You know the look. That iconic side stripe—originally called the "jazz stripe"—streaking across a low-top suede and canvas frame. It’s been a staple since 1977. But if you’ve walked into a skate shop lately, or even just browsed the Vans website, you’ve probably noticed something confusing. There isn’t just one Old Skool anymore. There are the ones that cost $70, and then there are the "premium" versions that push closer to $100 or more.
Is it a scam? Honestly, I used to think so. I figured canvas is canvas. I was wrong.
When we talk about premium Old Skool Vans today, we’re usually talking about two specific lines: the Vans Skateboarding (formerly Pro Skate) and the Vans Premium (which recently replaced the beloved Vault by Vans line). These aren't just the same shoes with a higher price tag slapped on. They are fundamentally different builds. If you’re tired of your heels wearing through or the rubber foxing peeling away from the canvas after three months of walking, the premium versions are the only ones worth your money.
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The Vault is Dead, Long Live Vans Premium
For years, sneakerheads and fashion enthusiasts chased the "Vault by Vans" label. It was the gold standard. Vaults used original patterns from the 60s and 70s, meaning the toe caps were shorter and the overall silhouette was sleeker. But in 2023, Vans decided to sunset the Vault line, causing a minor panic in the streetwear community.
They replaced it with the Vans Premium collection.
It’s a bit of a rebranding exercise, sure, but the quality remained high. The "Premium" line focuses specifically on the Old Skool 36. The "36" is the original style number for the shoe. When you buy these, you're getting a higher ounce canvas—usually 8oz or 10oz compared to the flimsy stuff on the core models. It feels stiff at first. It might even give you a blister on the first day. But that weight is exactly what prevents the shoe from looking like a saggy mess after a month.
The foxing tape—the rubber wrap around the shoe—is also different on the premium models. It’s often "high-gloss" or "off-white," mimicking the way rubber looked before modern mass production took over. More importantly, it’s usually vulcanized at a higher temperature or with a better resin, which means less "delamination." That’s the annoying gap that forms right where your foot bends.
Why Your Feet Actually Hate the Cheap Ones
Let’s be real: standard Vans are flat. They have zero arch support. If you walk 10,000 steps in a pair of base-model Old Skools, your lower back will let you know by 6:00 PM.
This is where the premium tier earns its keep.
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The Vans Skate Old Skool (the ones with the little checkerboard tag near the laces) uses something called PopCush. It’s a proprietary foam that’s surprisingly thick. Unlike the standard foam that bottoms out and stays flat, PopCush actually snaps back. It was designed for skaters landing 10-stair sets, but for those of us just commuting to work, it feels like a dream.
Then there’s the Sola Foam ADC used in some of the newer Premium 36 builds. It’s an anti-fatigue material. Vans claims it’s bio-based, which is a nice nod to sustainability, but the real win is the impact absorption. You aren't just standing on a piece of rubber and a thin strip of glue anymore.
Real Talk on the "Duracap"
If you look at the premium skate versions, you'll see a mention of Duracap. Most people ignore this. Don't.
It’s a reinforced rubber underlay in high-wear areas. Even if you don't skate, you've probably noticed your big toe eventually poking through the canvas of your shoes. Duracap is the barrier that prevents that. It’s basically a shoe inside a shoe. It makes the upper feel slightly thicker, but it triples the lifespan of the sneaker.
The Aesthetic Nuance Most People Miss
The cheap Old Skools look... fine. But they look like mall shoes.
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Premium Old Skools have a "last" (the foot shape the shoe is built around) that is much more refined. The toe box is flatter. On the standard model, the toe often curves upward like a banana. It looks bulky. The premium versions stay closer to the ground.
Also, look at the stitching. On the premium pairs, the stitch count per inch is higher. The thread is thicker. It gives the shoe a structural integrity that’s visible to the naked eye. It’s the difference between a fast-fashion t-shirt and a heavy-weight loopwheel cotton tee. One is a disposable garment; the other is a piece of gear.
Does Suede Quality Really Matter?
Yes. It really does.
Base-model Vans use a very thin "split" suede. It’s basically the bottom layer of the hide that’s been sanded down. It feels fuzzy, but it’s fragile. If it gets wet once, it gets crunchy.
The Premium and Skate lines use a much higher grade of cow suede. It’s oilier, denser, and handles scuffs better. When you look at a pair of Premium Old Skools in "Marshmallow" or "Raven" black, you can see the grain. It’s not just a flat, matte surface. It has depth.
It Isn't All Sunshine and Rainbows
I'm not going to sit here and tell you these are perfect. There are trade-offs.
- The Weight: Premium Vans are heavy. Between the thicker canvas, the Duracap, and the heavy-duty rubber, they weigh significantly more than the "ComfyCush" or standard versions. If you like a feather-light shoe, you’ll hate these.
- Break-in Time: You cannot wear premium Old Skools to a music festival straight out of the box. You will bleed. The canvas is stiff, and the heel counter is rigid. They need a solid week of "around the house" wear to soften up.
- Price Fluctuations: Since Vans rebranded Vault to Premium, pricing has been all over the map. You might find a pair for $90, or you might see a boutique charging $120 for a specific colorway.
The "Anaheim Factory" Confusion
You might still find "Anaheim Factory" models in some stores. These were a middle-ground tier that sat between the cheap stuff and the Vault stuff. They were meant to mimic the shoes made in the original Anaheim, California factory.
They are great. If you see them on a clearance rack, buy them. They use 10oz canvas and have the "UltraCush" insole, which is slightly less bouncy than PopCush but way better than the standard flat sole. However, Vans is phasing these out in favor of the "Premium" branding, so they're becoming harder to find.
How to Spot the Real Deal
When you’re shopping, don't just look at the price. Look for these specific markers to ensure you’re getting the premium build:
- The Insole: If it’s removable and thick, it’s a Skate/Premium model. If it’s glued down and paper-thin, it’s the base model.
- The Side Stripe: On premium models, this is often a thicker cut of leather rather than a thin synthetic strip.
- The Tongue Straps: Many premium versions (especially the Skate line) have internal elastic straps that keep the tongue centered. It makes the shoe feel much more "locked in" on your foot.
- The Heel Tag: Look for the "Off The Wall" logo. On some premium models, it’s a 3D molded rubber tag rather than a flat print.
Final Verdict on Value
If you buy a $70 pair of Old Skools and wear them every day, they will likely look trashed in six months. The sole will be smooth, and the canvas will have holes.
If you spend $95 on the Premium or Skate version, they will easily last a year or more. The outsole rubber (SickStick) is a newer compound that’s much more abrasion-resistant. You’re paying about 30% more for a shoe that lasts 100% longer. That’s just basic math.
Plus, they just look better with age. Cheap canvas frays in a way that looks messy. High-grade canvas fades and softens like a good pair of raw denim.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check the Label: Look for "Premium 36" or "Skate Old Skool" specifically. Avoid any model that feels suspiciously light or has a glued-in, flat insole.
- Size Up Slightly: Because of the thicker PopCush insole, premium Vans often feel tighter than the basics. Consider going up a half size if you have a wider foot.
- Ditch the "Standard" White: If you want that premium look, go for "Marshmallow" or "Antique White." The slightly yellowed rubber looks far more intentional and high-end than the stark, bright white of the mass-market pairs.
- Invest in a Suede Brush: Since you're paying for better leather, spend $10 on a crepe brush. It’ll keep the premium suede from "balding" after it gets dusty or wet.