Let's be honest about the long shag haircut men are wearing lately. It isn't just a messy pile of hair. It's a precise architectural choice. You’ve probably seen it on your social feed—that effortless, slightly "I just rolled out of bed but I also happen to own a vintage Porsche" vibe. But here's the kicker: it’s actually incredibly difficult to get right if your barber doesn't understand weight distribution.
Hair trends are cyclical. We know this. But the shag is different because it isn't a fade. It isn't a buzz. It’s a rebellion against the hyper-groomed, lineup-heavy styles that dominated the 2010s.
The Resurrection of the Shag
The long shag haircut men are gravitating toward today isn't a direct carbon copy of Mick Jagger in 1972. It’s evolved. Back then, it was all about the "mullet-lite" silhouette—short on top, long in the back, and very thin on the sides. Today, it’s about volume and texture. It's about movement.
Think about Paul Mescal or Jacob Elordi. They’ve basically become the unofficial poster boys for this "soft boy" aesthetic that relies heavily on a shaggy, layered cut. It works because it softens the jawline. It looks lived-in. It feels human.
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Most guys think they can just stop getting haircuts and eventually "land" on a shag. Nope. That’s just having long, flat hair. To get a real shag, you have to actually cut more hair off than you'd expect to create those internal layers that give the style its lift.
What Your Barber Needs to Know (And What You Should Ask For)
If you walk into a shop and just say "I want a shag," you're gambling. You might walk out looking like a 1980s hair metal bassist. Not great.
Instead, talk about perimeter length and crown volume. You want the length to hit somewhere between the mid-neck and the shoulders. But the magic happens in the middle. Ask for "razor-cut layers" if your hair is thick. The razor thins out the ends, preventing that dreaded "triangle head" shape where the bottom of your hair poofs out wider than the top.
- The Fringe: This is the soul of the look. It should be choppy. It should hit the eyebrows or even hang slightly into the eyes.
- The Sides: These need to be feathered back. You aren't looking for a sideburn fade; you want hair that can tuck behind the ear.
- The Back: Keep it messy. If it looks too clean, it isn't a shag.
Texture is everything here. If you have pin-straight hair, you're going to need product. If you have curls, the shag is basically a cheat code for looking good with zero effort.
Breaking Down the "Cool Factor"
Why does it work?
Honestly, it’s the lack of symmetry. We spend so much time trying to make our lives and our hair perfectly balanced. The shag celebrates the chaos. It’s a versatile beast. You can wear it to a wedding with a bit of sea salt spray and a side part, or you can let it go wild at a concert.
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British stylist Luke Hersheson has often spoken about the "invisible haircut"—the idea that a great cut shouldn't look like you just walked out of a salon. The long shag haircut men are asking for fits this philosophy perfectly. It looks better three weeks after the cut than it does on day one.
Maintenance: The Great Lie
People tell you the shag is "no maintenance."
That’s a lie. Sorta.
It’s low maintenance in terms of styling time, but high maintenance in terms of product knowledge. You can't just use 3-in-1 shampoo and expect to look like a rock star. Your hair will just look like a dry hay bale.
You need moisture. A good leave-in conditioner is non-negotiable. Because you have all these layers, the ends are exposed. If they get dry, they frizz. If they frizz, the silhouette of the haircut is ruined. You want "piecey" texture, not "poofy" volume.
The Science of the Silhouette
Let's get technical for a second. The shag works because of negative space. By removing weight from the mid-lengths of the hair, you're allowing the bottom layers to move independently.
In a standard long-hair look, the weight of the hair pulls everything down flat against the scalp. This is why many men think long hair makes them look "tired" or "washed out." The shag fixes this by moving the visual weight upward toward the cheekbones and eyes. It’s basically a non-surgical facelift.
For guys with thinning hair, a shorter version of the shag can actually disguise recession. By bringing layers forward into a fringe, you cover the hairline while the texture on top creates the illusion of density. It’s a strategic play.
Real-World Examples: Not Just for Celebrities
I spoke with a stylist in Brooklyn last week who said 40% of his male clients are moving away from fades toward some variation of the shag. It’s a shift in masculine identity. We're moving away from the "corporate soldier" look toward something more creative and fluid.
Take the "Wolf Cut," for instance. It's essentially a high-contrast shag. It’s been huge on TikTok and Instagram. While the Wolf Cut is a bit more extreme—heavy layers and a very thin bottom—the long shag haircut men are wearing in professional settings is more blended.
It’s the difference between looking like you’re in a garage band and looking like you own the record label.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Too much thinning shear: If your barber goes overboard with the thinning shears, you’ll end up with "flyaways" that never lay flat.
- The "Mullet Trap": If the front is too short and the back is too long, you’ve crossed the border into mullet territory. Unless that’s the goal, keep the transition between the front layers and the back length gradual.
- Ignoring face shape: If you have a very round face, an extremely voluminous shag might make it look rounder. Ask for more length in the front to elongate the face.
How to Style It at Home
Don't overcomplicate this.
Wash your hair. Pat it dry with a towel—don't rub it like you're trying to start a fire. Rubbing creates frizz. While it's damp, apply a golf-ball-sized amount of mousse or a few sprays of sea salt water.
Pro tip: Scrunch the hair upward with your hands.
Let it air dry. If you use a blow dryer, use a diffuser attachment. If you don't have a diffuser, you're just going to blow the layers all over the place and end up looking like a dandelion. Once it's dry, use a tiny bit of matte paste on just the ends of the hair to give it that "separated" look.
The Longevity of the Look
Is the shag a fad?
Probably not. It’s too functional to disappear. As long as men want hair that looks good without requiring a 30-minute ritual every morning, the shag will have a place. It’s a foundational cut. It’s the "white t-shirt" of hairstyles—classic, adaptable, and a little bit rugged.
If you're sitting on the fence, just do it. Hair grows back. But the feeling of shaking out a fresh set of layers and actually feeling like yourself? That's worth the risk.
Actionable Next Steps for the Perfect Shag
- Find a Stylist, Not Just a Barber: Look for someone who specializes in "longer men's styles" or "gender-neutral cutting." Traditional barbers who only use clippers might struggle with the scissor-over-comb and razor work required for a true shag.
- The Reference Photo Rule: Never show a photo of a celebrity whose hair texture is completely different from yours. If you have curly hair, don't show your stylist a picture of Timothée Chalamet. Look for someone with your specific hair type.
- Invest in "Grit": The shag looks worst when it's squeaky clean. Buy a dry shampoo or a texture powder. You want your hair to have a bit of "grit" so the layers stay separated and don't clump together into one big mass.
- Schedule a "Clean-Up" Every 8 Weeks: Even though it grows out well, you'll need to get the weight redistributed every couple of months. The length might be fine, but the "bulk" will eventually migrate to the wrong parts of your head.
- Conditioning is King: Use a deep conditioning mask once a week. The longer your hair gets, the older the ends are. Treat them with some respect if you want them to look intentional rather than accidental.