Curly hair is a genetic lottery win that feels like a curse for about six months of your life. That awkward phase between a short buzz and a proper mane is where most men give up. They see the frizz, they feel the bulk, and they head straight back to the barber for a fade. But men's medium length curly hair—the kind that sits somewhere between the jawline and the collar—is arguably the best look a guy can have if he actually knows how to manage the chaos. It’s got volume. It’s got personality. Honestly, it’s the only hair type that looks better the less you mess with it, provided you’ve laid the groundwork.
Stop fighting the gravity. Your hair isn't "messy"; it just lacks a blueprint.
The Science of the Spiral
Why does your hair do that? It’s basically down to the shape of your follicles. If your follicles are asymmetrical or oval-shaped, the hair shaft grows out at an angle, creating a curve. According to the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, curly hair usually falls into Type 3 (3A, 3B, or 3C), while wavy hair is Type 2. Most guys with medium length curls are rocking a 3A or 3B, which means the curls are about the width of a piece of sidewalk chalk or a Sharpie.
Because the hair is coiled, the natural oils (sebum) produced by your scalp have a nightmare of a time traveling down the hair shaft. On straight hair, it’s a waterslide. On curls, it’s a spiral staircase with no handrail. This is why curly hair gets dry so fast. If you’re washing your hair every single morning with a drugstore shampoo full of sulfates (like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), you are essentially sandblasting your curls. You’re stripping away the only thing keeping them from looking like a tumbleweed.
The "Squish to Condish" Method
You've probably never heard of this unless you’ve spent too much time on hair forums, but it’s a game-changer for medium curls. Instead of rinsing all your conditioner out, you leave a little bit in and "squish" the hair upward toward the scalp while it’s soaking wet. This forces moisture into the hair cuticle. It sounds weird. It feels weird. But it works because it encourages the curls to clump together rather than fraying out into a halo of frizz.
Cutting Men's Medium Length Curly Hair Without Regretting It
The biggest mistake guys make is asking for a "regular haircut" but longer. Curls don't work like that. If you cut curly hair in a straight line while it’s wet, it’s going to bounce up into a different shape once it dries. This is the "triangle head" effect. You look like a Dilbert character.
You need a stylist who understands internal layering. This isn't about shortening the length; it's about thinning out the "bulk" from the inside so the curls have room to sit into one another. Mention the "DevaCut" technique or "dry cutting." A stylist who cuts curly hair while it’s dry can see exactly how each spiral is going to react. It’s more precise. It’s also usually more expensive, but considering you only need a trim every 8 to 12 weeks for medium length, the ROI is actually pretty solid.
Don't let them use a razor. Razors are for thinning out straight, thick hair. On curls, a razor shreds the ends and creates instant frizz. You want sharp, professional shears. Nothing else.
The Routine That Actually Works
- Cleanse (Twice a week, max): Use a "co-wash" or a sulfate-free shampoo. If you're sweating at the gym, just rinse with water and use a tiny bit of conditioner.
- Hydrate: Apply a leave-in conditioner while your hair is still dripping wet. Like, "don't even reach for the towel yet" wet.
- Define: Use a curl cream or a light-hold gel. Avoid anything with high alcohol content—it’ll dry you out and make your hair crunchy. Nobody wants "crunchy" hair.
- Dry: This is where guys fail. Do not rub your head with a terry cloth towel. You’re literally breaking the curl patterns. Use an old cotton T-shirt to pat it dry, or better yet, use a diffuser on your blow dryer. A diffuser spreads the airflow so it doesn't blow the curls apart.
Set the dryer to low heat. High heat is the enemy. It's better to let it air dry 80% of the way and then hit it with a diffuser for the last 20% to get that volume at the roots.
Common Misconceptions About Medium Curls
People think you need a dozen products. You don't. You need two or three high-quality ones. Brands like SheaMoisture, Ouidad, or even Brickell make specific lines for men that don't smell like a floral shop if that's something you're worried about.
Another myth: "I need to brush my hair to keep it neat." Never brush curly hair when it’s dry. Unless you want to look like a 1970s disco star, keep the brush away. Use a wide-tooth comb in the shower while you have conditioner in, then leave it alone. Your fingers are your best styling tools. Use them to rake product through and "scrunch" the curls into shape.
Why Length Matters
The "medium" part is the sweet spot. When your hair is short, the weight isn't there to pull the curl down, so it just sticks out. When it's too long, the weight stretches the curl out until it looks limp. At 4 to 6 inches, you have enough weight for a defined shape but enough lightness for volume. This is where you get that "Timothée Chalamet" or "Dev Patel" vibe. It looks effortless, even though we both know it took a little bit of work.
Real Talk on Frizz
Frizz is just a curl reaching out for moisture. If it’s humid outside, your hair is trying to grab water from the air. If you provide that moisture yourself via oils or creams, the hair stays sealed. Look for ingredients like Argan oil, Jojoba oil, or Shea butter. These act as a sealant. Think of it like a protective wax on a car.
Actionable Steps for Today
If you’re currently rocking a mop and don’t know what to do, start here. First, stop using your 3-in-1 body wash/shampoo/conditioner immediately. It’s literal poison for curls. Go buy a dedicated conditioner and a wide-tooth comb.
🔗 Read more: Get the ball rolling meaning: Why starting is the hardest part (and how to actually do it)
Next time you shower, don't rinse all the conditioner out. Leave just enough so the hair feels "slimy" like seaweed. Pat it dry with a T-shirt—do not rub. Let it air dry without touching it. Touching your hair while it's drying is the fastest way to create frizz. Once it’s 100% dry, if it feels a little stiff from the product, just "scrunch" it with your hands to break the seal. You’ll have soft, defined curls that actually stay put.
Find a barber who specializes in textures. Ask for a "tapered" look around the ears and neck to keep the medium length on top from looking like a mushroom. This keeps the silhouette masculine and clean while letting the curls do the heavy lifting on top. Stick to the routine for two weeks. Your hair needs time to adjust to not being stripped of its oils. It might feel "greasy" for a few days, but that's just your scalp recalibrating. Stick with it.