You’re hungry. You’ve got a tray of frozen lasagna or maybe a batch of cookie dough ready to go. You turn the dial, you hear the clicks or see the digital display glow, and then… nothing. No heat. No smell of gas. Just a cold, dark cavern of a kitchen appliance. Most people immediately panic and start Googling the cost of a new stove. Honestly, though? It’s probably just the ignitor. Replacing a gas oven ignitor is one of those DIY tasks that sounds terrifyingly technical but is actually about as difficult as assembling a piece of flat-pack furniture.
Maybe easier.
Here is the thing: ignitors are consumable parts. They aren't meant to last forever. They are essentially high-resistance heaters. When electricity flows through them, they glow white-hot—reaching temperatures over $2500°F$—to ignite the gas. Over years of thermal expansion and contraction, the silicon carbide or silicon nitride material simply fatigues and snaps. It’s not your fault. It’s just physics.
Why your oven is lying to you
Most modern gas ovens use a "glow bar" ignitor. It’s a safety feature. The gas valve is designed to stay shut unless it detects a specific electrical draw from the ignitor. If the ignitor is cracked or worn out, it won't pull enough amps. The valve stays closed. No fire. No dinner.
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Sometimes the ignitor still glows orange. This is the biggest trap for homeowners. You peek through the little holes in the oven floor, see a faint orange light, and assume the ignitor is fine. It isn't. A weak ignitor can glow but fail to reach the temperature necessary to open the gas safety valve. If your oven takes twenty minutes to preheat to $350°F$ or if you hear the gas "whoosh" and then click off repeatedly, your ignitor is basically on life support.
Spotting the "Flashover"
If you take the ignitor out and look closely under a bright light, you might see a tiny, microscopic crack. That’s the culprit. In some cases, you’ll see a white or gray scorched area. That's where the element literally burned itself out. According to repair data from platforms like RepairClinic and AppliancePartsPros, the ignitor is the number one failure point in gas ranges from brands like GE, Whirlpool, and Frigidaire.
Getting the right part is half the battle
Don't just buy the cheapest one on a random marketplace. Seriously. There are two main types: flat ignitors and round ignitors. They are not interchangeable. If your oven uses a flat one and you try to shove a round one in there, you’re going to have a bad time.
You need your model number. It's usually on a metal plate inside the storage drawer or around the door frame. Use that exact number. Buying an "universal" ignitor is a gamble because the wire connectors might not match, forcing you to cut and splice wires using porcelain wire nuts. If you aren't comfortable with electrical splicing, get the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part that plugs right in.
The actual teardown
First rule: unplug it.
I know, it seems obvious. But you’re dealing with $120V$ of electricity and a gas line. You don't necessarily need to turn off the gas if you're just swapping the ignitor, but if it makes you feel safer, hit the shut-off valve behind the stove.
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Step 1: Clearing the deck
Remove the oven racks. Then, look at the floor of the oven. Usually, there are two screws at the back or a couple of thumb screws. Remove the floor panel. Underneath that, you’ll see the metal flame spreader—a long, V-shaped piece of metal over the burner tube. Take that off too.
Step 2: Finding the wires
The ignitor is screwed directly onto the burner tube. Follow the two wires coming off it. They usually disappear through a hole in the back of the oven cavity. This is where it gets annoying. On some models, you have to remove the back panel of the stove to unplug the plastic connector. On others, you can gently pull the wires through the hole until the plug pops out into the oven.
Don't yank. If you pull too hard and the connector gets stuck behind the insulation, you’re going to spend the next hour fishing for it with a coat hanger.
Step 3: The delicate swap
The most important thing to remember: Never touch the black element of the new ignitor with your bare fingers. Your skin carries oils. When that ignitor hits $2000+°F$, those oils create a hot spot that will cause the element to crack prematurely. It’s exactly like handling a halogen headlight bulb. Wear gloves or hold it strictly by the metal bracket.
Unscrew the old one. Screw in the new one. Plug it back in.
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The "While You Are In There" checklist
Since you’ve already gutted your oven, look at the burner tube. Are the little holes clogged with spilled lasagna or burnt cheese? Take a stiff brush or a needle and clear them out. A clogged burner leads to uneven heating and that weird "yellow flame" that leaves soot on your pans.
A healthy gas flame should be crisp and blue. If it’s dancing or tipped with yellow, your air-to-gas mixture is off, or the burner is dirty.
Is it ever NOT the ignitor?
Occasionally, yeah. If you replace the ignitor and still nothing happens, you might be looking at a failed spark module (on older models) or a blown thermal fuse. But honestly? About 90% of the time, the ignitor is the "wear item" that gave up the ghost.
Some people try to test ignitors with a multimeter. If you have one, you’re looking for resistance. Set it to ohms. If you get "OL" (Open Loop) or infinite resistance, the element is broken internally. A good flat ignitor should typically read between $40$ and $400$ ohms depending on the brand.
Actionable steps for a successful fix
- Verify the failure: If the oven stays cold but the stove-top burners work fine, the gas supply is okay. It’s almost certainly the ignitor.
- Locate the model sticker: Check the door frame or the drawer. Snap a photo of it.
- Order the exact match: Search for "[Model Number] oven ignitor." Look for the plug that matches yours to avoid wire-stripping.
- Prepare the workspace: Get a $1/4$-inch nut driver and a Phillips head screwdriver. That’s usually all you need.
- Test before reassembling: Once the new ignitor is plugged in, turn the oven on for just five seconds. If it starts glowing bright white/yellow, turn it off immediately. You’ve succeeded.
- Reinstall the shields: Put the flame spreader and oven floor back exactly how they were. If they are crooked, they can deflect heat and melt your door seal.
Replacing a gas oven ignitor is a $30$ to $80$ dollar fix if you do it yourself. If you call a pro, you’re looking at a $150$ service call plus a marked-up part price, easily hitting $300$. Save that money for better groceries. Once you've done this once, you'll realize that most appliance "repairs" are just basic component swaps that don't require a degree in engineering.
Keep the area clean, don't touch the element, and make sure those wire connections are tight. Your oven will be back to baking perfectly within thirty minutes.