If you’re walking through the river red gum forests near the Murray River at twilight, you might just see a shadow ripple across a branch. That’s the Murray Darling carpet python (Morelia spilota metcalfei). These snakes are basically the "chill cousins" of the carpet python family. Honestly, while everyone else is obsessing over bright green tree pythons or high-contrast jungle carpets, the "MD" (as keepers call them) has quietly become the gold standard for people who actually want a snake that doesn’t try to eat their face every time the enclosure opens.
They aren't flashy in a neon sense. Instead, they sport this gorgeous, earthy palette of silver, slate grey, and charcoal. Some even have these subtle maroon or chocolate patches that look like a Victorian-era rug. You’ve probably heard people call them "Inland Carpet Pythons" too. Same snake, different name.
Why the Murray Darling Carpet Python is different
Most people get carpet pythons confused. They think every Morelia spilota is a snappy, 10-foot monster. That’s just not true with the MD. While a coastal carpet might reach 3 meters and have a bit of a "tude," the Murray Darling usually settles around 2.1 to 2.4 meters. Still a big snake, sure, but way more manageable.
They live in the Murray-Darling Basin, stretching through New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia. This is a tough environment. It gets scorching hot and surprisingly cold. Because of this, these pythons are incredibly hardy. If you're a first-time keeper, this is a huge win. They are much more forgiving of small temperature fluctuations than a tropical species would be.
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Temperament: The "Puppet" of the Python World?
Okay, maybe calling a snake a "puppy" is a stretch. But in the reptile world, these guys are known for being exceptionally placid.
Hatchlings can be a bit "nippy"—basically they’re small and think the whole world wants to eat them—but they grow out of it fast. Once they hit about 18 months, they usually turn into total rocks. You can pick them up, and they’ll just slowly cruise over your shoulders. They don't have that frantic, nervous energy that some other pythons carry.
Setting up a home that actually works
Don't listen to the old-school advice that says you can keep an adult MD in a tiny tub. These are semi-arboreal animals. In the wild, they love hanging out in tree hollows or rocky outcrops. If you give them a flat, boring box, they’ll survive, but they won't thrive.
The Enclosure Basics
For an adult, you’re looking at a 4-foot to 5-foot enclosure (about 120-150cm). Height is important. Toss in some sturdy branches—make sure they’re screwed in or wedged tight—because a 3kg snake will knock over a flimsy plastic plant in seconds.
Thermal Gradients
You need a hot end and a cool end. Simple as that.
- Hot spot: Aim for 32–34°C.
- Cool end: Down to about 20–24°C.
One cool thing about Murray Darling carpet pythons? They can handle a night-time drop. In the wild, temperatures in the Murray-Darling Basin can plummet. You don't need to keep the cage at 30°C all night. Letting it drop to 18-20°C at night is actually more natural for them, though hatchlings should stay a bit warmer until they’re established.
Substrate and Humidity
Keep it dry. These aren't rainforest snakes. If you keep them on soggy moss, they’ll end up with scale rot. Use aspen shavings, cypress mulch, or even plain old butcher's paper if you're a minimalist. Humidity usually sits fine at 40-50%, but when they’re about to shed (you’ll see their eyes go cloudy/blue), give the enclosure a light misting to help the skin come off in one piece.
The "Endangered" Reality Nobody Talks About
While these snakes are common in the pet trade, the wild population is actually struggling. In Victoria, they’re listed as threatened. It’s kinda sad—habitat loss and foxes have done a number on them.
Farmers actually used to love having them around. Why? Because a single adult Murray Darling carpet python is a biological vacuum for rats and mice. They’d hang out in the rafters of old sheds, keeping the vermin population at zero.
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If you’re in Australia, you absolutely need a license to keep one. Each state has different rules (NPWS in NSW, DELWP in Victoria, etc.), so check your local regs. Never, ever take one from the wild. Not only is it illegal, but wild-caught snakes are usually riddled with parasites and will be stressed to the point of death in a cage.
Feeding: The easy part
Feeding an MD is basically "set it and forget it."
- Hatchlings: A fuzzy mouse or small hopper every 7 days.
- Juveniles: A medium rat every 10 days.
- Adults: One large rat every 2–3 weeks.
They are notorious "garbage guts." They almost never refuse a meal. In fact, the biggest health issue with Murray Darlings in captivity isn't them not eating—it’s them becoming obese. A fat snake looks like a giant sausage with no muscle tone. If yours starts looking "squishy," scale back the feeding.
Common Myths vs. Reality
I’ve heard some wild stuff about these snakes over the years. Let’s clear a few things up:
- "They’re slimy." Nope. They feel like dry, soft leather or silk. If your snake is slimy, it’s literally covered in something it shouldn't be.
- "They dislocate their jaws." Actually, their jaws aren't "dislocated"; they’re just held together by incredibly stretchy ligaments. It’s more like a superpower than an injury.
- "They travel in pairs." This is a huge myth. Snakes are solitary. If you see two together, they’re either mating or fighting. Do not house two together in one cage; it’s a recipe for stress and potential "cannibalism" (rare, but it happens).
Actionable Steps for Future Keepers
If you’re thinking about getting a Murray Darling carpet python, here is the roadmap:
- Get your license first. Don't wait until you have the snake in a box. Apply for your state's wildlife permit now.
- Buy from a breeder, not a pet shop. You’ll get better data on when it last ate, what it's eating, and the temperament of the parents.
- Set up the tank 48 hours early. Run your heaters and thermostats to make sure the temps are stable before the snake arrives.
- The "Two Week" Rule. When you bring your MD home, don't touch it for two weeks. Let it settle, let it eat once, and then start handling it for 10-15 minutes a day.
These snakes can live for 20 to 30 years. It’s a long-term commitment, but honestly, there aren't many reptiles that are as rewarding or as "low-drama" as the Murray Darling.
To ensure your snake has the best start, start researching local reptile vets in your area now so you're prepared for annual check-ups. Look for specialists who understand the specific respiratory needs of Australian pythons.