It’s the most famous trapezoid in the world. Honestly, if you saw a silhouette of that high-volume, shaved-side look on a billboard with zero text, you'd know exactly who it belongs to. Kim Jong Un hair has become a sort of geopolitical obsession, a meme, and a symbol of state power all rolled into one.
But here’s the thing: most of what we "know" about it is actually just internet lore.
Remember that 2014 story that went absolutely nuclear? The one saying every man in North Korea was legally forced to get the "Supreme Leader" cut? Yeah, it was basically a tall tale. Journalists on the ground in Pyongyang at the time, like the late Eric Talmadge from the AP, looked around and saw… well, normal hair. No legions of clones. No "tonsorial diktat" enforced by scissor-wielding police.
Still, just because the "mandatory" part was a myth doesn't mean the hair isn't a huge deal. It’s calculated. It’s high-maintenance. And it’s deeply weird if you look at it through a Western lens.
The Official Name: "Ambitious" Style
In North Korea, they don’t call it "The Kim." The state-approved name for this specific look is the "Ambitious" style (paegipaege).
It’s meant to look "sobering and stylish," according to the Rodong Sinmun, the official state newspaper. Think about that for a second. In a country where every image of the leader is curated to the millimeter, "ambition" is a very specific word choice. It’s not just about looking good; it’s about looking like you’re ready to lead a revolution. Or at least like you’ve got a lot of wax in your cabinet.
The technical specs? It involves shaving the sides and back almost to the scalp—about an inch above the ears—and leaving a long, rectangular block of hair on top that gets slicked back or parted.
Why the look changed
When Kim Jong Un first appeared on the scene around 2010, his hair was a bit softer. It looked remarkably like his grandfather’s, Kim Il Sung. That wasn't an accident. Kim Il Sung is still the most beloved figure in North Korean history, the "Eternal President." By mimicking his grandfather’s middle-parted, slightly shaggy 1940s look, Kim Jong Un was basically wearing a "trust me" sign on his head.
Then, around 2015, things got… architectural.
The hair got taller. The sides got sharper. It became the "trapezoid" we know today. Some stylists, like Ki Lee from the London salon Hurwundeki, have pointed out that getting that kind of volume on typical Asian hair is no joke. You’re looking at a combination of a perm for lift and a serious amount of high-hold wax or pomade to keep it from collapsing under its own weight.
The 28-Hairstyle Myth vs. Reality
You've probably seen those posters of the "28 state-approved hairstyles." They usually show 18 for women and 10 for men. People love to share these as proof of ultimate totalitarian control.
But the reality is a bit more boring.
Those posters are usually just "menu cards" in barbershops. They aren't the only choices; they're the suggested choices. Think of it like the "Great Clips" wall of photos. However, there is a grain of truth here. North Korea does have a thing against "anti-socialist" hair.
- No spiky hair: It’s seen as rebellious.
- No long hair for men: Back in 2004, the government even ran a TV show called Let's Trim Our Hair in Accordance with the Socialist Lifestyle.
- The Brain Theory: The show literally claimed that long hair "consumes nutrition" and "robs the brain of energy." Seriously. They argued that if you grow your hair too long, you’ll actually get dumber.
So, while you aren't forced to look exactly like the leader, you are forced to look "neat." If you’re a student and your hair touches your ears, you’re probably getting a lecture—or a very mandatory, very free haircut from your teacher.
The London "Bad Hair Day" Incident
If you want to know how sensitive the regime is about Kim Jong Un hair, look at what happened in Ealing, West London, back in 2014.
A barber named Mo Nabbach put up a poster in his window. It featured a photo of Kim Jong Un with the caption: "Bad Hair Day?" He was offering a 15% discount for men’s cuts.
Within a day, two guys in suits from the North Korean embassy (which is just a suburban house in Ealing, by the way) showed up. They didn't want a trim. They told him the poster was "disrespectful" and demanded he take it down. Mo told them this was England, not North Korea, and to go away.
It actually became a minor diplomatic incident. The North Korean embassy sent a formal letter of complaint to the British Foreign Office. Over a haircut.
The "Chinese Smuggler" Reputation
Ironically, before the "Ambitious" style was rebranded as the look of a leader, it had a much less prestigious reputation.
Defectors have noted that back in the day, the high-sided, buzzed look was often called the "Chinese smuggler" haircut. It was what people wore when they were trying to blend in near the border or were involved in the black market.
It’s a weird bit of irony. The look that now represents the peak of North Korean status used to be the look of the fringe.
Maintenance and the "Double Chin" Factor
Observers have also pointed out that the height of the hair serves a practical purpose: it makes Kim Jong Un look taller. He’s often seen in "elevator shoes" (lifts), and the extra two or three inches of hair help with the overall stature.
Also, the way the sides are shaved helps define a jawline that might otherwise be… well, a bit soft. It’s an optical illusion. By creating sharp, vertical lines on the side of the head, the focus moves away from the chin and toward the "power" of the forehead.
How to Get the Look (If You Really Want It)
Look, if you're doing this for a costume or just because you like the geometric challenge, here’s how it actually works.
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- Grow it out: You need at least 4-5 inches on top. If it's too short, it won't "flop" back correctly.
- The Fade: It’s not a skin fade. It’s a harsh, disconnected undercut. No blending. You want a sharp line where the hair goes from skin to full length.
- The Perm: If your hair is straight and heavy, you need a "root perm" to get that 90-degree lift off the scalp.
- The Product: Use a heavy-duty pomade. Apply it when the hair is slightly damp, blow-dry it upwards with a round brush, and then "shellac" it into place.
Basically, it’s a lot of work to look that specific.
Why We Can't Stop Looking
We focus on the hair because the rest of North Korea is so opaque. We can't see their internal policy meetings or their actual grain yields, but we can see the hair. We look for changes. Does it look thinner? Is it taller? Is he trying to look more like his father, Kim Jong Il, who preferred a "Speed Battle" bouffant?
In a world where everything is a state secret, a haircut is the only data point we get to see in high definition.
Actionable Insights
If you’re fascinated by the intersection of style and politics, or just trying to navigate the "fake news" surrounding North Korea, keep these points in mind:
- Verify the source: Most "weird North Korea" stories (like the mandatory hair law) originate from a single, unverified source before being amplified by tabloids. Check for on-the-ground confirmation.
- Context matters: Understand that in North Korea, hair isn't "fashion"—it’s a "socialist lifestyle" requirement. Grooming is viewed as a duty to the state.
- Visual cues: If you see Kim Jong Un change his hair, look at who he’s trying to evoke. A return to the middle part usually means he's leaning into his grandfather’s "man of the people" legacy.
The "Ambitious" style is likely here to stay as long as the "Ambitious" leader is. It’s more than just a bad hair day; it’s a carefully maintained pillar of a personality cult.