turf area is a lifesaver in the middle of a concrete city.
- Look Up: The park is surrounded by some of the coolest architecture in Florida, including the Main Library (designed by Robert A.M. Stern) and the historic St. James Building (now City Hall).
- The Art Walk: If you can time your visit for the first Wednesday of the month, do it. The park is the "hub" for Art Walk, and the vibe is electric.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
- Parking is tricky. There are meters all around, but they fill up fast. Use the Duval County Courthouse garage if you're staying for more than an hour.
- Timing matters. The park is most vibrant between 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM on weekdays. This is when the "Live at Lunch" music is happening.
- It’s pet-friendly. Bring your dog, but keep them on a leash. There’s plenty of water bowls scattered around by the cafe area.
- Respect the history. Take five minutes to read the historical markers. The weight of what happened here in 1960 is important to feel.
James Weldon Johnson Park isn't just a place to wait for the bus. It’s a testament to how a city can change its mind about who it honors and how it uses its most valuable real estate. Whether you're there for the history or just a really good food truck burger, you're standing in the heart of Jacksonville's evolving story.