So, you want long layers with face frame. It’s the request heard ‘round the salon world, honestly. You’ve seen it on every Pinterest board and Instagram reel for the last three years. But here is the thing: most people walk into the salon asking for this look without actually knowing what it entails for their specific hair type. It's not just "cutting some pieces shorter in the front." It’s a precise architectural choice that can either make you look like a 90s supermodel or leave you with weird, choppy "shelves" that won't grow out for a year.
I’ve spent years watching people struggle with this. They want the movement. They want the volume. But they don't want the maintenance.
The reality is that long layers with face frame isn't a "wash and go" style for 90% of the population. Unless you have that perfect, slightly coarse natural wave, you’re going to have to pick up a round brush. Or a Dyson. Or something. If you just let it air dry, those beautiful face-framing pieces often just look like broken hair. Let’s get into why this cut is so popular, the physics of how it actually works, and why your stylist might be hesitating when you show them that one photo of Matilda Djerf.
The Physics of the Frame
When we talk about long layers with face frame, we are talking about two distinct cutting techniques happening at once. The long layers handle the bulk and the weight in the back and sides. The face frame—often called "curtain layers" or "money piece layers"—is all about the perimeter.
Think of it like a picture frame. If the frame is too heavy, you don't see the art. If it’s too thin, it looks cheap.
A proper face frame starts anywhere from the cheekbone to the chin and blends down into the length. If your stylist starts the frame too high and you have a round face shape, it’s going to emphasize the widest part of your face. Not great. On the flip side, if the layers start too low, they don't really "frame" anything; they just look like a mistake.
The "long" part of the layers is equally tricky. If you have fine hair, too many layers will make your ends look transparent. You know that "scraggly" look? That’s usually the result of someone with fine hair asking for "lots of movement." There’s a limit to how much hair you can cut away before the structure collapses.
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Why the "90s Supermodel" Look is Harder Than It Looks
We’ve all seen the videos of the "Butterfly Cut" or the "Hush Cut." These are basically just marketing terms for long layers with face frame. They rely on a lot of internal tension.
When a stylist cuts a face frame, they are usually pulling the hair forward—over-directing it—and cutting at an angle. When that hair falls back, it creates a soft, sweeping curve. But here is the catch: hair grows. Fast. A face frame that hits your cheekbones today will be poking you in the eye in three weeks.
Most people don't realize that to keep that "snatched" look, you need a trim every 6 to 8 weeks. If you wait 4 months, your face frame is just... more layers. It loses the intentionality.
And let's talk about the blow-dry. To get those pieces to flip away from the face, you need heat. You need a medium-sized round brush and you need to dry the hair away from your face. If you dry it flat, it will just hang there. It won't have that "bounce" you see on TikTok.
Texture Matters More Than You Think
If you have pin-straight hair, long layers with face frame can be a nightmare. Without a curl or a bend, the layers just look like steps. You see every single cut mark. Stylists usually have to go back in with thinning shears or a razor to "shatter" the ends so they blend.
However, if you have curly hair (type 3A and up), face framing is a godsend. It removes the "triangle hair" effect. By cutting shorter pieces around the face, you allow the curls to spring up, which creates height and prevents the weight of the hair from pulling everything down flat.
But even then, there’s a risk.
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Curly hair shrinks. If your stylist cuts a face frame while your hair is wet and stretched out, that "chin-length" layer might bounce up to your nose once it dries. Always, always make sure your stylist is accounting for shrinkage.
The "Matilda Djerf" Effect and the Reality Check
We have to talk about the influence of Swedish influencer Matilda Djerf. She basically single-handedly revived the long layers with face frame trend for the Gen Z and Millennial crowd. Her hair looks effortless. It looks thick. It looks bouncy.
But Matilda has a lot of hair.
If you have thin or medium density, you can’t get that same look without extensions. I’ve seen so many people walk out of salons disappointed because their hair doesn't have the "fluff" they saw online. Your stylist can give you the shape, but they can't give you more hair follicles.
If you’re on the thinner side, ask for "ghost layers." These are internal layers that add movement without sacrificing the thickness of your perimeter. Pair that with a light face frame that starts below the chin, and you get the vibe without the "see-through" ends.
How to Talk to Your Stylist (Without Sounding Like an Amateur)
Don't just say "I want long layers with face frame." That’s too vague. You need to be specific about where you want the shortest piece to hit.
- The Cheekbone: High drama, emphasizes eyes, but requires constant styling.
- The Jawline: Great for "squaring off" a soft face shape.
- The Collarbone: The "safe" zone. Easy to tuck behind your ears.
Also, ask about the "connection." Do you want the face frame to blend seamlessly into the rest of the layers, or do you want it to be "disconnected"? Disconnected face frames (like the "Hime" cut or heavy curtain bangs) are very trendy right now, but they are a commitment. They don't blend. They are a Statement with a capital S.
Maintenance and the "Grown Out" Phase
Honestly, the best thing about long layers with face frame is the grow-out, provided it was cut well. As the layers get longer, they just become "shape." You don't get that awkward "mullet" phase that you get with shags or pixies.
But you will deal with the "eye-stabbing" phase. There is a specific two-week window where your face frame is exactly the wrong length. It’s too long to be a bang and too short to stay behind your ear. Invest in some cute clips. You'll need them.
Practical Steps for Styling at Home
If you've just come home with new layers and you're staring in the mirror wondering how to make them move, here is your game plan.
Stop air-drying. At least the front. Even if you air-dry the back, take five minutes to blow-dry the face-framing pieces. Use a lightweight volumizing mousse on damp hair—something like the Living Proof Full Mousse or even a classic like L'Oreal Poutre.
Directional drying. Blow-dry the front pieces forward, toward your nose, then flip them back. This creates that "swoop." If you only dry them backward, they will lay flat. It sounds counterintuitive, but trust the process.
The Velcro Roller trick. If you don't have a round brush (or the coordination to use one), get two large Velcro rollers. Blow-dry the face frame until it's 90% dry, wrap it around the rollers (rolling away from your face), and let them sit while you do your makeup. Pop them out, shake it out, and boom—instant volume.
Finish with a dry texture spray. Skip the hairspray. Hairspray makes layers crunchy and heavy. You want a dry texture spray (like Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray or the Amika Un.Done) to give the layers "grip." This keeps them from clumped together into one big solid mass of hair.
The Final Verdict
The long layers with face frame combo is a classic for a reason. It’s flattering on almost everyone because it’s customizable. It can hide a forehead, highlight a jawline, or give life to limp strands.
But it’s a partnership between you and your stylist. You provide the hair and the maintenance; they provide the geometry. If you aren't willing to spend ten minutes in the morning with a blow-dryer, maybe stick to a blunt cut. But if you want that "just stepped out of a salon" bounce every day, the layers are your best friend.
Check your hair density before you go. If you can see your scalp when your hair is wet, go easy on the layers. If you have a mane like a lion, go wild. Just remember: you can always cut more off, but you can't put it back. Start with longer face-framing pieces—maybe starting at the collarbone—and see how you feel. You can always go shorter next time.
Next Steps for Your Hair Journey
Assess your daily routine. Be honest about whether you will actually style those shorter front pieces every morning. If the answer is no, ask for "long, blended framing" rather than a dramatic "butterfly" effect.
Schedule a "dusting." If you love the look, book a 30-minute "bang and frame trim" for six weeks out. Most salons offer this at a lower price than a full cut, and it keeps the shape from becoming unruly.
Invest in the right tools. A 1.5-inch to 2-inch round brush is the sweet spot for most face frames. If you have the budget, a multi-styler tool can make the "flick" at the ends much easier to achieve for beginners.