If you’ve lived in Vancouver, Washington, for more than a minute, you probably have a memory of Beaches. That iconic waterfront spot was the heartbeat of the Columbia River dining scene for nearly three decades. So, when the news broke that Oswego Grill at Columbia Shores would be taking over that hallowed ground at 1919 SE Columbia River Drive, people had feelings. Big ones.
There was skepticism. There was nostalgia. Some folks basically thought a "chain" was moving in to kill a local legend. But honestly? That’s not what happened. Oswego Grill isn't some massive corporate entity; it’s a family-owned operation from the Crossroads Restaurant Group. They didn't just paint the walls and call it a day. They completely gutted the place to install a massive custom hardwood grill that burns a specific blend of mesquite and applewood.
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The Mesquite Mystery and Why the Grill Actually Matters
Most "grill" restaurants use gas. Gas is easy. It’s consistent. It’s also kinda boring. Oswego Grill at Columbia Shores is built around the literal fire. When you walk in, you’ll smell it—that faint, sweet scent of applewood mixed with the aggressive punch of mesquite. This isn't just for show.
The heat from a wood fire is intense. It sears the meat in a way that locks in moisture while adding a layer of flavor you just can’t get from a Vulcan range. They age their steaks for 28 days. That’s roughly four weeks of enzymatic breakdown that makes a Rib Eye tender enough to cut with a dull look.
What to Actually Order (and What to Skip)
If you're going for the first time, don't get the burger. I mean, the Hawaiian BBQ Wagyu Burger is great—it has maple-glazed bacon and grilled pineapple—but you’re at a wood-grill steakhouse. Get the steak.
Specifically, the Bone-In Rib Eye is the move. Because it’s cooked over open flames, the fat renders differently. It gets crispy on the edges. The Danish Baby Back Ribs are another sleeper hit; they’re imported and finished on the hardwood grill with a house-made BBQ sauce that isn't cloyingly sweet.
- Dungeness Crab Cakes: These come with a mango salsa and red pepper romesco. They’re heavy on the crab, light on the filler.
- Stuffed Salmon: A Northwest classic. It’s wild-caught, stuffed with crab, and grilled until the skin is just right.
- Ahi Poke Nachos: A great shareable if you’re sitting in the bar. Wonton chips, fresh tuna, and a sriracha aioli that has just enough kick.
The Happy Hour Hustle
Let’s talk about the bar. The "upscale elegance at a casual price" mantra is basically the company’s North Star. Their Happy Hour runs twice daily. It’s 3 pm to 6 pm and then again from 9 pm until they close.
You have to be in the bar to get the deals, and it gets crowded. Fast. People in Vancouver know a $6 California Roll or $5 Fish Tacos when they see them. If you’re a cocktail person, the Peach Sangria or the Very Berry Lemonade (made with Stoli Razberi) are the crowd favorites, though they can be a bit on the sweet side.
One thing that surprises people is the sushi. You wouldn't expect a wood-fired steakhouse to do decent sushi, but they have a dedicated station. The Vegas Roll—which is tempura-battered and fried—is essentially a salt-fat-carb bomb in the best way possible.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Vibe
There’s this misconception that because it replaced Beaches, it’s going to be the same "flip-flops and Hawaiian shirts" vibe. It’s not.
Crossroads Restaurant Group did a massive refresh on the interior. It’s darker, sleeker, and more "date night" than "post-beach hangout." Think leather booths, warm lighting, and a lot of stone accents. It feels expensive, even though the prices are pretty comparable to other mid-range spots in the area.
The Service Reality Check
Is it perfect? No. Some regulars have noted that because the space is so popular, the service can feel a bit rushed on Friday nights. The restaurant is often loud. If you’re looking for a quiet, whispered conversation, you might want to ask for a booth in the back or go during the "shoulder hours" between 2 pm and 4 pm.
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Ben and Tyson are two of the names that pop up constantly in reviews for being rockstars on the floor. If you get them, you’re in good hands.
Hard Truths and Actionable Tips
If you're planning a visit, don't just wing it. This location is one of the busiest in their portfolio.
- Reservations are a must. For parties of 5 or more, you have to call them directly at (360) 360-7700. Don't rely on third-party apps for large groups.
- The "Reverse Sear" trick. If you’re a steak nerd, you know that thick cuts like the Filet Mignon benefit from being started in a cooler zone and finished over the hot coals. Ask your server how the kitchen is managing the coal bed that day—they actually know their stuff.
- The Donut Secret. Do not leave without the Hot Scratch-Made Donuts. They come with warm caramel. They are tiny, dangerous, and probably the best thing on the dessert menu.
- Parking Strategy. The Columbia Shores area can be a nightmare during peak summer months. Arrive 15 minutes early just to find a spot in the shared lot.
Oswego Grill at Columbia Shores managed to do the impossible: it replaced a local icon without feeling like a soulless replacement. It’s a different beast entirely. It’s focused on the chemistry of wood fire and the ritual of the Pacific Northwest dinner.
Next time you're heading toward the river, skip the usual spots and see if you can snag a seat near the grill. Watching the chefs manage the mesquite flames is half the experience. Just make sure to check the seasonal menu first; they rotate items based on what's fresh in the PNW, so that halibut you loved in June might be replaced by something even better by October.
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To get the most out of your visit, aim for a 4:00 PM arrival on a weekday. You’ll beat the dinner rush, secure a spot in the bar for the tail end of Happy Hour, and get the best service before the kitchen gets slammed.