You've seen them. Those chunky, slightly aggressive, mostly grey slabs of foam and suede that seemingly every person under thirty is wearing right now. It’s a funny thing because ten years ago, if you wore these, people assumed you were about to mow a lawn or complain about the price of milk at a suburban grocery store. Now? They are the height of cool. Honestly, the shift from "dorky orthopedic gear" to "high-fashion staple" is one of the weirdest pivots in style history.
We’re talking about new balance dad shoes.
But there is a lot of noise out there. People use the term "dad shoe" to describe anything with a thick sole, but that’s not quite right. Real enthusiasts know it’s about a specific lineage of design that prioritizes function to a degree that becomes an aesthetic of its own. It's the "I don't care about your trends" trend.
Why Everyone Is Obsessed With "Old Man" Sneakers
The irony isn't lost on the brand. Back in the day, New Balance basically leaned into the "Endorsed by No One" campaign. They weren't chasing NBA superstars or rappers; they were making shoes for Steve Jobs and your Uncle Gary who has bad arches.
Fast forward to 2026, and the landscape has shifted, but the shoes haven't changed that much. That’s the secret. While other brands were making neon-colored knit socks with soles that look like alien spacecraft, New Balance just kept making the 990. They stayed consistent.
It turns out, people eventually get tired of flashy junk. They want something that actually feels good after eight hours of standing. Plus, the "ugly-cool" vibe—often called normcore—hit a fever pitch. Suddenly, the chunky new balance dad shoes were the perfect foil to oversized suits and baggy trousers.
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The 990 Series: The King of the Cul-de-Sac
If there is a holy grail in this world, it’s the 990. When it first dropped in 1982, it was the first running shoe to hit a $100 price tag. That was insane at the time. It was a status symbol for people who took their morning miles—or their bank accounts—very seriously.
- 990v3: This is arguably the most popular lifestyle pick. It has that perfect "busy" upper with lots of mesh and suede overlays.
- 990v6: The newest kid on the block. It’s a bit more "techy" looking and uses FuelCell foam, which makes it feel bouncy rather than just firm.
- 993: The ultimate "wide" shoe. If you have feet like a duck, this is your best friend. It’s bulky, heavy, and incredibly stable.
The Models You’re Seeing Everywhere (And Why)
It’s not just the 990 anymore. The brand has dug into its archives to pull out models that were originally performance runners in the early 2000s.
Take the New Balance 530. It’s everywhere on TikTok. Why? Because it’s cheap (usually around $100) and it’s basically just mesh and silver synthetic leather. It looks like a shoe you’d find in a dusty bin at a thrift store, which is exactly why people love it. It’s incredibly breathable, though honestly, it feels a bit "thin" compared to the premium Made in USA models.
Then you have the 2002R. This one is a bit of a cheat code. It looks like a classic dad shoe but it’s actually built on the sole of a performance shoe (the 860v2). It’s the sweet spot between "I'm a sneakerhead" and "I have a mortgage." The "Protection Pack" versions—the ones with the jagged, frayed edges—turned this model into a genuine hype beast icon.
And we can't ignore the 9060. This is the dad shoe on steroids. It’s got a midsole that looks like it’s split into different pods. It’s polarizing. Some people think it looks like a brick; others think it’s the most comfortable thing they’ve ever put on their feet. It definitely leans more toward the "retro-futurism" trend we're seeing dominate 2026.
Comfort Isn't Just Marketing Speak
Look, a lot of "fashion" sneakers are torture devices. You wear them for two hours and your pinky toe is screaming. New Balance is different because they actually care about podiatry.
They use stuff like ENCAP (a core of soft EVA foam with a tough polyurethane rim) and ABZORB (a proprietary blend of foam that doesn't compress as fast as standard materials). It sounds like marketing fluff, but if you spend a day walking around a city like New York or London, the difference is massive. Your knees will literally thank you.
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Many of these models also come in multiple widths. That is a game changer. Most brands just make one width and tell you to "size up" if you have wide feet, which just leads to you wearing shoes that are too long. New Balance actually makes 2E and 4E widths in many of their core dad shoes.
How to Style Them Without Looking Like You’re Going to a PTA Meeting
This is the tricky part. You don't want to actually look like a 1995 suburban dad (unless that's your specific vibe).
- The Proportion Rule: Because these shoes are "heavy" looking, they look weird with skinny jeans. It makes your feet look like watermelons. Stick to straight-leg chinos, baggy denim, or even 7-inch inseam mesh shorts.
- The Sock Choice: White crew socks are the standard. Don't do no-show socks with these; it looks unbalanced. A thick, ribbed white sock completes the "intentional" look.
- Contrast is Key: Pair them with something slightly elevated. A wool overcoat with 990s is a classic "model off duty" look. It tells the world, "I'm stylish, but I also might need to break into a light jog at any moment."
The Counter-Argument: Are They Overhyped?
Some people hate them. They think they’re overpriced for what is essentially grey suede. And yeah, paying $220 for a 990v6 is a lot of money. You are paying for the "Made in USA" or "Made in UK" craftsmanship, which generally means better quality control and better materials than the stuff mass-produced in other regions.
Also, they can be heavy. If you're used to those paper-thin minimalist runners, a new balance dad shoe is going to feel like a moon boot. It takes a second to get used to that "clunky" weight.
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Practical Steps for Your First Pair
Don't just buy the first pair you see on an Instagram ad.
First, figure out your foot shape. If you have flat feet, look at the 990v5 or 993 for stability. If you want something that feels more like a modern sneaker, go for the 1906R or the 2002R.
Check the materials too. The grey suede is iconic, but it’s a nightmare in the rain. If you live in a wet climate, look for the "GORE-TEX" versions of the 2002R. They look almost identical but won't get ruined the second you step in a puddle.
If you’re on a budget, the 530 or the 574 are your best bets. They give you the aesthetic without the $200 price tag. Just know that the 574 is a bit more of a "classic" look and less of that "chunky tech" vibe that defines the true dad shoe trend of 2026.
Go to a physical store and actually try them on. Sizing in the 900 series can be weird—some people find the 992 runs large, while the 990v6 is a bit narrower. There's nothing worse than dropping two bills on sneakers that pinch your toes.
Once you get them, don't baby them. The whole point of a dad shoe is that it looks better with a little bit of wear. A pristine, sparkling white 530 looks a bit "try-hard." Let them get a little scuffed. It adds to the "I've had these forever because they're the only shoes I trust" energy.