You've probably seen it sitting on a salon station or tucked into a "best of" list. The Paul Mitchell Express Ion Smooth is one of those tools that feels like it has been around forever. Honestly, in a world of $500 smart irons that basically try to cook your breakfast while they straighten your hair, this classic ceramic iron is often misunderstood. Some people think it's just a "basic" iron. They’re wrong.
It’s a workhorse. It doesn’t have a touchscreen or a Bluetooth connection, but it has a cult following for a reason. If you’re tired of flat irons that snag your hair or leave it feeling like straw, you need to understand what this specific tool is actually doing to your strands.
The Science of the "Complex"
Let's talk about the Express Ion Complex. It sounds like marketing fluff, right? Basically, it’s a blend of volcanic minerals fused into the ceramic plates.
Most cheap irons just blast your hair with raw, dry heat. This one uses far-infrared heat. Instead of scorching the outside of the hair shaft, far-infrared penetrates the hair to heat it from the inside out. It's gentler. You’ve probably noticed that "fried" smell with some irons—that's usually the cuticle taking a beating. Because this tool focuses on negative ions and internal heating, it helps lock in moisture rather than blowing it all out.
Why 1.25 Inches is the Sweet Spot
Most people default to a 1-inch iron.
The Paul Mitchell Express Ion Smooth clocks in at 1.25 inches.
That extra quarter-inch might not seem like a big deal, but it changes everything.
It allows you to take slightly larger sections without losing control. If you have thick or coarse hair, a 1-inch iron can feel like trying to mow a lawn with scissors. This width provides enough surface area to get through a head of hair quickly, but the plates are still slim enough to get right up to the root.
It’s Not Just for Straightening
One of the biggest misconceptions is that the "Smooth" in the name means it's a one-trick pony.
Look at the edges of the plates. They’re beveled.
This means you can twist the iron and glide it through to create curls or "beachy" waves without those annoying crimp marks.
I've seen people struggle to curl with this because they grip too hard. The plates are cushioned. You don’t need to squeeze it like you're trying to crush a soda can. A light grip allows the hair to pass through the Express Ion Complex plates smoothly, letting the heat do the work. If you're getting kinks, you're likely stopping the movement. Keep the iron moving.
Real Talk on Temperature
The digital display goes up to 410°F.
Do you need it that hot? Probably not.
Unless you have extremely coarse, "stubborn" hair, 410°F is overkill.
- Fine hair: Stick to 250°F – 290°F.
- Medium/Normal hair: 330°F – 370°F is usually the "goldilocks" zone.
- Coarse or thick hair: 370°F – 410°F.
The iron heats up in about 60 seconds. It also has a 5-second heat recovery time. This is a big deal. When you run an iron through a cold section of hair, the plates lose heat. Cheap irons take forever to "recharge." This one maintains its temp so your last section looks just as polished as your first.
What Nobody Tells You About Longevity
People love to complain when a tool dies after a year. Usually, it's not the tool—it's the maintenance.
Styling products build up on ceramic plates.
If you see a brown, sticky film on your Paul Mitchell Express Ion Smooth, that’s burnt hairspray. It creates drag, which leads to breakage.
Wait for the iron to be completely cool. Take a soft, slightly damp cloth and wipe the plates down once a week. Don’t use harsh chemicals. The CeraShine finish on these plates is durable, but it isn't invincible.
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Pro Tip: Always use a heat protectant like Paul Mitchell's Hot Off The Press. It’s designed to work with this specific ionic technology to create a barrier that doesn't "glue" the plates to your hair.
Common Frustrations (And the Fixes)
I’ve heard some users say the iron "doesn't close all the way."
This is actually by design.
The plates are spring-loaded (cushioned). They aren't meant to meet perfectly flat when the iron is empty. They compress when hair is between them. This prevents "hot spots" and ensures even pressure so you don't accidentally snag a single strand and rip it out.
Another thing? The auto shut-off.
It turns off after one hour.
For most, this is a lifesaver. If you're a professional stylist doing back-to-back blowouts for three hours, you might find yourself needing to click it back on. Just something to keep in mind.
Is It Right For You?
If you want an iron that lasts for years and handles daily smoothing without destroying your ends, this is a solid investment. It’s particularly great if you travel, as it’s dual voltage. You just need a plug adapter for the country you're in—no heavy converter required.
However, if you have very short, "pixie" length hair, the 1.25-inch plates might feel a bit bulky. You might be better off with the 1-inch "Style" version. But for everyone else—from bobs to waist-length manes—the Smooth+ is the standard for a reason.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check your current temp: Most people style too hot. Next time you use your iron, drop the temperature by 20 degrees and see if you get the same result. You'll likely find you don't need the max setting.
- Clean your plates: If you haven't wiped down your flat iron in a month, do it tonight. It will glide better tomorrow morning.
- Section smaller: Even with a high-quality iron like this, "one-pass" straightening only works if the section is thin enough for the heat to reach every strand.
Stop treating your flat iron like a pancake press. Use the beveled edges to your advantage, keep the plates clean, and let the negative ions do the heavy lifting for your shine.