You’re driving down Route 5 in Charles City County, past the massive, iron-gated entrances of historic plantations, and it’s easy to feel like the James River is something you can only look at from a distance. But then there’s Lawrence Lewis Jr. Park. Honestly, if you aren’t looking for the turnoff at Wilcox Wharf Road, you’ll blow right past it. That would be a mistake.
This 24-acre park is basically the only public spot to touch the water for a 36-mile stretch between Henrico and James City County. It’s small. It’s quiet. It’s exactly what you need when the world gets too loud.
Why Lawrence Lewis Jr. Park is a Birdwatcher’s Fever Dream
If you show up in the winter, look up. No, seriously. The high-tension wire towers that march across the landscape aren't just industrial eyesores; they are prime real estate for bald eagles.
These birds love this specific bend of the James. You’ll see them hunched on the crossbeams or perched in the skeletons of dead timber in the ravine near the entrance. In the summer, the ospreys take over the towers, and the whole place feels like a high-altitude apartment complex for raptors.
There’s a 200-foot fishing and birding pier that juts out into the river. It gives you this massive, panoramic view of the water where you can spot great blue herons—there’s actually a rookery on the peninsula right across from the park. You can see the nests clearly if the light is right.
The Swamp Boardwalk and the Woodpeckers
Most people head straight for the water, but the wooded section is where the magic happens. A short swamp boardwalk cuts through a small bald cypress wetland.
It's a bit of a weird ecosystem. You’ve got these prehistoric-looking cypress knees poking out of the muck, and if it’s been raining, the mud is thick. But the standing dead trees are a magnet for every species of woodpecker in the region.
- Pileated woodpeckers
- Red-headed woodpeckers
- Flickers
Basically, if it drums on wood, it’s here.
The Secret Civil War History Under Your Feet
History in Virginia is usually shoved in your face with velvet ropes and tour guides in period costumes. Not here. At Lawrence Lewis Jr. Park, the history is just... there.
In June 1864, this spot was a chaotic scene of massive military logistics. This is where General Ulysses S. Grant’s Union Army crossed the James River. It was a move that totally caught Lee off guard. They built a 2,100-foot pontoon bridge just downriver from here to move over 100,000 troops, thousands of horses, and wagon trains toward the siege of Petersburg.
You’ll find a Virginia Civil War Trails exhibit that explains the whole thing. It’s weird to stand on the pier, looking at a few guys fishing for catfish, and realize that 160 years ago, this was the site of one of the most daring maneuvers of the war.
Practical Stuff: Boat Ramps and Bike Tents
Let’s talk logistics because getting stuck out here without a plan sucks. The park has two levels.
The upper level is where you’ll find the picnic shelters and the restrooms. The lower level is the river access. If you’re bringing a boat, the ramp is solid, but there’s a $5 fee for non-residents. Residents of Charles City County get in for free, which is a nice perk for the locals.
Launch Hours:
- November to April: Dawn to Dusk.
- May to September: 11:00 AM – 7:30 PM (Weekdays); 7:00 AM – 7:30 PM (Weekends).
One of the coolest additions in recent years is the primitive camping area. It was built specifically for people riding the Virginia Capital Trail or paddling the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail.
It’s not "glamping." It’s three tent sites and a group area. There are bike racks and a repair station. It fills a huge gap for long-distance cyclists who need a place to crash between Richmond and Williamsburg. You have to reserve these ahead of time by calling the county Parks and Rec office—don't just show up expecting to pitch a tent.
Who was Lawrence Lewis Jr. anyway?
The name might sound familiar if you’ve spent time in Florida or at the University of Virginia. Lawrence Lewis Jr. (1918–1995) was a businessman and a massive philanthropist. He was the nephew of Henry Flagler, the guy who basically built modern Florida.
Lewis spent a lot of his life and wealth preserving history. He was the force behind the founding of Flagler College in St. Augustine and served on the board of the Virginia Historical Society. He lived in Richmond later in life, and this park was named to honor his contributions to the state's heritage and natural beauty.
How to Make the Most of Your Visit
Don’t just come here to sit in your car. To actually "do" Lawrence Lewis Jr. Park, you need to bring a few things.
- Binoculars: Even if you aren't a "birder," seeing an eagle dive for a fish through a 10x lens is incredible.
- A Fishing Pole: The pier is famous for catfish. Just make sure you have your Virginia freshwater license.
- Bug Spray: The swamp boardwalk is beautiful, but the mosquitoes in July do not play around.
- Camera: The "LOVE" sign here is themed around the county’s heritage—Chickahominy symbols, the rivers, and local agriculture. It’s a great photo op.
If you’re looking for a massive park with playgrounds and concession stands, this isn't it. It's only 26 acres. But if you want to see the James River as it looked a century ago—mostly unspoiled, unhurried, and quiet—this is the spot.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
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Before you head out, check the Charles City County Parks and Recreation website for any seasonal maintenance closures on the boardwalk. If you’re planning to camp, call (804) 652-1601 to secure your spot, as the three sites book up fast during peak cycling season in the spring. Finally, if you're launching a boat, bring $5 in exact change for the drop box just in case the staff isn't on-site at the lower gate.