The 1970s weren't just about polyester. Honestly, if you look at actual archival photos from the era, the "Me Decade" was a chaotic, beautiful mess of textures that most modern fast-fashion brands completely ignore when they try to recreate plus size 70s attire. You’ve probably seen the cheap, itchy bell-bottoms sold at Halloween shops. They’re terrible. They don’t drape right, and they certainly don't respect the actual silhouette of a curvy body.
Real 70s style was actually surprisingly inclusive for its time, even if the marketing didn't always show it. While the 60s were all about that boxy, "Mod" shift dress that hid the waist, the 70s swung the pendulum toward the body. High waists. Wrap tops. Wide legs. It was a decade that leaned into the hourglass, whether you were a size 2 or a size 22.
The Fabric Fallacy and the Rise of the Wrap
One of the biggest misconceptions about plus size 70s attire is that everything was stiff, double-knit polyester. Sure, that stuff existed, and it was indestructible, but the real magic happened with the introduction of jersey.
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In 1974, Diane von Furstenberg basically changed the game for everyone. Her wrap dress wasn't just a "skinny girl" staple. It became a lifeline for plus-size women because the adjustable waist and V-neckline provided a custom fit that moved with the body rather than fighting against it. If you’re looking for authentic 70s vibes today, you have to look for that specific weight of fabric. Rayon blends or high-quality bamboo jersey mimics that vintage drape way better than the shiny, static-filled polyester you find on Amazon.
Texture mattered. A lot.
Think about corduroy. A high-waisted, wide-leg corduroy pant is arguably the most "70s" thing you can own. For a plus-size fit, the key back then—and now—is the "rise." 70s pants didn't just sit on the hips; they sat at the narrowest part of the torso. This created a long, continuous line from the ribs to the floor. When you add a platform shoe into the mix, you’re looking at a visual lengthening effect that is honestly unmatched by any other decade's fashion.
What Nobody Tells You About Vintage Sizing
Let’s get real about the "vintage" tag. If you’re hunting for actual 70s pieces in thrift stores, you’re going to run into a massive wall: sizing inflation. A 1975 "Size 16" is closer to a modern 10 or 12. It’s frustrating. It’s disheartening. And it’s why most people shopping for plus size 70s attire eventually give up on true vintage and turn to modern "vintage-inspired" brands.
But here is the secret.
Look for "Stout" or "Half-Size" labels in vintage bins. These were the 1970s precursors to modern plus sizes. Brands like Lane Bryant were already established, but labels like Chubbette (a terrible name, we know) or Lady Devon catered specifically to larger frames with proportions that actually accounted for a bust and hips. These garments often featured "action backs"—tiny pleats at the shoulder blades—that allowed for movement without tearing the seams. Modern clothes rarely do this because it’s expensive to sew.
The Denim Revolution Was Lumpy
Denim in the 70s was a different beast. It didn't have 5% spandex. It was 100% cotton.
For plus-size folks, this meant "breaking in" jeans was a literal physical labor. You had to wear them in a bathtub to get them to shrink to your curves. Brands like Levi’s and Wrangler were the standards, but for the fashion-forward, the "Seafarer" bell bottoms—originally naval surplus—were the gold standard. They had a flat front and no back pockets, which created a very specific, streamlined look.
Today, if you want that look, you have to look for "power stretch" denim that mimics the weight of old-school 14oz denim but actually allows you to sit down. You want a flare that starts at the knee, not the thigh. If the flare starts too high, you lose that iconic 70s "fountain" silhouette.
Disco is the Exception, Not the Rule
When people think of plus size 70s attire, they immediately go to Saturday Night Fever. Sequins. Spandex. Halter tops.
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While disco was a huge cultural moment, it was only a sliver of what people actually wore. The "Boho" or "Peasant" look was far more prevalent for day-to-day life. Think Gunne Sax dresses. Jessica McClintock, the designer behind Gunne Sax, created these Victorian-revival dresses that featured empire waists and corset-style lacing.
These were a godsend for plus-size fashion. Why? Because the lacing allowed for a highly adjustable fit through the bodice. You could tighten or loosen it depending on your comfort level. The long, tiered skirts hid a multitude of "sins"—or, as we call them now, just "having legs." The aesthetic was soft, romantic, and utilized natural fibers like cotton voile and gauze. It was the antithesis of the plastic, sweaty disco vibe.
The Architecture of the 70s Shoe
You cannot talk about this era without talking about the platform.
For the plus-size community, 70s footwear was a revolution in comfort, believe it or not. Unlike the spindly stiletto of the 50s or the tiny kitten heel of the 60s, the 70s platform offered a wide base of support. We’re talking about 2-inch soles with a 4-inch block heel. This distributed weight much more evenly.
If you’re styling a look today, the shoe is the "anchor." Without a chunky heel, wide-leg trousers just look like you’re wearing oversized pajamas. You need that height to give the fabric room to swing. Real leather or suede is better than vegan alternatives here, as the weight of the shoe helps pull the hem of the pants down, keeping the silhouette crisp.
Why the 70s Silhouette Actually Works for Curvy Bodies
Designers like Halston understood something that modern "fast fashion" misses. They understood "bias cutting."
Cutting fabric on the bias (diagonally across the grain) allows woven fabric to stretch and skim the body like a knit. Halston’s caftans were legendary. A plus-size woman in a silk caftan isn't "hiding" her body; she’s occupying space with authority. It’s a power move.
The 70s was the first time "athleisure" started to peek through, too. Tracksuits in velour—think early Fila or even the Sears Roebuck catalogs—offered a level of comfort that hadn't been socially acceptable before. It wasn't about "slimming." It was about ease of movement.
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Don't Buy the "Costume" Version
If you want to actually look good in plus size 70s attire, stop shopping at party stores. Seriously.
Instead, look for these specific elements:
- The Pointed Collar: Often called a "butterfly collar." It should be large enough to sit over the lapels of a blazer.
- Earth Tones: If it’s neon, it’s probably 80s or a bad 70s parody. Think mustard, rust, avocado, and chocolate brown.
- The Rise: If the pants are "mid-rise," they aren't 70s. You want the button to hit your belly button or higher.
The 70s was a decade of transition. It moved from the rigid structure of the mid-century to the experimental excess of the 80s. For plus-size people, it was a rare window where "natural" was the trend. Natural hair, natural curves, natural fabrics.
Actionable Steps for Building a 70s Wardrobe
To get started, don't try to buy a whole outfit at once. It’ll look like a costume.
- Start with the "Hero" Piece: Find one pair of high-quality, high-waisted wide-leg jeans. Brands like Warp + Weft or Universal Standard often release cuts that mimic the 70s "Farrah" vibe but with modern comfort.
- Hunt for "True" Vintage Accessories: Belts and bags are size-agnostic. A massive brass-buckle leather belt or a macramé shoulder bag can "70s-ify" a basic modern outfit instantly.
- Invest in a Tailor: If you find a vintage 70s maxi dress that’s a size too small in the bust but fits everywhere else, a tailor can often add "gussets" (small triangles of matching fabric) under the arms to give you the room you need.
- The "Third Piece" Rule: In the 70s, an outfit wasn't finished without a third piece. A vest, a long cardigan, or a denim jacket. For plus sizes, a long-line vest (duster length) is incredible for creating a vertical line that complements the wide-leg bottoms.
The 1970s wasn't a perfect era for size inclusivity—let’s be honest, the fashion industry has always been a bit of a nightmare—but the shapes of the 70s are some of the most forgiving and celebratory for a plus-size frame. It’s about taking up space, wearing bold prints, and refusing to be invisible.
Next time you're out, look for a rust-colored wrap dress. Put it on. You'll see exactly what I mean. The way the fabric moves when you walk? That’s the real 70s. It wasn't about the clothes being "flattering" in the way we use that word now (which usually just means "looking thinner"). It was about the clothes being dramatic. And honestly, we could all use a little more drama in our wardrobes.
Forget the rules about "horizontal stripes" or "bright colors." The 70s threw those out the window, and so should you. Find a bold, geometric print in a knit fabric, pair it with a platform boot, and own the room. That’s the most authentic 70s accessory there is: the confidence to be seen.