You’ve probably heard the rumors. In Beijing, there is a saying that "one Prince Gong Mansion equals half the history of the Qing Dynasty." It sounds like marketing fluff until you actually stand in front of the 9,999 and a half rooms (the half-room being a quirk to avoid outdoing the Emperor's 10,000).
Honestly, while the Forbidden City is massive and impressive, it can feel like a cold, empty museum. Prince Gong Mansion, or Gong Wang Fu, feels alive. It’s got a weird, dark energy. This was the home of the richest—and most corrupt—man in human history.
The Corrupt Genius Who Built a Kingdom
Most people think this place was always a "Prince's" mansion. It wasn't. It was built in 1777 by Heshen. Think of Heshen as the ultimate "fixer" for the Qianlong Emperor. He was handsome, incredibly smart, and fundamentally greedy.
When the next Emperor, Jiaqing, finally arrested him in 1799, they found his personal wealth was roughly 800 million ounces of silver. To put that in perspective, that was more than 15 years of the entire Qing Empire’s total tax revenue. Basically, Heshen was richer than the government he worked for.
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His house reflected that. He didn't just build a mansion; he built a middle finger to imperial protocol. He used materials like nanmu wood, which was strictly reserved for the Emperor. He even mimicked the layout of the Forbidden City’s private quarters. It’s no wonder they forced him to commit suicide as soon as his protector died.
Why the Bats?
If you walk through the gardens today, you’ll notice something kind of creepy. Bats. Not real ones (usually), but carvings of them everywhere. Thousands of them.
In Chinese culture, the word for bat (fu) sounds exactly like the word for "fortune." Heshen was obsessed with this. He didn't want just a little luck; he wanted it all.
The "Fu" Stele: The Mansion's Secret Weapon
The crown jewel of Prince Gong Mansion is the Secret Fu Stele. It’s hidden in a cave under a man-made hill designed to look like a dragon.
- The Calligraphy: It was written by the Kangxi Emperor, who was famous for rarely giving out his handwriting.
- The Design: If you look closely at the character Fu on the stone, it’s written in a way that actually contains several other characters: shou (longevity), tian (land), cai (wealth), and zi (children).
- The Curse: Legend has it that Heshen "stole" this stone from the palace. He built his garden around it so that it could never be moved without breaking the "dragon's back" of the hill.
The Jiaqing Emperor wanted it back, but he was too superstitious to destroy the hill to get it. So, the stone stayed. To this day, you’ll see lines of tourists waiting to rub their hands over the "Fu" character for a bit of luck. Just be ready to wait—honestly, the line is often an hour long during peak season.
The Western Gate and the Grand Theater
The mansion is a weird mix of styles. You’ll be walking through a traditional Chinese courtyard and suddenly hit a Western-style marble gate. It looks like something out of a Roman villa. Prince Gong, who took over the mansion later in the 1800s, was China's first "foreign minister" of sorts. He was trying to modernize, and his house shows that identity crisis.
Then there’s the Grand Theater House. It is one of the most beautiful indoor wooden theaters in China. No nails. Just perfect joinery. They used to hang large jars of water under the stage to act as a natural amplifier for the Peking Opera singers. Even today, the acoustics are better than some modern concert halls.
The Reality of Visiting in 2026
Don't just show up. You will be turned away.
Booking is mandatory. You need to use the official WeChat mini-program or a third-party site like Trip.com. Tickets are usually released 7 to 9 days in advance. If you’re going in the summer, they sell out in minutes.
- Cost: Around 40 RMB (roughly $6 USD).
- Location: It's right in the Shichahai area.
- Pro Tip: Go early. The mansion opens at 8:30 AM. By 10:30 AM, the tour groups with their loud megaphones arrive, and the "tranquil garden" vibe evaporates instantly.
One thing that’s changed recently: the museum has gotten way better at English signage. You don't necessarily need a guide, though having one helps you spot the specific "corrupt" architectural flourishes that look like normal buildings to the untrained eye.
Is it actually "Cursed"?
Locals sometimes joke about the "bad luck" of the mansion. Heshen was executed. Prince Gong’s descendants eventually went broke and had to mortgage the property to a Catholic order (the Benedictines). It’s been a university, an air conditioning factory, and a government office.
But honestly? Standing in the Bat Pond garden, watching the light hit the Taihu rocks, it doesn't feel cursed. It feels like a high-stakes drama frozen in wood and stone.
Practical Steps for Your Visit:
- Download WeChat: Even if you don't use it for Chat, you'll need the "Prince Kung's Palace Museum" mini-program for the map and ticket verification.
- Pair it with Hutongs: The mansion is surrounded by the best-preserved hutongs in Beijing. Rent a bike afterwards and get lost in the alleys of Shichahai.
- Find the 99 and a half rooms: Look for the Houzhao Lou (Back-viewing Building). It’s a 160-meter-long two-story building with unique window shapes. Each window design told Heshen's servants exactly what kind of treasure was stored in that specific room. It was the world's most beautiful filing cabinet.
Check the weather before you go. The garden is mostly outdoors, and Beijing’s wind in the winter is no joke. If it’s snowing, though? It’s easily the most beautiful spot in the city.