If you tell a Manhattanite you’re heading to Staten Island NY county, they’ll probably ask if you have your passport. It’s the "Forgotten Borough." People joke about it constantly. But honestly, most of those people have never stepped foot off the ferry terminal. They ride the boat for the free view of the Statue of Liberty, turn around, and go right back to Whitehall Street. They’re missing the actual story of Richmond County.
Richmond County is the formal name for the borough, and it’s a weird, beautiful, frustrating, and incredibly green slice of New York City. It doesn't feel like the rest of the city. It feels like a mix of a Jersey suburb, a coastal New England town, and a gritty industrial hub. It’s the only borough that’s geographically closer to New Jersey than the rest of New York. That proximity defines everything from the accents to the politics.
The Identity Crisis of Richmond County
Most people don't realize that Staten Island is the only borough not connected to the New York City subway system. Think about that for a second. You have nearly half a million people living in a major global metropolis, yet they rely on a single railway—the Staten Island Railway (SIR)—that doesn't even go to the other boroughs. You have to take a boat or a bus over a bridge. It creates this sense of isolation. This isolation has preserved things that have been gentrified out of existence elsewhere.
The Greenbelt and the Unexpected Wild
Staten Island is actually the "Greenest Borough." While Brooklyn and Queens are fighting over every square inch of concrete, Staten Island NY county maintains the Greenbelt. We’re talking over 2,800 acres of contiguous public parkland. It’s massive. You can literally get lost in the woods in the middle of New York City.
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High Rock Park is a standout here. It’s a literal quiet zone. No sirens. No hum of the subway. Just swamp cabbage and hardwood forests. It’s a National Natural Landmark. If you’re into hiking, the yellow trail gives you a legitimate workout. You’ll forget you’re in the most densely populated city in America. It’s wild.
What People Get Wrong About the History
People think the island was just farmland until the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge opened in 1964. That’s a huge oversimplification.
Before the bridge, the island was a collection of distinct villages. You had Tottenville at the southern tip, which felt like a maritime town. You had St. George, the civic center. The Conference House in Tottenville is where a 1776 peace conference happened during the Revolutionary War. Lord Howe met with John Adams and Benjamin Franklin. They tried to stop the war before it got even bloodier. It didn't work, obviously, but the house is still there. It’s a massive piece of American history tucked away at the end of Hylan Boulevard.
Then there’s the darker history. The Fresh Kills Landfill. For decades, it was the largest man-made structure in the world. Larger than the Great Wall of China. It was a literal mountain of trash. But here’s the kicker: it’s currently being transformed into Freshkills Park. It’s one of the most ambitious land-reclamation projects on the planet. It’s three times the size of Central Park. By the time it’s finished in the mid-2030s, it will be a sprawling ecosystem of wetlands and meadows.
The Food Scene is Not Just Pizza
Okay, the pizza is incredible. Joe & Pat’s on Victory Blvd is legendary for its thin crust. Denino’s in Port Richmond is a rite of passage. If you go to Denino’s, you get the thin-crust sausage pie and then walk across the street to Ralph’s Famous Italian Ices. That’s the Staten Island starter pack.
But the real secret of Staten Island NY county is the Sri Lankan food.
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Staten Island has one of the largest Sri Lankan populations outside of Sri Lanka. Specifically in the Tompkinsville and Stapleton neighborhoods.
- Lakruwana: This place is a museum. The interior is covered in ornate carvings and statues. The weekend buffet is the move. You get black pork curry, red rice, and dhal. It’s spicy, authentic, and nothing like what you find in Manhattan.
- New Asha: It’s a smaller, hole-in-the-wall spot. Try the egg hoppers (crepes made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk).
There’s also an incredible Mexican corridor on Port Richmond Avenue. It’s not "fusion." It’s real. Hand-pressed tortillas and al pastor that rivals anything in Sunset Park or Corona.
The Logistics of Living in the "Forgotten Borough"
If you're looking at Staten Island NY county from a real estate perspective, it's a different beast. You aren't buying a 400-square-foot studio. You’re buying a semi-attached home with a driveway.
The North Shore is the most "urban" part. It’s where the ferry is. It’s more diverse, more walkable, and closer to the city. The South Shore is where things get suburban. Big houses, lawns, and a very distinct "Old New York" vibe.
Transportation remains the biggest hurdle. The Verrazzano Bridge toll is high. The Staten Island Expressway is frequently ranked as one of the most congested roads in the country. Locals call it "The Parking Lot." If you’re commuting to Manhattan, you’re looking at a 60 to 90-minute trek, depending on how the ferry and the buses align. It’s a grind.
Cultural Landmarks You Actually Need to See
Forget the Empire Outlets for a second. If you want the soul of the island, go to Snug Harbor Cultural Center & Botanical Garden.
It was originally a home for "aged, decrepit and worn-out sailors." Now, it’s a massive 83-acre campus. The Greek Revival buildings are stunning. Inside, there’s the New York Chinese Scholar’s Garden. It’s one of only two authentic scholar’s gardens built in the United States. All the architectural components were fabricated in Suzhou, China. It’s incredibly peaceful.
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Then there’s the Tibetan Museum. Jacques Marchais Museum of Tibetan Art. It’s built into a hillside and looks like a Tibetan mountain monastery. It was founded by a woman who never actually went to Tibet, which is a wild fact in itself, but her collection was world-class. Even the Dalai Lama has visited.
The Political and Social Landscape
You can't talk about Staten Island NY county without mentioning its politics. It’s the red outlier in a deep blue city. It’s home to a massive number of NYPD officers, firefighters, and sanitation workers. There is a deep-seated pride in civil service here.
There’s also a long-running secession movement. Every few years, someone brings up the idea of Staten Island leaving NYC to become its own city. In 1993, residents actually voted to secede, but the state assembly blocked it. It stems from a feeling that the island pays more in taxes than it gets back in services. Whether you agree or not, that "us against the world" mentality is baked into the culture.
Realities of the 2020s: Development and Resilience
The North Shore is changing fast. The "St. George Waterfront" has seen huge investments. Some of it has stalled—the New York Wheel was supposed to be a giant Ferris wheel that never quite happened—but the area is still evolving.
Climate change is a huge factor here too. Hurricane Sandy devastated the East Shore in 2012. Neighborhoods like Oakwood Beach were so badly hit that the state actually bought out homeowners to return the land to nature as a buffer against future storms. You can walk through these "ghost neighborhoods" today. It’s a sobering reminder of the island’s vulnerability as a coastal community.
Actionable Insights for Visiting or Moving to Staten Island
If you're actually going to explore Staten Island NY county, don't just wing it. It's too big and the transit is too localized.
- The Ferry Strategy: The Staten Island Ferry runs 24/7 and it’s free. Don’t stand at the back with the tourists. Go to the front or the side for the breeze. If you’re heading to a game at the Richmond County Bank Ballpark (now Staten Island University Hospital Community Park), the stadium is a 5-minute walk from the terminal.
- The SIRT: The train is free once you’re past the St. George and Tompkinsville stops. It’s a great way to see the various "towns" like Great Kills or New Dorp.
- Driving is necessary: Unless you stay on the North Shore, you need a car. There’s no way around it. Uber and Lyft exist, but they get expensive fast because of the distances involved.
- Check the tide: If you go to Conference House Park, the beach is rocky but great for beachcombing. Just watch the tide so you don't get stuck on a jetty.
- Museum pass: Many of the island's cultural spots are part of the "Staten Island Museum Trail." Look for joint tickets if you’re planning to do Snug Harbor and the Staten Island Museum on the same weekend.
Richmond County isn't trying to be Brooklyn. It isn't trying to be Manhattan. It’s a place of contradictions—intense local loyalty, vast green spaces, and a heavy industrial history. It’s New York City’s suburb, its park, and its rebel outpost all at once. Whether you're there for the Sri Lankan curry or a hike in the Greenbelt, it’s a place that rewards people who actually take the time to look. Residents here are tough, opinionated, and surprisingly welcoming if you aren't just there to take a photo of the bridge and leave.
Practical Next Steps
If you want to experience the island properly, start with a Saturday morning trip. Take the ferry before 10:00 AM. Grab a bus to Snug Harbor. Spend two hours in the Chinese Scholar’s Garden. Take a quick Uber to Tompkinsville for a Sri Lankan lunch at Lakruwana. Then, take the SIRT down to Tottenville to see the sunset at the Conference House. It’s a full day, and you’ll see more of the "real" New York than most people see in a year.