You're looking at a map of Tuscany and your eyes probably dart straight to the heavy hitters. Florence. Pisa. Maybe Siena. But there is this little perfectly shaped circle sitting just inland from the coast that most people breeze past on their way to the Leaning Tower. That’s Lucca. Honestly, if you don't zoom in enough, it just looks like a green ring, but that ring is actually the city's greatest flex.
Lucca is tucked away in the Serchio River valley. It's basically a fortress that decided to become a garden. While other Italian cities tore down their walls to make room for cars and "progress," Lucca just... didn't. They kept them. Then, in a stroke of 19th-century genius, they planted trees on top.
Where Exactly is Lucca Italy on the Map?
If you want to find it without a GPS, look for the space between the Ligurian Sea and the jagged peaks of the Apuan Alps. It's about 80 kilometers west of Florence and a tiny 20-kilometer hop northeast of Pisa.
Geography matters here.
Because Lucca sits on a flat, fertile plain, it’s one of the few places in Tuscany where you won’t destroy your calves walking uphill all day. Well, unless you climb the towers. We'll get to those. The city is officially at 43°50′N 10°30′E. But coordinates are boring. What’s cool is how the map reveals a Roman "grid" inside a Renaissance "circle."
The outer ring is a 4.2-kilometer loop of red brick and earth. Inside, the streets don't follow the circle; they follow the ghost of a Roman camp. If you look at an aerial view, you can actually see where the Roman Forum used to be because the streets still collide there at right angles.
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The Secret Geometry of the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro
You’ve likely seen photos of a yellow, elliptical square filled with café tables. Most tourists think it was designed to look "cute" or "European." Nope. It's actually a literal footprint.
Back in the 2nd century, this was a Roman amphitheater.
Over centuries, people just built their houses into the original spectator stands. They didn't tear the stadium down; they repurposed it. This is why the "square" is actually an oval. On a map, it looks like a thumbprint in the northern part of the city center.
You can only enter through four small arched gateways. It feels like entering a secret room. If you’re standing in the middle, look at the ground. You’ll see a cross carved into a tile that marks the exact center of the ancient arena where gladiators used to bleed. Kinda heavy for a spot where you're now sipping a spritz, right?
Why the "Hundred Churches" Label Isn't a Joke
They call Lucca the "City of a Hundred Churches."
It sounds like marketing fluff.
It isn't.
Historically, Lucca was a massive stop on the Via Francigena—the ancient pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome. Every wealthy family wanted to buy their way into heaven by building a private chapel or a grand basilica.
Take the San Martino Cathedral. If you look at it closely, the facade is lopsided. One arch is smaller than the others. Why? Because they ran out of room against the pre-existing bell tower and just decided to "make it fit."
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Then there’s San Michele in Foro. It’s located exactly where the Roman Forum sat on the map. The top of the church has a massive statue of Archangel Michael. Legend says he has a real diamond on his finger that you can see glowing at night if the light hits it just right. (I’ve looked. Honestly? I think it’s just shiny glass, but the locals swear by the diamond story.)
Navigating the Walls: A Local’s Cheat Sheet
The walls are the city's living room.
Bikes rule here.
You can rent a "grillo" (those four-wheeled pedal buggies) and do the whole 4-kilometer loop in about 20 minutes. But don't. Stop at the bastions. There are 11 of them. Each one was built to hold cannons, but now they hold playgrounds, cafes, and even a botanical garden.
- The Northern Stretch: Best views of the Apuan Alps.
- The Southern Stretch: You’ll see the train station and the Nottolini Aqueduct—a 19th-century masterpiece that looks like it belongs in ancient Rome.
- The Hidden Tunnels: You can actually go inside the walls. Look for the "Sortite" signs. These were secret sally ports for soldiers; now they’re cool, damp shortcuts for pedestrians.
The Tower with a Forest on Top
If you find the Guinigi Tower on your map, you’ll notice it looks like it has a bad haircut. Those are trees. Real, 500-year-old Holm Oaks growing out of the brickwork 45 meters in the air.
The Guinigi family was the "top dog" in Lucca during the 1300s. They wanted a garden but didn't have space on the ground, so they built it in the sky. It was a status symbol. "Look at us, we have trees where you have tiles."
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Climbing the 232 steps is a workout.
The stairs get narrower as you go.
The view from the top is the best orientation you'll get of Lucca's layout. You can see the red-tiled roofs, the "Hundred Churches," and the green ring of the walls holding it all together.
How to Get There (And Where to Park)
Here is the thing about Lucca: It hates cars.
Or rather, the walls do.
If you are driving, do not—I repeat, do not—try to drive into the city center unless you want a massive fine from the ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone) cameras. They are ruthless.
- By Train: This is the pro move. The Lucca station is just outside the southern wall (Porta San Pietro). You walk out of the station, cross the street, and you’re in.
- By Car: Park at "Parcheggio Carducci" or "Palasport." They are easy walks to the gates.
- From Pisa: It’s a 20-minute train ride. You can do Lucca as a day trip from Pisa easily.
- From Florence: It takes about an hour and 20 minutes.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
Don't just walk the main street, Via Fillungo. It’s pretty, but it’s where all the tourists are.
Instead, head to the "Canal District" along Via del Fosso. It’s an ancient moat system that still has running water. It’s quiet, mossy, and feels like a different century.
If you want the real Lucca experience, buy a piece of Buccellato. It’s a sweet bread with raisins and anise. The locals say, "If you come to Lucca and don't eat Buccellato, you haven't really been here." Get it at Pasticceria Taddeucci in Piazza San Michele.
Also, check the calendar for Lucca Comics & Games in late October. It is the second-largest pop culture festival in the world. The city goes from 90,000 people to nearly 500,000. It’s vibrant and insane, but if you want "quiet Tuscany," stay far away during those dates.
Final tip: If you see a map of Lucca, look for the "Porta Elisa" gate. It’s the only straight, modern-looking entrance. Napoleon’s sister, Elisa Baciocchi, had it built because she wanted a grand entrance that her carriage could actually fit through. Even the French conquerors couldn't help but leave their mark on this stubborn little circle.
Pack comfortable shoes. Rent a bike. Get lost in the side streets where the laundry hangs over the cobblestones. Lucca is best discovered when you put the map away and just follow the sound of church bells.