You probably know it better as Kennedy Island. Or maybe Kasolo. But for decades, the tiny, teardrop-shaped speck of coral and palms known as Plum Pudding Island has sat in the Blackett Strait, carrying a weight of history that feels almost too big for its physical size. It is barely a hundred meters across. You can walk the perimeter in about five minutes if you’re taking your time. Yet, this little patch of land in the Solomon Islands is where a future U.S. President faced his most harrowing brush with death.
It’s a wild story.
In August 1943, Lieutenant John F. Kennedy was commanding the PT-109, a motor torpedo boat tasked with intercepting Japanese supply barges. It was pitch black. No moon. The Japanese destroyer Amagiri sliced through the night at 40 knots and literally cut Kennedy’s boat in half. Two crewmen died instantly. The survivors were left clinging to the wreckage in shark-infested waters, miles from help, surrounded by Japanese-held islands.
Kennedy didn’t just give up. He swam for hours, towing an injured crewman by a life jacket strap held in his teeth. They landed on Plum Pudding Island because it was small and uninhabited, meaning there was a lower chance of bumping into a Japanese patrol.
Why Plum Pudding Island Still Matters Today
Most people think of the JFK story as a sanitized piece of American political lore. It isn't. When you actually visit the Western Province of the Solomon Islands, you realize how incredibly hostile this environment was for a group of stranded, starving sailors. Plum Pudding Island had no fresh water. It had no food.
The name "Plum Pudding" itself is a bit of a colonial relic, likely named for its rounded, clump-like appearance from a distance. Today, locals almost exclusively call it Kennedy Island, and it’s become a pilgrimage site for history buffs and divers. But honestly, if you strip away the presidential fame, the island remains a symbol of the sheer unpredictability of the Pacific Theater during World War II.
The Solomon Islands were the turning point. Guadalcanal gets all the glory in the history books, but the skirmishes around Gizo and the New Georgia Group—where Plum Pudding is located—were where the "Tokyo Express" supply lines were finally choked off.
The Survival Reality
Kennedy and his men spent days on the island. They were dehydrated. They were terrified. Kennedy eventually swam out into the Ferguson Passage, hoping to flag down a passing American patrol boat. He found nothing.
Later, the group moved to Olasana Island and then Naru Island in search of food and water. It was there that Kennedy met two Solomon Islander scouts, Biuku Gasa and Eroni Kumana. These men were working for the Allied coastwatchers. Kennedy famously carved a message into a coconut husk: NAURO ISL… COMMANDER… NATIVE KNOWS POSIT… HE CAN PILOT… 11 ALIVE… NEED SMALL BOAT… KENNEDY.
Gasa and Kumana paddled a dugout canoe through Japanese-patrolled waters to deliver that coconut to the Australian coastwatcher Reginald Evans. That’s how they were saved. Without those two locals, Kennedy likely would have died on a nameless beach, and American history would look very different.
Getting to the Solomons: It’s Not for Everyone
Let’s be real. The Solomon Islands are not Fiji. They aren't the Maldives.
If you want overwater bungalows and infinity pools, you’re in the wrong place. To reach Plum Pudding Island, you have to fly into Honiara, then take a small Twin Otter plane to Gizo. The landing strip at Nusatupe is literally a carved-out section of a coral reef. From there, you hop on a boat.
It’s raw. It’s humid. The sun will absolutely cook you if you aren't careful.
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But that’s the draw. When you stand on the white sand of Kennedy Island, you aren't surrounded by thousands of tourists. You might be the only person there. You can look out over the same turquoise water Kennedy watched, scanning the horizon for a ship that might never come.
Diving the Wrecks
The area around Plum Pudding Island is a graveyard of steel. The Solomon Islands are often called "Iron Bottom Sound" for a reason, though that specific name usually refers to the waters near Guadalcanal. Still, the Western Province is littered with plane wrecks and sunken ships.
- The Tao Maru: A Japanese merchant ship resting on its side.
- Hellcats and Corsairs: American fighter planes swallowed by the jungle and the sea.
- The PT-109 Wreckage: For years, people searched for Kennedy's boat. In 2002, Robert Ballard (the guy who found the Titanic) located what is believed to be the remains of the PT-109 in about 1,200 feet of water nearby.
The biodiversity here is staggering. Because the islands are so remote, the coral reefs are some of the most pristine on the planet. You’ll see reef sharks, manta rays, and hawksbill turtles. It’s a strange juxtaposition—the remnants of a violent war slowly being reclaimed by vibrant, peaceful nature.
The Local Perspective and the "Kennedy Myth"
There is a bit of a disconnect between how Americans see the island and how the locals see it. To a local in Gizo, the island is a piece of land that brings in some tourism dollars. There’s a small entrance fee (usually around 50 to 100 Solomon dollars) that goes toward the upkeep of the island, which now has a small bar and some basic facilities for day-trippers.
The role of Biuku Gasa and Eroni Kumana is a point of local pride. For a long time, their contribution was overshadowed by Kennedy’s heroism. In recent years, there has been a push to ensure they get the credit they deserve. They weren't just "natives" who happened to pass by; they were trained scouts operating in a high-stakes intelligence network.
When Eroni Kumana passed away in 2014, he was still remembered as the man who saved a president. He even received a tribute from the Kennedy family. It’s a reminder that history isn't just made by the people in the headlines, but by the people on the ground who know the tides and the hidden channels.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Island
People often expect a museum. They expect plaques and paved paths.
Nope.
Plum Pudding Island is mostly just bush. There is a small memorial stone, but other than that, it’s remarkably untouched. People also assume the island is far away from everything. It’s actually quite close to Gizo town. You can see the lights of the town at night (though they wouldn't have been there in 1943).
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Another misconception is that the island is "disappearing" due to rising sea levels. While the Solomon Islands are certainly on the front lines of climate change, and some smaller low-lying islands have been lost to erosion, Plum Pudding is still holding firm for now. However, the reef systems surrounding it are sensitive to temperature changes, which is a major concern for the local economy that relies on fishing and diving.
Planning Your Visit: A Practical Guide
If you are serious about visiting, you need to be prepared for "Island Time." Schedules are suggestions. Boats leave when they are full or when the operator feels like it.
- Visa Requirements: Most Western travelers get a visitor permit on arrival, but check the latest 2026 regulations before you fly.
- Currency: Carry Solomon Island Dollars (SBD). Credit cards are basically useless once you leave the main hotels in Honiara or Gizo.
- Health: Malaria is still a thing here. Take your pills. Wear DEET.
- Respect: If you visit, don't take "souvenirs" like old shell casings or pieces of coral. It’s illegal and disrespectful to the locals and the history of the site.
The best time to go is during the dry season, from May to October. Outside of that, you’re looking at monsoon rains that can turn a boat trip into a very soggy ordeal.
Beyond the Kennedy Story
While you're in the neighborhood, don't just see the island and leave. The Western Province is a labyrinth of lagoons.
The Marovo Lagoon is a world-class destination for woodcarvings. The artists here use kerosene wood and ebony, often inlaying pieces with intricate shell work. It’s some of the finest craftsmanship in the Pacific.
There's also the birdlife. If you're into twitching, the Solomons have dozens of endemic species you won't find anywhere else. The Solomon Sea Eagle is a massive, prehistoric-looking bird that patrols the coastlines.
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Actionable Steps for the Modern Traveler
- Book a local guide: Don't just rent a boat and go solo. A local guide can explain the traditional boundaries of the islands and tell you stories about the war that aren't in the history books.
- Support the Kumana family: If you visit Gizo, ask about the legacy of the scouts. There are often local initiatives or small displays that honor their specific role in the PT-109 rescue.
- Pack light but smart: You need a high-quality dry bag. Everything you own will get wet on the boat ride out to Plum Pudding Island.
- Check dive certifications: If you plan on diving the deeper wrecks, make sure your certs are up to date. The currents in the Ferguson Passage can be tricky, and this isn't the place for a "discovery dive" if you aren't comfortable in the water.
Plum Pudding Island remains one of the few places where you can literally walk in the footsteps of a historical giant in a setting that hasn't changed since the 1940s. It’s hot, it’s quiet, and it’s profoundly beautiful. Whether you’re there for the JFK history or just the solitude of the Pacific, it’s a spot that stays with you long after you’ve washed the salt off your skin.
To make the most of your trip, start by coordinating with a lodge in Gizo like Fatboys or Sanbis Resort. They handle the logistics for island hopping and can arrange for a traditional "Motu" (underground oven) lunch on one of the nearby beaches, giving you a taste of the local culture alongside the history.