If you’ve spent any time scouring maps of Salt Spring Island, your eyes have probably drifted toward the high ground. Most people stick to the coast. They want the salty air of Ganges or the sunset at Vesuvius. But there is a specific kind of magic found at Maxwell Lake by Ocean—a place where the freshwater stillness sits in direct defiance of the sprawling Pacific just a few hundred meters below.
It’s a bit of a climb. Honestly, the road up Mount Maxwell (Hwmet'utsum) isn't for the faint of heart or low-clearance sedans. You'll bounce. You'll probably worry about your tires. But once you reach that plateau where the lake sits, the world goes quiet in a way that feels almost unnatural. It’s one of those rare spots in British Columbia where you can stand by a mirror-still freshwater lake and, with a five-minute walk to the ridge, see the entire Southern Gulf Island archipelago laid out like a topographic map.
🔗 Read more: Sheraton Grand Wild Horse Pass: Why This Isn't Just Another Phoenix Resort
The Reality of the Maxwell Lake Watershed
Let’s clear something up right away: you can’t swim here.
I know, it’s a bummer. You see that clear, crisp water on a hot July afternoon and every instinct tells you to dive in. Don't. Maxwell Lake is the primary drinking water source for a huge chunk of Salt Spring Island, specifically managed by the North Salt Spring Waterworks District (NSSWD). Because of this, the regulations are tight. No swimming. No dogs in the water. No boating. It’s a "look but don't touch" scenario that keeps the water high-quality for the locals down in the valley.
This preservation creates a vibe that is totally different from the more "recreational" lakes like St. Mary or Cusheon. There’s no screaming kids on inner tubes. No smell of outboard motor fuel. Just the wind through the Douglas firs and the occasional call of a raven. It’s basically a giant, natural cathedral.
The lake itself sits at an elevation of roughly 340 meters. It’s perched. When you talk about Maxwell Lake by Ocean, you’re really talking about a vertical relationship. The lake is fed by a small, delicate catchment area. Because the island has faced significant drought issues over the last decade—something local experts like those at the Salt Spring Island Water Preservation Society have been yelling about for years—the water levels here are a constant topic of local anxiety.
Finding the Best Views of the Coast
Most hikers make the mistake of just looking at the water and turning around. Huge error.
To truly experience the "by ocean" part of the name, you have to hit the trails that skirt the southern and western ridges. The Baynes Peak trail is the heavy hitter here. You’re walking through old-growth Garry Oak meadows—which are, frankly, one of the most endangered ecosystems in Canada—and then suddenly, the trees vanish.
You’re standing on a cliff edge.
Below you is Burgoyne Bay. Beyond that, the Sansum Narrows. On a clear day, you can see the snow on the Olympic Mountains in Washington State. It is vertigo-inducing and spectacular. The contrast between the dark, enclosed forest around the lake and the infinite blue of the Salish Sea is what makes this spot worth the jarring drive up the mountain.
Navigation and Logistics (The Unfiltered Version)
Getting to Maxwell Lake by Ocean is a choice. You have two real options:
👉 See also: The North American Motor Inn City Ave: What You Actually Need to Know Before Booking
- The Easy Way (Sorta): Drive up Maxwell Road. It starts off paved and quickly turns into a gravel washboard nightmare. If it’s rained recently, expect potholes big enough to swallow a Chihuahua. There’s a small parking area near the lake gate, and from there, it’s an easy stroll.
- The Hard Way: Hike up from the bottom of the mountain via the Armand Way trail or the Jack Foster trail. This is a legitimate workout. Your calves will burn. You’ll gain hundreds of meters of elevation in a relatively short distance.
If you choose to drive, please, for the love of everything, watch your speed. The residents on the lower parts of Maxwell Road deal with clouds of dust all summer long. Being "that tourist" who flies up the hill at 60km/h is a great way to get some very unfriendly glares.
Why the "By Ocean" Proximity Matters
Ecologically, this place is weird. And I mean that in the best way possible. Because the lake is so close to the ocean but sits so high above it, it creates a unique microclimate. The mist from the Pacific often rolls over the ridge of Baynes Peak and gets trapped in the Maxwell Lake basin.
This results in a lushness you don't always find on the drier parts of the island. You’ll see massive sword ferns and thick moss carpets that look like something out of Jurassic Park. Local naturalists often point to this area as a refuge for species that can't handle the heat of the lower, more developed coastal strips. It’s a cooling station for the island’s biodiversity.
Common Misconceptions About the Area
You’ll often see travel blogs or old brochures suggesting you can fish here. While technically permitted under provincial regulations (provided you have a license), the local sentiment is heavily geared toward protection. Most locals won't fish here because they don't want to risk contaminating the basin. If you do go, catch and release is the unspoken rule, though honestly, most people find the fishing better at St. Mary Lake anyway.
Another myth? That you can camp. Absolutely not. The CRD (Capital Regional District) and BC Parks are very strict about this. There are no overnight stays allowed at the Maxwell Lake lookout or within the watershed. If you try to pitch a tent, you’ll likely be woken up by a ranger or a very annoyed local volunteer.
The Seasonal Shift
- Spring: This is the best time for the wildflowers. The Garry Oak meadows on the ridge are carpeted in Camas lilies and Sea Blush. It’s a purple and pink explosion.
- Summer: The lake is a refuge from the heat, even if you can't swim. The air is easily 5 degrees cooler up there than it is in Ganges.
- Fall: The maples turn. The mist starts coming back. It feels moody and very "Pacific Northwest."
- Winter: Sometimes it snows up there when it’s only raining at sea level. The road becomes treacherous. Unless you have 4WD and chains, stay down in the valley.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
If you're planning to head up to Maxwell Lake by Ocean, don't just wing it. People get stuck or lost more often than the local search and rescue would like.
First, check the fire rating. In the height of summer, the trails around the lake are often closed or restricted because the risk of a forest fire in the watershed is a nightmare scenario for the island. If the gate at the bottom of the mountain is closed, respect it.
Second, bring a physical map or download an offline version. Cell service at the lake is spotty at best. Once you dip into the gullies on the far side of the water, you’re basically in a dead zone. AllTrails is okay, but the "Salt Spring Island Trail Map" (the big yellow one you can buy at the local bookstore) is much more accurate for the labyrinth of deer paths that intersect the main trails.
Third, pack out everything. Even your "biodegradable" orange peels. Because this is a drinking water source, the tolerance for litter is zero.
Lastly, give yourself time. Don't rush to the viewpoint, take a selfie, and leave. Sit by the lake for twenty minutes. Watch the dragonflies. Feel the weird pressure change as the wind comes off the ocean and hits the mountain face. This isn't just a checkbox on a tourist list; it's the heart of the island’s ecosystem.
To truly respect the area, stick to the marked paths. The soil in the Garry Oak meadows is incredibly fragile; one footstep can crush plants that have been trying to grow for years. Stay on the rocks or the hard-packed dirt. By keeping your impact low, you ensure that the lake stays clean and the views stay wild for the next person who decides to brave the bumpy road up the mountain.
Check the North Salt Spring Waterworks District website before you leave to ensure there aren't any active maintenance closures or emergency drought restrictions affecting access to the perimeter trails. Once you're certain the area is open, grab a sturdy pair of boots, plenty of water (ironic, I know), and head up early in the morning to catch the light hitting the Salish Sea before the afternoon haze rolls in.