You’ve definitely seen it. Even if you don't know the name, if you’ve ever walked across Westminster Bridge or taken a ride on the London Eye, that massive, curving stone facade across the river from Big Ben is impossible to miss. That’s London County Hall. It’s one of those buildings that looks like it’s been there since the dawn of time, but its history is actually a chaotic, messy, and surprisingly dramatic reflection of how London itself has changed over the last century.
Most people just walk past it on their way to grab a selfie with the Elizabeth Tower. Honestly, that's a mistake.
The Weird History of London County Hall
Building this thing was a nightmare. Work started back in 1911, designed by Ralph Knott, who was only 29 when he won the competition to build the headquarters for the London County Council (LCC). Imagine being in your twenties and being told to design a building that would define the South Bank.
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Then World War I happened. Construction ground to a halt. It wasn’t actually opened until 1922 by King George V, and even then, it wasn't really "finished" until the late 1950s. If you look closely at the stonework, you can almost see the different eras of British architecture trying to play nice with each other. For decades, this was the beating heart of London's local government. It was where big, world-changing decisions about housing, education, and transport were made.
Then came Margaret Thatcher.
In the 1980s, the building was the site of a legendary political feud between the Conservative government and the Greater London Council (GLC), led by Ken Livingstone. Livingstone famously used the roof of London County Hall to post massive banners visible from Parliament across the river, highlighting unemployment figures and trolling the government. Thatcher eventually abolished the GLC entirely in 1986. The building went silent. It was empty. A giant, Portland stone ghost sitting on the most valuable real estate in Europe.
From Politics to Popcorn and Predators
What do you do with a massive, Grade II* listed building that the government doesn't want anymore? You sell it to a Japanese entertainment company, apparently. In the early 90s, the Shirayama Shokusan Corporation bought the site. Since then, it’s basically become a massive "fun house" for tourists.
It’s kind of wild when you think about it. The rooms where politicians used to debate the future of the city now house the Sea Life London Aquarium, the London Dungeon, and Shrek’s Adventure. You can literally walk from a room full of sharks into a high-end luxury hotel without leaving the building complex.
The building is huge. Like, really huge. It’s split into several sections: the North Block, the South Block, and the main Riverside Building. While the river-facing side is all about tourism and fancy hotels like the London Marriott Hotel County Hall, the back sections contain offices and residential apartments.
What’s Actually Inside London County Hall Today?
If you're planning a visit, don't expect a guided tour of government history. That’s not what this place is anymore.
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The Sea Life London Aquarium is the big hitter here. It’s tucked away in the basement and lower levels. They have this glass walkway over a shark tank that is genuinely terrifying if you have a thing about heights or teeth. They do a lot of actual conservation work there too, focusing on seahorse breeding and coral protection, which is pretty cool for a place located under a former government office.
Right next door is The London Dungeon. It’s campy, it’s loud, and it’s full of actors screaming in your face about the plague. Is it "historical"? Sorta. Is it a fun way to spend an hour if you like jump scares? Definitely.
Then there is the County Hall Gallery. This is where things get a bit more sophisticated. For a long time, it housed the Saatchi Gallery before it moved to Chelsea. Now, the space is often used for massive immersive exhibitions. For example, Witness for the Prosecution by Agatha Christie has been running in the actual old Council Chamber for years. Watching a courtroom drama in a room that was designed to be a literal seat of power adds a layer of realism you just can't get in a standard West End theatre.
The Marriott and the Views
If you have the budget, the Marriott inside the building is one of the most unique stays in the city. Because it's a historic building, the rooms aren't your typical cookie-cutter hotel boxes. Some have massive vaulted ceilings; others have original wood paneling. But the real draw? The views. If you get a river-view room, you are staring directly at the Houses of Parliament. At night, when everything is lit up, it’s arguably the best view in London.
You’ve also got the Gillray’s Steakhouse & Bar inside. It’s named after the 18th-century caricaturist James Gillray. They have over 100 types of gin. Honestly, sitting there with a G&T looking at the Thames is a much better experience than fighting the crowds on the South Bank path outside.
Why Nobody Talks About the Architecture
We usually ignore the building because we're looking at the London Eye, which sits right in front of it. But Knott’s design is a masterpiece of "Edwardian Baroque."
The way the building curves follows the bend of the river. It’s meant to look solid, dependable, and slightly intimidating. It’s built primarily of Portland stone—the same stuff used for St. Paul’s Cathedral and Buckingham Palace. The sculptures on the exterior are also worth a look; they represent themes like "Education" and "Guardianship," remnants of its original purpose as a civic hub.
If you walk around to the Belvedere Road side (the back of the building), you’ll see a much more utilitarian, brick-heavy style. It’s like the building has a "business in the front, party in the back" vibe, except the business is the beautiful stone facade and the back is the gritty reality of 20th-century office extensions.
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Surprising Facts You Probably Didn't Know
- The Roman Ship: When they were excavating the site in 1910, they found a 3rd-century Roman galley. It was preserved in the mud of the Thames for nearly 1,700 years. You can't see it in the building anymore—it was moved to the Museum of London—but it’s a reminder that this specific spot has been central to London life forever.
- The Name: People often call the whole area "County Hall," but technically, the "County Hall" part refers to the central Riverside Building. The surrounding blocks have their own identities.
- The "Troll" Banners: During the GLC days, the unemployment banners were so effective because the bridge was the main route for MPs traveling to Parliament. They couldn't ignore the numbers because they were literally staring them in the face every morning.
- The Library: The building used to house one of the most extensive archives of London history. Much of that has been distributed to other libraries, but the soul of the building is still tied to those millions of documents and maps.
Is It Worth Visiting London County Hall?
Honestly, it depends on what you’re looking for.
If you want a quiet, historical museum experience, you might be disappointed. The ground floor and basement are high-traffic tourist zones. It’s loud. There are a lot of queues for the London Eye and the Aquarium.
However, if you want to see a weird, hybrid piece of London history, it's fascinating. You can grab a coffee, sit on the steps of the Jubilee Gardens right next to it, and just look at the scale of the thing. It represents a time when London was trying to define itself as a modern, organized metropolis.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
- Book the Theatre: If you do one thing inside the building, see Witness for the Prosecution. Being in the Council Chamber is the only way to see the "real" interior of the building without staying in the hotel.
- The "Secret" Entrance: Most people crowd the riverfront. If you want a slightly quieter way into the various attractions, use the entrances on Belvedere Road at the back.
- Timing is Everything: If you're going to the Aquarium or the Dungeons, go early. Like, "when they open" early. By 2:00 PM, the area around London County Hall is a sea of school groups and tourists.
- Look Up: Don't just look at the shops. Look at the bronze doors and the ornate carvings near the roofline. The detail is incredible and mostly ignored by everyone around you.
The reality of London County Hall is that it's a survivor. It survived world wars, political executions, and the threat of being turned into a luxury shopping mall. Today, it’s a weird mix of high-end luxury and mass-market tourism. It shouldn't work, but somehow, it feels exactly like London: a bit of everything, all piled on top of each other, right by the river.
Next time you’re crossing Westminster Bridge, don't just look at the clock tower. Turn around. Look at the giant stone curve of County Hall and remember that beneath the Shrek posters and the aquarium tanks, there's a century of London's political soul still hanging out in the hallways.
To get the most out of your visit, start by checking the performance schedule for the Chamber theatre. Following that, plan your route from Waterloo Station rather than Westminster; the walk across the Golden Jubilee Bridges offers a much better perspective of the building's scale than the crowded Westminster Bridge approach. Finally, if you're interested in the history, take ten minutes to walk the full perimeter of the building on Belvedere Road to see where the grand architecture of the front gives way to the functional reality of the city's old administrative heart.