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You're technically still in Malawi, but your phone says you’re in Mozambique. It's confusing. Honestly, that’s just the start of the quirks when you visit Likoma Island in Malawi. This tiny piece of land—about 18 square kilometers—is an enclave. It sits entirely within Mozambican waters in Lake Malawi, yet it remains firmly Malawian.
It shouldn’t really work.
But it does. Most people head to Cape Maclear or Nkhata Bay when they hit the lake. They’re great, sure. But Likoma is different. It’s got this weird, dusty, Mediterranean-meets-African-scrubland vibe that you just don't find on the mainland. There are no paved roads. Scarcely any cars. Just a lot of baobabs, ancient mango trees, and a cathedral that looks like it was teleported from a rainy corner of Europe and dropped onto a tropical beach.
The Cathedral in the Dust
Let’s talk about St. Peter’s. It’s the elephant in the room. Or rather, the stone giant on the island. You’re walking through a village of mud-brick houses and suddenly, there it is. A massive Anglican cathedral. It’s roughly the same size as Winchester Cathedral in England.
Why is it here?
Missionaries. Specifically, the Universities' Mission to Central Africa (UMCA). They set up their headquarters here in the 1880s because Likoma was a place of safety from slave traders who prowled the mainland. They started building the current stone structure in 1903.
It’s not just a relic. On Sundays, the place vibrates. The singing is loud enough to rattle the stained glass—which, by the way, features local designs. You’ll see the soapstone carvings and the high altar, and for a second, you’ll forget you’re on an island in the middle of one of the world’s largest freshwater lakes. It’s a bit surreal. If you want to see it, just ask anyone in "town" (the main village). They’ll probably find the key-holder for you. It's very informal.
Getting There is Half the Battle
Most people take the Ilala. If you know, you know.
The MV Ilala is a legendary ferry that has been chugging up and down Lake Malawi since 1951. It’s a character. It’s also often late. Sometimes by hours, sometimes by a day. You don't take the Ilala if you're in a hurry. You take it for the experience of sleeping on the top deck under the stars while the boat stops at random points along the coast to ferry passengers and bags of maize back and forth in small rowboats.
If you have the budget, you fly. Nyassa Air Taxi runs small planes from Lilongwe. It takes about an hour. The view from the air is the only way to truly realize how isolated Likoma Island in Malawi actually is. You see the deep blue of the lake, the turquoise shallows, and then this little brown-and-green speck.
The Water and the "Cichlid" Obsession
Lake Malawi is famous for its fish. Specifically, cichlids.
If you’ve ever owned a colorful tropical fish tank, there’s a massive chance your fish’s ancestors came from right here. Likoma has species that exist nowhere else on Earth. Not even on the other side of the lake. Just around this one island.
Snorkeling here is basically like swimming in a giant, lukewarm aquarium. The water is incredibly clear, especially around the rocky outcrops near Kaya Mawa or Mango Drift. You don't need a boat. You just walk off the beach with a mask.
One thing to keep in mind: Bilharzia.
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Travelers always ask about it. It’s a parasite found in many African lakes. Is it at Likoma? Sometimes. The risk is generally lower in areas where the water is deeper or has more wave action, but it’s never zero. Most long-term expats just take a pill (Praziquantel) a few weeks after they leave. Talk to a local doctor or the staff at your lodge; they deal with this every day and won't sugarcoat it.
Where to Actually Stay
Likoma isn't exactly overflowing with hotels. You basically have three tiers.
Kaya Mawa is the luxury pick. It’s world-class. Each room is built into the rocks or right on the sand. It’s the kind of place people go for honeymoons when they want to go off the grid but still have high-thread-count sheets and a decent wine list. It’s eco-friendly too; they use solar power and employ a huge chunk of the local community.
Then you have Mango Drift. It’s on the other side of the island (the west side). It’s more "backpacker-plus." Think beach huts, a lively bar, and amazing sunsets. It’s more affordable and has a great social vibe.
If you want to go even simpler, there are local rest houses in the village. It’ll be hot. The electricity might cut out. But you’ll be right in the thick of it.
The "Chizumulu" Factor
You can’t talk about Likoma without mentioning its smaller brother, Chizumulu Island. It’s even more remote. Most people skip it. That’s a mistake if you want to see what "unplugged" really looks like. There are no cars on Chizumulu. None. Just narrow paths and very friendly people.
The two islands are connected by small boats and the Ilala. If Likoma feels like a slow-paced escape, Chizumulu feels like the world ended forty years ago and everyone just decided to have a nice time by the water anyway.
Baobabs and Beer
The landscape of Likoma is dominated by baobab trees. They look like they were planted upside down. Locals use the fruit to make a tart, powdery juice that’s actually pretty refreshing.
In the evenings, everyone gravitates toward the "center" of the island. There are a few small bars where you can grab a cold Carlsberg (the national beer of Malawi—everyone just calls it a "Green").
Expect to talk to people.
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Malawians are famously friendly—the "Warm Heart of Africa" isn't just a tourism slogan. On Likoma, because it’s so small, everyone knows everyone. Within two days, you’ll be greeting people by name. It’s that kind of place. You aren't just a tourist; you're a temporary neighbor.
Realities of Island Life
It isn't all perfect sunsets. Likoma faces real challenges.
Electricity is mostly provided by generators and solar, and it can be patchy. Logistics are a nightmare. Everything—fuel, flour, cement, beer—has to come in by boat. This means things can be expensive compared to the mainland. If the Ilala breaks down, the island feels the pinch.
Healthcare is limited. There’s a small hospital, but for anything serious, you’re looking at an emergency flight to Lilongwe or a long boat ride.
Environmental conservation is also a big deal. The lake is the island’s lifeblood. Overfishing is a constant threat, and lodges like Kaya Mawa work with local communities to create "no-take" zones to protect the fish stocks. When you visit, be mindful of your plastic waste. There’s no magical "away" to throw things on an island.
Essential Practical Tips
- Money: There are no ATMs on the island. Let me say that again. No ATMs. You must bring enough Malawi Kwacha from the mainland to cover your stay, plus a bit extra for emergencies. Some high-end lodges take cards, but the village market definitely won't.
- Connectivity: Airtel and TNM both have towers on the island. Data is surprisingly okay in the main village, but it gets spotty behind the hills. Don't expect to stream 4K video.
- Walking: The island is small enough to walk across in about an hour or two. Bring decent sandals. The ground is sandy and rocky.
- The Mozambican Border: Even though you're surrounded by Mozambique, you don't need a Mozambican visa to visit Likoma. You stay under Malawian jurisdiction. Just don't try to swim to the mainland unless you want a very complicated conversation with border guards.
Actionable Next Steps
If you're actually planning to go, do these things in this order:
- Check the Ilala Schedule: Look at the latest ferry schedule on the Malawi Shipping Services website or local forums, but remember it’s a "suggestion," not a promise.
- Book Your Flight Early: If you're flying, Nyassa Air Taxi fills up fast. These are 4- to 6-seater planes.
- Get Your Cash in Lilongwe or Mzuzu: Do not wait until you get to Nkhata Bay to find an ATM. They often run out of money on weekends.
- Pack a Power Bank: Even the nice lodges rely on solar or generators that might go off at night.
- Buy a Local SIM: It’s the cheapest way to stay in touch and much more reliable than hotel Wi-Fi.
Likoma Island in Malawi isn't a place for people who want a curated, resort-only experience. It’s for people who don't mind a bit of dust, a bit of heat, and a lot of character. It’s one of those rare places that actually feels like an adventure from the moment you step off the boat.